pillguy's 4runner build (with pics)

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Idler pulley and PS pump

So, below is what my idler pulley looked like
AC_idl_04.webp
Had to order a new pulley from Toyota, the new ones are not rebuildable so hang on to your old ones.
See here

I am going to order a spare bearing from somewhere and then rebuild my old one.AC_idl_07.webp
and here is repair in processAC_idl_08.webp
This was a real bear as I did not pull my plates off the bottom of the engine. Figured it would take too much time that way.
AC_idl_07.webp
AC_idl_04.webp
AC_idl_08.webp
 
The Dracula PS pump tranfusion

So while I was at it and I knew the fluid was pretty nasty in the PS pump so I followed the yota tech procedure to change it.
Lab coat on.. and then begin procedure
loosen PS pump the hard way
AC_idl_09.webp
The :princess: helped me with running the starter (EFI fuse pulled) and turning wheel while I poured in fluid. note the new fluid (red) draining out in the bypass i created.
AC_idl_10.webp
Worked like a charm. Now I need to run the engine and get any bubbles out as we do not want the PS steering system to get the "bends"

Oh, finally got around to changing out my O2 (front sensor). Another Pain to get at, but now it is done.

Well, now I will still be comfy as we wheel in the 95 degree temps
AC_idl_09.webp
AC_idl_10.webp
 
Andrew--you got that bumper done yet. wait--do this and you dont need one :flipoff2:

can you say tall

2011-03-05_15-34-33_128.jpg
 
That is a bit too lifted for me.
Bumper not done yet... Ugh. Projects and work have been getting in the way.
THought I was going to have a some free time yesterday and bamm:bang: one of the sprinkler pipes busted which ends up causing no water pressure in the house.
So I am working on that yesterday and part of today along with work work..
I need a wheeling break
 
my dang brakes again

:bang:Well hello all, been a while since I posted on my build thread. I had notices after our last outing my rear brakes were acting up again and sure enough, I could not lock them up not matter how hard I tried.
Went through bleeding the system again, readjusting the brakes and still no lockup...
So I ordered genuine toyota shoes and got ready to put them on last weekend in the 100* heat and looked at my left wheel cylinder and said to myself...
why does it look like it might be leaking? and I pried off the boot and sure enough those ****py SnaNapa brake cylinders were leaking slowly.
P1010874.webp
THis is the second one
P1010875.webp
and I have had it, so I got a deal on factory new for $42 a piece.
Cannot wait to get them in and see if that makes a difference.
I am really getting discouraged that I cannot drive my truck.
P1010875.webp
P1010874.webp
 
brake update

Well, the rears have been completely replaced, brand new everything and still I cannot stop.
I started to pull the fronts to replace the pads and think I may have found the issue. frozen or sticking pistons within my calipers.
waTCH the video and let me know what you think...
 
hmmm. brake system are not that complex. dunno about the runner series but first things first, 1) is it a dual system?, meaning rears are fed fluid separately from the MC via its own brake line going to the rear? 2) are they bled properly? double and then triple check your bleeding sequence. 3) Is the proportioning valve bled and functioning properly? 4) since you've already replaced the rear cylinders I'm thinking it's the Master Cylinder, if it's bad and your system is a dual system it could very well be the issue. DO NOT do a rebuilt if you go to replace!!!!! wwwaaaayyyy ttooooo many problems with rebuilt MCs. resist the temptation!!!!!!

could not find an online version but i did find one you can download. I'll let you dig through but this where i found it: Toyota Tacoma/ 4Runner/ Tundra/ FJ Cruiser Factory Service Manual Page

now, all that said the ABS system may blow all that out of the water.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL...pdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/br/braflu/blee.pdf
 
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Andrew,
I don't think you have frozen pistons based on the video. They were all pushed in at the start and all eventually came out with multiple pumps. My first thought is air trapped in the system. I think Ted is right on in recommending that you follow up with research on bleeding your system (in case it has some specific nuances to your set up).

Good luck and be happy that your :princess: is willing to pump the pedal to help you (mine will not so I rely on the kids for help).
 
Larry,

Joseph helped me bled the system recently and I have done it multiple times, all in the right sequence. Just rebled when I put on the rear cylinders. That is why I think maybe master cylinder as I should have plenty of brake. I held off on putting on the new toyota pads yesterday as I was rather concerned about the pistons.
There is a possibility that the pads are shot, even with 40% of overall pad left. THere was some interesting shinny flakes dark copper looking that came off the pad.
I had resanded the surface a while back and put them back on.

Ugh!!
 
one other thought

Back when we replaced the rear axle a few years ago, I had to bleed the brakes. I did not put a block of wood under the pedal at that time to prevent it from being pushed all the way to the floor.
Could I have ruined the MC front seal by doing this?
 
pillguy said:
Larry,
There is a possibility that the pads are shot, even with 40% of overall pad left.

Ugh!!
Click to expand...

highly doubt the pads are the issue, looks like you're not getting a complete compression on the pistons which is a hydraulic problem

never heard of the wood block technique much less done it, sounds like witch craft to me. We were talking about it today and it sounds like if you should bleed the ABS system at the MC then bleed the rest.

Still betting a MC
 
pillguy said:
Back when we replaced the rear axle a few years ago, I had to bleed the brakes. I did not put a block of wood under the pedal at that time to prevent it from being pushed all the way to the floor.
Could I have ruined the MC front seal by doing this?
Click to expand...

tkinze said:
Still betting a MC
Click to expand...

Andrew,
Re-watched your video and the way the pistons 'popped' out is still leading me to believe that you have trapped air in your system. The MC may very well be bad, but try bleeding your complete system again before replacing the MC. As Ted recommended, start bleeding with the MC. If your MC is not bleed properly/completely, you are not going to be able to bleed the air out of the lines.

Keep the progress reports coming.
 
dumb question, but how do you bleed a master cylinder? I thought air flowed right through the system.

A
 
Sometimes it can get hung-up in the master cylinder (or so I'm told). Assuming the master is already installed, you need to unhook the brake lines. Install old pieces of brakeline and bend them back around to the reservoir cup. With the reservoir topped-off with brake fluid, pump the brakes a few times. Finally, re-install the brake lines without spilling too much fluid.

I kinda think your problems are the proportioning valve, but this is worth a shot.
 
pillguy said:
dumb question, but how do you bleed a master cylinder? I thought air flowed right through the system.

A
Click to expand...

I am not sure of the correct way because I replaced mine at Crawford Camp a few years back during GSMTR and bled it while it was installed.

What I did was have a friend pump the brake and hold it, then I loosened the lines at the MC. My thought was to give positive indication that the MC was pushing fluid. This was messing and tedious. As I recall, it took a number of tries before I got any fluid out of the MC. Once I got strong evidence that the MC was pushing fluid strongly, I bled the lines/cylinders as usual.
 
Larry has the right idea. Most people start by bench bleeding it, that is bleed it before actual installation. From what little I've read about the ABS MC they can be more painful that mine or Larry's (70) MC due to all of the electronics. Google will be your friend here and also check the link for FSM I posted earlier, i thought there were instructions in there.
 
Larry, Ted Trevor

Thanks for info. I did not realize this. :bang:
I must have gotten air in the system.
Ok so now it sounds like I need to bleed the master cylinder and then hook it back up and bleed the system again?
I read the link you gave me but it is a fsm for 2001 and later. I do not have that type of master cylinder.
I will check one of my other links

Thanks guys I will let you know status.
 
yes, bleed MC first, obviously bleeding it will only work IF the MC is good. If the MC is bad you can bleed till next summer and it still aint gonna work, just food for thought.
 
I orders a master cyl rebuild kit along with the caliper rebuild kit so I am going to rebuild both and learn something in the process. Have been always wanting to do this for a while.
I also found this post of how to bench bleed the master clutch cylinder.
I am assuming this is what Larry, Ted, and Trevor were mentioning (similar to Larry's emergency option).

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/156411-bench-bleed-clutch-master-cylinder.html
looks like I got some work :wrench::wrench:cut out for me when I get back from San Diego....
 
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