PHH (1 Viewer)

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>> we're all just a bunch of paranoyed overprepared fools carrying around more odd spare parts than my local dealer <<

You got that right considering the research and effort spent on exactly the right hose and clamps. It's total and complete refinement pushed to the limits. :cheers:
 
Chris_Geiger said:
...
Exactly what tool did Toyota have in mind to remove the bolt on the back of the motor?
...
Click to expand...

I don't know what Toyota had in mind, but I removed the lower bolt by using a 1/4 drive socket wrench.
 
Sheesh folks... Chris offered up a viable solution to a difficult problem and he gets crapped on for it...

Mine started leaking the other night :mad: , so I'll be doing mine this evening while thinking about our Floridian IH8MUD friends who are receiving a severe pounding tonight...
 
Replaced my PHH yesterday and all the advice on the FAQ was used and invaluable in getting the PITA servicing done. As a novice I wanted to submit my two cents on the job. Taking the top bolt off of the tube going into the block was critical, its near the rear of the block and accessable from the top of the engine compartment. I used silcone tubing that I could only find from a Peterbilt parts distributors, but most big rig truck dealers appear to carry silicone. Pliers or vise grips to rip out the cotter pin clamp coming from the metal tube appear to be the only way for me to get that clamp off, also using a sharp box cutter to remove the rubber hose is a good recommendation. Once the old stuff was out my main difficultly was aligning the metal tube up with the engine block orifice to push the silicone tubing on. Putting the silicone tubing in boiling water and KY jelly makes it more manageble. The main tool that I found that worked best for this step was a long piece of PVC pipe cut to lenght and padded a little on the front with tape to use leverage and properly align the metal downtube and more importantly get enough leverage to push the silicone tubing from the metal downtube onto the engine block tube. The PVC pipe made this jobe a hell of a lot easier and I recommend it if you find that you are too big or too tired to get enough leverage to align and push the tubing on to the engine block orifice. I want to thank everyone for their advice, I would have never had the confidence with out their writeups to do this on my own.
 
Thanks for adding the information to your post on the year....

DougM
 
lkj;lkj
 
otis22 said:
Replaced my PHH yesterday and all the advice on the FAQ was used and invaluable in getting the PITA servicing done. As a novice I wanted to submit my two cents on the job. Taking the top bolt off of the tube going into the block was critical, its near the rear of the block and accessable from the top of the engine compartment. I used silcone tubing that I could only find from a Peterbilt parts distributors, but most big rig truck dealers appear to carry silicone. Pliers or vise grips to rip out the cotter pin clamp coming from the metal tube appear to be the only way for me to get that clamp off, also using a sharp box cutter to remove the rubber hose is a good recommendation. Once the old stuff was out my main difficultly was aligning the metal tube up with the engine block orifice to push the silicone tubing on. Putting the silicone tubing in boiling water and KY jelly makes it more manageble. The main tool that I found that worked best for this step was a long piece of PVC pipe cut to lenght and padded a little on the front with tape to use leverage and properly align the metal downtube and more importantly get enough leverage to push the silicone tubing from the metal downtube onto the engine block tube. The PVC pipe made this jobe a hell of a lot easier and I recommend it if you find that you are too big or too tired to get enough leverage to align and push the tubing on to the engine block orifice. I want to thank everyone for their advice, I would have never had the confidence with out their writeups to do this on my own.
Click to expand...

Ingenious use of KY
 
Otis, how did you use the pvc to get the hose on?
:confused:
 
Last edited:
I shoud have waited a few weeks. My head gasket failed and blew out at the rear water jacket on cyl #6. Now that the head is off it's very easy to get to the PHH!
headgasket.jpg
 
Looks like the typical deformity of the #6 sealing ring that I and others have seen. I have seen a marked improovement in how my engine runs since the gasket. Let us know how thing s work out.

Luckily I got to my gasket just as the ring was starting to seperate from the gasket, got to it just in time.
 
chris, how many miles are on your 80? what were the symptoms of failed hg?

whodat
 
Ha! The one along i-95? Yes, the other benefit of that stop is the cheap gas. Whodat
 
whodat - i used a long piece of PVC and wrapped the end with tape. I had the silicone tubing on the already pushed onto the tube end not attached to the block. I could only get the lubricated tube partially lined up to the tube coming off of the block. I then used the length of PVC to push gentlyon the back lip of the tube which added enough leverage to easily push the Silcone tube snug against the block. I also already had the hose clamps loosely on the tubing. It worked for me hopefully it will work for you.
 
Questions as I'm getting ready to swap this guy out.

1. I'm planning on using standard heater hose for the replacement instead of the fancy stuff. Do I still need to use the fancy clamps or will any standard hose clamp work?

2. There are 2 different style clamps on there from the factory. The one with the pin looks like it will have to be cut or does the pin slide out? The other wider clamp on the block side looks like it pinches together to release?

3. The band is wider on the inner clamp, do I need to follow suit and use 2 different width clamps?

4. When I remove the old hose, how much coolant should I expect to have come pouring out? Gushing out? A trickle?

Gracias!
 
Moj - If you're planning on using regular hose then standard clamps will be fine, and you only need the one size (ie - same width). To remove the factory hose you have to pull the cotter pin in the outer clamp (it will fall apart) and squeeze the inner clamp together and slide it (90 deg. needle-nose easiest) off the hose onto the pipe. Then you can simply cut the old hose w/ a utility knife - not much coolant will come out if you've already drained the block. You must do this first - otherwise you'll have about a half gallon of coolant to contend with! I just removed the upper bolt from the pipe and turned it at the block - lube the hose w/ dish soap and slide it all the way flush with the end, turn the pipe back, slide the hose over the nipple, slide the clamps down and tighten (put clamps on hard pipe before hose!). Easy breezy -

Tucker
 
I ended up going with regular old heater hose and regular old clamps. At 110k the original PHH showed only very slight signs of deteoration. Figure I won't have to worry with if for another 100k miles or 7 years!
 
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