PHH (2 Viewers)

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Hey thanks Rich for the McMaster site.

I've got 4 clamps on order for Simon and I. Getting the hose and clamps has only taken us like 1.5 weeks to deal with.

Jeeze - I'm glad I don't do this for a living. Takes me 2 weeks to get the parts to replace a heater hose. Then another 2 or 3 weeks to research on the web the best way to tackle the job. :doh:
 
Riley,

Your welcome. Let me know anytime you want me to help spend your money. ;)

Rich
 
I didn't use silicone hose. I used Gates Green Stripe hose and Awab hose clamps. The hose clamps are for hose 15 - 24 mm in diameter. The hose is about an inch in outer diameter, so the clamps are pretty much as small as will fit on the hose. The Awab hose clamps are not constant tension. They are not lined, but instead, the perforations do not penetrate the band, and the edges are rounded. So they do not damage the hose and would be suitable for silcone hose other than the fact that they are not constant tension.

I went with Gates Green Stripe to avoid the two disadvantages of using silicone hose, that is they can be damaged by using incorrect clamps, and they can cold leak. Using the type of clamps you bought should alleviate this two problems. I do believe silicone hose can take higher temps than Gates Green Stripe.

The disadvantage of the Gates Green Stripe is that to be easy to install you need to removed the steel heater pipe from the back of the engine. The hose is very stiff and would be very difficult to install with the steel pipe fastened to the block. If your plan is to leave the steel pipe in place you will find the Silicon hose much easier to install.

If anybody is interested I can post some tips on how to remove and replace the steel heater pipe.

Rich
 
just to make sure I'm seeing the correct hose.

a) It sits horizontial correct?
b) It sits in the same direction as the axle correct (i.e. sits side to side not front to rear)?

I think I'll leave the pipe on the engine this time.
 
The Green Stripe wouldn't be too bad if you use a novel approach that made the rounds a year ago. You only remove ONE bolt holding the tube to the block (upper?) lube the metal pipe and slide the new hose up it until you can fit the other end of the hose onto the block nipple. Then slide the hose onto the nipple, tighten the clamps, and you're done. You did slide the clamps onto the tube also didn't you?.....

This is what I did using green silicone hose and I felt a stiffer hose like the Green Stripe would also be compatible with the approach.



DougM
 
All I can add is that I think trying to do a slide job with the Gates green stripe would be quit difficult. The hose is very stiff. It is thicker in wall thickness than the Toyota hose and is also a tight fit on the pipes. With enough perseverance and hand strength I expect it could be accomplished. I do recall somebody posting that he installed NAPA's heaviest heater hose that way. I have a long reach, so for me, it was a lot easier to remove the heater pipe entirely in order to replace the little bit of hose.

Rich
 
~~~~~WARNING: Thread resurrection in progress~~~~~~~

O.K., I replaced my PHH this weekend.

Used silicone hose; the only local supplier I could find was a parts house for semis and other industrial equipment, so you may have to do the same.

Used the constant tention lined hose clamps that Rich mentioned now on page 211 of their online catalog, part #54205K11
5281kp1l.gif


Took a little while, I loosened the top bolt of the heater pipe along with disconnecting the hose at the top. I also loosened two of the nuts holding the transmission dipstick/fill tube to give my forearms a little more room.

What actually took longer was flushing the engine coolant afterward: fill with clean water, let run, let engine cool, drain, repeat..... 4 times. Replaced the thermostat and gasket too. (Thanks C-Dan!)

All in all, not too bad. Bruised forarm a little bit and gnashed my knuckles. What hurts more is [embarassing story warning] I think I broke my left pinky toe stubbing it at the grocery store yesterday.
Yes, a grocery store injury. :rolleyes:
 
Ryan,

>> ... fill with clean water, let run, let engine cool, drain, repeat..... 4 times. <<

Hopefully the trip to the store was to get distilled water?

-B-
 
Yeh, I used distilled water every time. Wasn't sure if I needed to, but it's cheap insurance.
 
I flush with tap water but fill with distilled. It sounds like you're well prepared for another year or two with a well serviced cooling system. Thanks for the pic & updated link on the constant tension clamps.

(I love the McMaster site!)

-B-
 
How is the pictured clamp "constant tension"? AFAIK, this phrase refers to spring steel clamps made to specific sizes that will continue to squeeze as the hose acquires a dent from the clamp. A clamp as pictured will put tension on the hose, but as the denting occurs it will place less tension on the hose, thus not called "constant tension". You'll find a number of constant tension spring clamps on the 80. Am I right or wrong on this, or does the pictured clamp have some other tensioning ability we cannot see?
 
Doug,

I think the constant tension term is in regards to temperture. If I recall correctly, with silicon hose, it can leak when cold. The constent tension clamp, it's still tight when cold??? something like that. Rich mentioned this back when he first mentioned these clamps (would have been back on Oct 2003 timeframe). I'll try to find this thread in a second.

I think there is a special metal spring in there to keep the tension when cold.

I ordered a pair of these clamps as well but I think I got a size too big. Man they are large and can't imagine getting them installed on the PHH :banana:

Riley

:doh: edit - See page one of this very thread. Rich covers the cold temp issue.
 
Pretty cool design. Must have a coil spring inside the barrel, or that's it against the screw head. Nice.

Doug
 
[quote author=IdahoDoug link=board=2;threadid=7219;start=msg121742#msg121742 date=1079408837]
How is the pictured clamp "constant tension"? AFAIK, this phrase refers to spring steel clamps made to specific sizes that will continue to squeeze as the hose acquires a dent from the clamp. A clamp as pictured will put tension on the hose, but as the denting occurs it will place less tension on the hose, thus not called "constant tension". You'll find a number of constant tension spring clamps on the 80. Am I right or wrong on this, or does the pictured clamp have some other tensioning ability we cannot see?
[/quote]

The part of the clamp I have depicted with a red arrow in the attached pic is actually a series of conical washers that compress when you tighten the clamp. Since the group of washers want to return to their original shape, they are putting a constant outward tention on the worm drive bolt.

I drew a simple diagram of the washers to the right. I'll take a picture of the installed hose and post it later.
 
[quote author=Riley link=board=2;threadid=7219;start=msg121766#msg121766 date=1079410979]
I ordered a pair of these clamps as well but I think I got a size too big. Man they are large and can't imagine getting them installed on the PHH :banana:

Riley
[/quote]

The ones I used are the smallest ones they offer, I believe. At least the smallest (both width and diameter) that are shown on page 211 of their catalog.
 
O.K. Best picture I could get in the confines of the area, but you can see the outer clamp, the hose, and part of the inner clamp (closest to the engine) which is oriented the same way as the outer.
 
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