I read that Toyota sells the phh and hardline as one unit and if that's true, I would order that and use it.
It all made sense to me after I read that.
I think @pinhead wrote a good method. This was not a difficult job. It's fiddly, but doesn't take much time.
It would be a huge pain if you had to do it all under the truck.
refer to my scribble below:
1. remove the hard line bolts and hose to heater valve
2. under truck, remove hose clamp on engine and
3. entire thing will fall out - clamp on the new hose to hardline and reverse procedure.
So you only are under the truck to push in/pull out the phh, and loosen/tighten one clamp.
If I had the Toyota OEM hose and clamps, it would have been even easier because OEM clamps just have a pull tab- no need to spin a wrench.
I used Gates green stripe Rubber hose and stainless clamps, it's what I had handy. I would have used the OEM clamps but Gates green is too fat.
-Since Toyota made the hardline/phh as one assembly, that's the reason for the pin clamp. It's never meant to be removed.
-The hardline keeps pressure off of the plastic heater valve.
-Hardline also keeps the phh physically pressing against the block.
-Rubber hose seals to metal, so the clamp doesn't have to be cranked down. Silicone does not have this advantage.
(also reading about Joey's silicone phh blowing up...just not worth it. Bonus, rubber hose is cheap.)
-non-oem constant tension clamps are, imo, totally unneeded and require a proper torque spec which is hard to see the backside nub on the ct clamp.
Ok, just my thoughts. If you are afraid to tackle this, don't be.
My recommendation is to stick to OEM, use the proper tools, and it will be relatively painless.
It all made sense to me after I read that.
I think @pinhead wrote a good method. This was not a difficult job. It's fiddly, but doesn't take much time.
It would be a huge pain if you had to do it all under the truck.
refer to my scribble below:
1. remove the hard line bolts and hose to heater valve
2. under truck, remove hose clamp on engine and
3. entire thing will fall out - clamp on the new hose to hardline and reverse procedure.
So you only are under the truck to push in/pull out the phh, and loosen/tighten one clamp.
If I had the Toyota OEM hose and clamps, it would have been even easier because OEM clamps just have a pull tab- no need to spin a wrench.
I used Gates green stripe Rubber hose and stainless clamps, it's what I had handy. I would have used the OEM clamps but Gates green is too fat.
-Since Toyota made the hardline/phh as one assembly, that's the reason for the pin clamp. It's never meant to be removed.
-The hardline keeps pressure off of the plastic heater valve.
-Hardline also keeps the phh physically pressing against the block.
-Rubber hose seals to metal, so the clamp doesn't have to be cranked down. Silicone does not have this advantage.
(also reading about Joey's silicone phh blowing up...just not worth it. Bonus, rubber hose is cheap.)
-non-oem constant tension clamps are, imo, totally unneeded and require a proper torque spec which is hard to see the backside nub on the ct clamp.
Ok, just my thoughts. If you are afraid to tackle this, don't be.
My recommendation is to stick to OEM, use the proper tools, and it will be relatively painless.
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