PHH (1 Viewer)

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I read that Toyota sells the phh and hardline as one unit and if that's true, I would order that and use it.
It all made sense to me after I read that.

I think @pinhead wrote a good method. This was not a difficult job. It's fiddly, but doesn't take much time.
It would be a huge pain if you had to do it all under the truck.

refer to my scribble below:
1. remove the hard line bolts and hose to heater valve
2. under truck, remove hose clamp on engine and
3. entire thing will fall out - clamp on the new hose to hardline and reverse procedure.

So you only are under the truck to push in/pull out the phh, and loosen/tighten one clamp.

If I had the Toyota OEM hose and clamps, it would have been even easier because OEM clamps just have a pull tab- no need to spin a wrench.

I used Gates green stripe Rubber hose and stainless clamps, it's what I had handy. I would have used the OEM clamps but Gates green is too fat.

-Since Toyota made the hardline/phh as one assembly, that's the reason for the pin clamp. It's never meant to be removed.
-The hardline keeps pressure off of the plastic heater valve.
-Hardline also keeps the phh physically pressing against the block.
-Rubber hose seals to metal, so the clamp doesn't have to be cranked down. Silicone does not have this advantage.
(also reading about Joey's silicone phh blowing up...just not worth it. Bonus, rubber hose is cheap.)
-non-oem constant tension clamps are, imo, totally unneeded and require a proper torque spec which is hard to see the backside nub on the ct clamp.

Ok, just my thoughts. If you are afraid to tackle this, don't be.
My recommendation is to stick to OEM, use the proper tools, and it will be relatively painless.

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Really good write up. Another note: the hose connection to the block is directly above the NSS connector and will disable your PRNDL2 Christmas tree and back up lights if it leaks, so make certain that connection is good. I'll swear by Toyota's hose and clamps in that location all day long.
 
Let me drop this in - a smart landcruiser guy suggested years ago, and I did this and recommend it as a practical PHH solution - remove that hardpipe and ditch it - do not replace. Instead - run a long 5/8" Gates Green stripe from the heater valve all the way around the brake vacuum booster, down and under to the the block PHH connection. Then, getting it off and on is very easy because it's not a short trapped segment. You reach back there and grab a big handful of hose. It does not change coolant system function an any way. You also have some spare "trim&replace" slack available on the end of the hose forever more.

Also - I kept the hardpipe as a handy connector shop piece, along with a long piece of 5/8" heater hose, with a brass female garden hose adapter on the other end, so you can easily flush the cooling system(any car) with full flow hose water into whatever part of the system I want to.
 
Let me drop this in - a smart landcruiser guy suggested years ago, and I did this and recommend it as a practical PHH solution - remove that hardpipe and ditch it - do not replace. Instead - run a long 5/8" Gates Green stripe from the heater valve all the way around the brake vacuum booster, down and under to the the block PHH connection. Then, getting it off and on is very easy because it's not a short trapped segment. You reach back there and grab a big handful of hose. It does not change coolant system function an any way. You also have some spare "trim&replace" slack available on the end of the hose forever more.

Also - I kept the hardpipe as a handy connector shop piece, along with a long piece of 5/8" heater hose, with a brass female garden hose adapter on the other end, so you can easily flush the cooling system(any car) with full flow hose water into whatever part of the system I want to.


^^^^^
Exactly what I did. Very happy with this mod/solution.
 
I paid a little extra $$ and got the OEM hardline/hose assembly with a new OEM clamp. Very happy with this long-lasting setup, hopefully I will never need to mess with it again. With the valve cover off it was really not that hard to replace.
 
Except the long hose around the brake booster:

1. Looks like back woods red neck butt crack.
2, The long water-filled hose puts strain on the plastic heater valve, leading to failure.
3. Is no easier that installing a new OEM hose and pipe or reinstalling the old one with a new 3 inch piece of hose as long as you don’t have to fool with installing the lower bolt.
4. 3 feet of hose costs more than 3 inches.
 
Sorry...just can't make myself pass it up...
Except the long hose around the brake booster:

1. Looks like back woods red neck butt crack.
:hillbilly: BUTT :moon: Only if you look under the hood of a back woods red neck and look up close at his...:rofl:
2, The long water-filled hose puts strain on the plastic heater valve, leading to failure.
Naw it don't, really, the hose lays in there nice & straight. Just finally replaced my OEM valve. Was about ready to crumble. Put the long hose in probably 12 years ago?
3. Is no easier that installing a new OEM hose and pipe or reinstalling the old one with a new 3 inch piece of hose as long as you don’t have to fool with installing the lower bolt.
It really is - easy peasy - really. Nobody would have ever coined the PHH moniker if they used this method.
4. 3 feet of hose costs more than 3 inches.
ya got me there!

Just me making an educated guess here, but the reason Mr.T went to the trouble of specifying that hard pipe had absolutely nothing to do with functionality, durability, or dealer or field maintenance. Nope - the Factory assembly line engineering team would have been given budgets for station assembly time and number of operations to complete. The engine/transmission went in as a pre-tested unit, including coolant hoses - never to be touched again, as far they cared.
 
Let me drop this in - a smart landcruiser guy suggested years ago, and I did this and recommend it as a practical PHH solution - remove that hardpipe and ditch it - do not replace. Instead - run a long 5/8" Gates Green stripe from the heater valve all the way around the brake vacuum booster, down and under to the the block PHH connection. Then, getting it off and on is very easy because it's not a short trapped segment. You reach back there and grab a big handful of hose. It does not change coolant system function an any way. You also have some spare "trim&replace" slack available on the end of the hose forever more.

Also - I kept the hardpipe as a handy connector shop piece, along with a long piece of 5/8" heater hose, with a brass female garden hose adapter on the other end, so you can easily flush the cooling system(any car) with full flow hose water into whatever part of the system I want to.

By far the best method in my opinion aswell, plus I T-in a y connection into that hose running from the head to the valve with another hose coming off the block drain, and in-line on that hose from the block drain I have a zerostart circulation coolant heater. Plug that in on a winters night and leave the heater valve open, keeps the engine 1/4 temp during a -30c night and you have instant cabin heat when you start the truck in the morning!

Rip that junk hardline out of there... IMHO :moon:
 
...plus a y connection...another hose... I have a zerostart circulation coolant heater. Plug that in on a winters night and leave the heater valve open, keeps the engine 1/4 temp during a -30c night and you have instant cabin heat when you start the truck in the morning!

Nice! Now - why didn't I think of that? Oh, yeah - cause it's hotter than the Gates of Dis around here! still working on a way to keep that A/C running all day on a plug-in...

p.s. A parting thought, lest I be mis-understood. With all due respect to all his well thought contributions over the years here...When the @Pin_Head speaks, I've learned to listen & consider - really!
 
I read that Toyota sells the phh and hardline as one unit and if that's true, I would order that and use it.
It all made sense to me after I read that.

I think @pinhead wrote a good method. This was not a difficult job. It's fiddly, but doesn't take much time.
It would be a huge pain if you had to do it all under the truck.

refer to my scribble below:
1. remove the hard line bolts and hose to heater valve
2. under truck, remove hose clamp on engine and
3. entire thing will fall out - clamp on the new hose to hardline and reverse procedure.

So you only are under the truck to push in/pull out the phh, and loosen/tighten one clamp.

If I had the Toyota OEM hose and clamps, it would have been even easier because OEM clamps just have a pull tab- no need to spin a wrench.

I used Gates green stripe Rubber hose and stainless clamps, it's what I had handy. I would have used the OEM clamps but Gates green is too fat.

-Since Toyota made the hardline/phh as one assembly, that's the reason for the pin clamp. It's never meant to be removed.
-The hardline keeps pressure off of the plastic heater valve.
-Hardline also keeps the phh physically pressing against the block.
-Rubber hose seals to metal, so the clamp doesn't have to be cranked down. Silicone does not have this advantage.
(also reading about Joey's silicone phh blowing up...just not worth it. Bonus, rubber hose is cheap.)
-non-oem constant tension clamps are, imo, totally unneeded and require a proper torque spec which is hard to see the backside nub on the ct clamp.

Ok, just my thoughts. If you are afraid to tackle this, don't be.
My recommendation is to stick to OEM, use the proper tools, and it will be relatively painless.

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View attachment 2513809
I was looking at the heater and air conditioning parts schematic and it does look like the hose and pipe come as a kit. Part #87209d. From what I see the actual steel line #8720860291 alone costs about $194!!

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The best method I have found.

1. Turn wheel all the way to the right.
2. Remove driver front tire and place vehicle on jack stands.
3. Squeeze between the rotor an front fender and you can see it with a flash light.
Get the longest needle nose pliers you can find.
4. jam your arm up in there and remove the two clamps by twisting them counter clockwise.
Grab a razor blade and cut the crusty hose the full length and remove.
5. Move to the top and remove the hose going from the hard line to the heater valve .
6. Locate the the bolt holding the hard line to the manifold and remove.
7.Now wiggle that piece of s*** back and forth until you hear it snap. ( you break the tab holding the pipe to the head, trust me you will never use this pipe again)
8. Throw it in the trash to never be seen again.
9 replace entire section with a long piece of gates hose. ( Save time and buy 4 ft of hose and run it down from the top the reach through the side and push on the head outlet.
10. Apply quality clamp by stretching and contorting your arm like never before.
11. Trim to length up top and apply clamp to heater valve.
12. Refill with the same type of coolant you removed.
 
Discovered an old Daiso (Japan dollar store brand) ratchet wrench could grab & spin out the lower pipe bolt. The outward "snout" setting the smallish head 23.3mm OD away by ~3mm helped:

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My HF Pittsburgh Pro 12mm box ratchet measuring 24.7mm OD didn't line up when I tried. YMMV and worth a shot with tighter tools:
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I can't find the 4-in-1 ratchet wrench available at Daiso anymore, but something like a Channellock 841M set could work if the head is 23mm-ish:
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Went with Gates Green Stripe this time, thanks to everyone's advice & options.
 
If Heater Valve dismount is an option (changing hoses), circled the lower bolt visible under the EGR.

I gave up topside approach due to ill-perceived limited swing, 2nd pic was my stubby 12mm box ratchet 🔧 not really lining up.

Then, only AFTER viewing my flash pics spotted a foreign object there -- yes that's a stubby driver hiding from PO!

Posting in case helps another with an offset / open end / slimmer box wrench can succeed where I failed :doh: topside.

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If ever the valve cover is off, should improve topside access? I snapped this during cover gasket replacement, red box where bolt once was:
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Bottomside approach reference, with wheel + starter + transmission dipstick tube extension slid off yields a tunnel ~14" long to the frame rail:
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