PHH OEM style close up pics

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Helps to be either left handed or ambidextrous for this job. A lot of professional mechanics have learned to be ambidextrous because you have to use both hands.
 
In the summer I run my truck with the heater valve cable disconnected at the valve as even with adjusting the cable I can never seem to close the valve 100% using the heat control lever. However with the cable disconnected and the heater valve lever manually pushed all the way closed there is no noticeable heat coming from the heater cores. FWIW.
 
I don't want to be "that guy" but it's reasons like this that I'm okay with having a 3FE. :)
...

There are some hoses on the 3FE that make me wish for a PHH job.:hillbilly:
 
Just got a PHH kit........however, there's no way in hell I'm gonna attempt to do this job. I was wondering: what kind of cost would you guys attribute to this job? I wanna offer up having this done, but I don't want to lowball the mechanic.
I called my local independent "Toy Doctor" and they quoted $550 to do it.

Muddy1
 
Hi All,
Does anyone know how much the NAPA constant torque clamps should be tightened? I did my PHH tonight with high temp silicone hose but I can find any info on how tight they should be. I would hate to strip them after spending so much time on this.
Thanks
 
Just got a PHH kit........however, there's no way in hell I'm gonna attempt to do this job. I was wondering: what kind of cost would you guys attribute to this job? I wanna offer up having this done, but I don't want to lowball the mechanic.

K&H Imports in Chatsworth, CA had quoted me $250 to do the job. Not sure if it is high or low for what the job entails.
 
I don't want to be "that guy" but it's reasons like this that I'm okay with having a 3FE. :)

My wife and I once spent 4-6 hours doing spark plugs on a '96 Buick Roadmaster (the LT1 engine) and that was an experience I would not wish on my worst enemy.

X2!
 
Hi All,
Does anyone know how much the NAPA constant torque clamps should be tightened? I did my PHH tonight with high temp silicone hose but I can find any info on how tight they should be. I would hate to strip them after spending so much time on this.
Thanks

I have no idea - just tightened them until it felt right... so in reality probably over-torqued them!!!
:worms:
 
I did NOT put the lower PHH bracket bolt back in.

People are spending lot of time to install this pesky hose! but to fix is very simple - yes break it; you do not need that mount. Took me 10 min to replace it.

Save yourself a lot of grief and just break off the lower mounting tab for the tube. F'ing with the lower mounting bolt is what is pesky. No matter what you replace it with, it will make the job much easier because you won't be spending much time reaching underneath the truck and you will have more room because the tube is out.

If you break the lower tab, the job is no longer a PHH, it is just a HH.
 
Save yourself a lot of grief and just break off the lower mounting tab for the tube. F'ing with the lower mounting bolt is what is pesky. No matter what you replace it with, it will make the job much easier because you won't be spending much time reaching underneath the truck and you will have more room because the tube is out.

If you break the lower tab, the job is no longer a PHH, it is just a HH.


Just ball up and do it yourself following pin_head's direction. It really isn't that bad.
 
I called my local independent "Toy Doctor" and they quoted $550 to do it.

Muddy1
I know I'm quoting an old post....but even as "pesky" as it was, bring it over and I'll do it for 1/2 that amount. I'll even let you drink a few beers out of my fridge while I do it. Haha.
 
To the OP:

thanks for posting clear, step-by-step pics. This has really helped me visualize one of my upcoming projects. Now I have no question on what the PHH (and others) look like.
 
To the OP:

thanks for posting clear, step-by-step pics. This has really helped me visualize one of my upcoming projects. Now I have no question on what the PHH (and others) look like.

I have more pics. Just posted the most important ones. Let me know if you want a pic of something else and I will post it here if I have it
 
I'm about to attempt this job for the first time. Going to do all the heater hoses and PHH, heater valve, thermostat, water pump, fan clutch and both belts. Does the truck need to be jacked up to work on those items?
 
You need to take the front, driver side tire off to access the PHH. So for that, yes. I have not done the water pump, so can't comment on that but for the other tasks you mention, no need to jack up the truck
 
Thank you for this thread. Come winter I'll be doing this as well. Do you have to reuse that metal tube or can you run the hose directly to the valve?
 
I chose to reuse the metal tube. Others choose to bypass. I like to keep things as close to OEM as I can when it makes sense, so chose that option here. Bypassing the tube is definitely the easier route and those that do it that way have no complaints
 

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