PHH OEM style close up pics

[Chris FJ80]

I removed the engine block plug, drained and flushed

Not difficult

 

[jbee]

I chose to reuse the metal tube. Others choose to bypass. I like to keep things as close to OEM as I can when it makes sense, so chose that option here. Bypassing the tube is definitely the easier route and those that do it that way have no complaints

I was not able to bypass it with the metal tube still in position connected by the brackets. Once you get the metal tube off, I removed the top bolt and broke the bottom bracket, it's just as easy to put the metal tube back in as it is to bypass.

For a trail or roadside repair on a hot motor, the bypass would be the way to go 100%. It would be way easier.

 

[jbee]

I'm about to attempt this job for the first time. Going to do all the heater hoses and PHH, heater valve, thermostat, water pump, fan clutch and both belts. Does the truck need to be jacked up to work on those items?

Pinhead has great instructions on this, which I followed. Take the driver side front tire off, then lower the axle down onto jackstands, then you can actually sit in the wheel well with your back against the brake caliper and reach everything with your left hand.
Remove the two bolts that hold the trans dipstick in place, it will just hang down but will be out of the way. I also removed the starter with two bolts and two wires because I'm having it rebuilt, that provides more space too.

 

[Chris FJ80]

Definitely need to drop the transmission dipstick!

 

[bmwjnky]

Bumping an old thread for the good picture documentation.

 

[cmadness]

I just finishing doing mine after the hose blew and left me stranded. 169K miles and completely by fault for procrastinating.

My job took me over 2 hours with a couple of breaks to swear and smash a cheap flashlight that stopped working.

I took off the drivers wheel and removed the top tranny dip stick bolt and moved it a few inches down. I also removed a bolt that held the hard brake lines. It was easy to get to and gave me more wiggle room. I chose to remove the knock sensor wire just for safety. I then cut through the PHH. At this point I still didn't have enough room to work so I disconnected the top of the hard line and unbolted it. There was a bracket a little bit down from the top side that was still connected and I read many mudders "simply broke" it off with no instructions on how to do this. I tried wiggling the pipe back and forth but it didn't do anything so I got a large screw driver, put it against the bracket and hammered down on it until it broke off. This took a while. With the hard pipe free I could rip away the remaining PHH and totally remove the hard line. There it now more room to get tools in to remove the PHH clamp with some long needle nose pillars. I pried off the other clamp from the hard line and then put on the new gates green strip hose I got from PHHKIT.com. I used a little dish soap in the inside of the hose and placed it on the block side. Then I put the hard line back on and put the claps around the hose. It's still a tight working space and I had trouble tightening the clamps but ended up using a bunch of extensions and snaking it up from the bottom. Then I connected the top of the hard line and replaced the bolts for the brackets and the knock sensor wire.

This is a tedious job and very frustrating. My hands and forearms are sore today but I'm glad I got it done. I could do it faster if I had to again but the people claiming they can knock it out in 10 mins, I call BS. If it was so easy, why is there no video of this process?

Anyway, this was just my process to add to the list. Good luck and good karma to the next...

 

[Pin_Head]

It takes 5-10 minutes rocking the tube back and forth to break off the tab and you can sip a beer while you are doing this. It helps to bend the upper tab 90 degrees so that it will rock further before hitting something.

 

[1973Guppie]

as been stated other places before but here goes: remove front d side tire, unbolt dipstick tube and remove (it sits in the way right in front of PHH), don't bother with that lower bolt on the long metal tube / rock gently and break the tab and remove.

 

[davidp14]

bumping for clarification...

is the bracket that you guys are breaking the one in pic #7?

 

[danthman114]

bumping for clarification...

is the bracket that you guys are breaking the one in pic #7?

grab and twist back and fourth and the bracket will break off.

 

[koifish]

bumping for clarification...

is the bracket that you guys are breaking the one in pic #7?

I believe its in picture #10. The lower of the two brackets on the tube.

 

[davidp14]

Thanks glad I asked. And thanks to @Chris FJ80 for his write up.

 

[Pin_Head]

It is much easier to twist and rock the tube back and forth from the top while you are drinking a beer than from the bottom. Depending on how fast you move it, it may take 5-10 minutes to break off.

 

[AtlWagen]

This post never gets old.

 

[johnnye23]

Great write-up. Big Thanks ! I also used a heat gun to soften up the hose before installing . I also purchased new clamps from Toyota p/n 900800-46456. These are the spring like clamps that come with a clip installed to keep them open during installation. When hose is where you want it you slide clamp in position and remove clip and it's done .

 

[Kernal]

Have the clamps been on for awhile, seen any seepage?

 

[Bambusiero]

I chose to reuse the metal tube. Others choose to bypass. I like to keep things as close to OEM as I can when it makes sense, so chose that option here. Bypassing the tube is definitely the easier route and those that do it that way have no complaints

From the standpoint of ongoing maintenance, it's a big improvement to simply pull out and discard the downpipe, and replace with a long loop of heater hose, all the way around the brake booster.
The main thing that make the PHH such a PITA is that the 2 hardpipes are facing each other, end to end.
That's a problem, even with good access, and access is obviously not good.

There is zero benefit to you, the maintenance guy, to keeping that downpipe.
The reason Mr.T did it that way, IMO, was for factory assembly line efficiency.
The engine install station was probably given a budget for "operations to complete".

Imagine how much easier to service with a single ended length of hose there.
1) Reach in, one handed, at arms length, almost blind.
2) Loosen hose clamp.
3) Grab a big handful of hose and haul ass with full strength to pull off.
4) Fish the long end all the way out, where you can look right at it.
5) Cut off an inch or 2.
6) Reach in, one handed, at arms length, almost blind, and slip it back on the nipple.
7) Tighten hose clamp.

 

[johnnye23]

Have the clamps been on for awhile, seen any seepage?

Drove from Nor Cal to Phoenix to Baja. No seepage , if I had enough time I would have ordered from Witt, however the hose let lose day before we left on trip

 

[lp2k]

I followed this verbatim. Only thing I would suggest is to use a longer 6 point 12mm ratcheting wrench for that tight 2nd bolt. This was perfect since I am replacing all of those hard rubber hoses, cleaning off all of the rust and building this to last. This is the wrench I was talking about:

TEKTON 12 x 14 mm Long Flex Ratcheting Box End Wrench | WRN77107

 

[clx16]

If you didn't buy a whole set of those long wrenches you are doing your self a disfavor. I have the hb icon version and def game changers.