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- #21
It's right above the starter and is about 4 to 5 inches long. Changing it is a task that songs are written from.
PHH Kills A Friend
- Thread starter warpdriv
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It's right above the starter and is about 4 to 5 inches long. Changing it is a task that songs are written from.
A few years ago I found guages that had safety cutoffs for oil pressure and temp. I didn't buy them, but I wanted to. You could set a certain temp and if it hit that temp, it would shut the engine off. I'll see if I can find the info again. I wonder if a tuner could do the same thing.
Holy crap, could it be any more dangerous? So you are carving up some pavement in the high lands and all of a sudden no power steering and assisted braking. In the ditch you go.
I can't even imagine this being a legal setup on a vehicle.
You actually would have assisted braking. But you'd only get maybe 3 or 4 pumps before it'd be unassisted......
And as long as you're moving, steering without power steering isn't that bad. It's when going very slow or stopped that power steering is most useful.
SIDE She was ready to blow at 176,000
Put a 120lb female behind the wheel of a modified 80 in that condition and ask her how tough it is to turn and stop.
So women couldn't drive before the invention of power steering and power brakes?
I'm not saying it'd be good. In fact I think it'd be quite bad, and very likely could be dangerous. Just not as quite as dangerous as you're making out.
I've handled the rig with the engine cut at speed before, turning was not a big deal IMHO. Braking was fine for the first few pumps, then sucked after that, literally lifted myself out of the seat to fully depress the brakes.
There are plenty of situations that could cause the engine to cut out anyway, water in the dizzy, engine stumble, vacuum leak, power steering pump lets go, etc. So it's not any different than what you'd have to deal with if any one of a dozen emergencies/failures cropped up.
Heck, even repeated rapid braking will cause the system to run out of vacuum and you'll have to stop unassisted. Been there done that.
Speaking of which, it's good practice to learn to handle the rig with the engine cut at speed so that you know what it feels like to have to stop and turn the vehicle without all them fancy power thinga-ma-gadgets.
imo, the phh along with the metal tube that feeds the heater valve should just be bypassed all together. no sense replacing a band aid with a heavier duty band aid. having to fiddle with a single clamp down there is a PITA enough, but two? i still shake my head as to why even bother with a 2" piece of hose.
DO THE BYPASS! you can even use the nice gates silicone stuff if you want. get a 4-5' piece of 5/8 hose, and run 2 clamps. one at the head, and one at the heater valve. route the lines around the brake booster. done. there should be enough slack to allow movement, and if for some reason it leaks or goes again...you can just cut the bypass hose shorter and reinstall. i did my PHH a while back, but then developed a leak at the 90* elbow above the metal tube that connects to the PHH even after a new 90* elbow from the heater valve was put in. finally i said fxxx it, and tossed the whole thing and replaced the 2 hoses/1 metal tube pieces and 4 clamps with 1 long single line and 2 clamps. KISS.
DO THE BYPASS! you can even use the nice gates silicone stuff if you want. get a 4-5' piece of 5/8 hose, and run 2 clamps. one at the head, and one at the heater valve. route the lines around the brake booster. done. there should be enough slack to allow movement, and if for some reason it leaks or goes again...you can just cut the bypass hose shorter and reinstall. i did my PHH a while back, but then developed a leak at the 90* elbow above the metal tube that connects to the PHH even after a new 90* elbow from the heater valve was put in. finally i said fxxx it, and tossed the whole thing and replaced the 2 hoses/1 metal tube pieces and 4 clamps with 1 long single line and 2 clamps. KISS.
along with standing on the now non assisted brakes, one could also pull the parking brake, also known as the emergency brake! 
a proper functioning ebrake should be able to slow the 80 down to a stop in a reasonable amount of time in conjunction with manual hydraulic brakes.
a proper functioning ebrake should be able to slow the 80 down to a stop in a reasonable amount of time in conjunction with manual hydraulic brakes.So women couldn't drive before the invention of power steering and power brakes?
I'm not saying it'd be good. In fact I think it'd be quite bad, and very likely could be dangerous. Just not as quite as dangerous as you're making out.
I've handled the rig with the engine cut at speed before, turning was not a big deal IMHO. Braking was fine for the first few pumps, then sucked after that, literally lifted myself out of the seat to fully depress the brakes.
There are plenty of situations that could cause the engine to cut out anyway, water in the dizzy, engine stumble, vacuum leak, power steering pump lets go, etc. So it's not any different than what you'd have to deal with if any one of a dozen emergencies/failures cropped up.
Heck, even repeated rapid braking will cause the system to run out of vacuum and you'll have to stop unassisted. Been there done that.
Speaking of which, it's good practice to learn to handle the rig with the engine cut at speed so that you know what it feels like to have to stop and turn the vehicle without all them fancy power thinga-ma-gadgets.
What exactly was the cause of death? Block warped, pistons frozen? If it's just the head and gasket that's not a killer.
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- #31
I could see using those to trigger a light or a warning buzzer.
- Thread starter
- #32
I have not tore into it but my said it was making a loud rattling noise when she pulled over. When I went to pick her up, there was oil all over the ground. So i'm playing it safe calling it dead and putting in another engine instead of guessing what is wrong with this one.
along with standing on the now non assisted brakes, one could also pull the parking brake, also known as the emergency brake!
Naw. A woman would never think of that.
(In all fairness the guy driving the Lexus where the gas pedal stuck didn't either.
)
1995 Toyota land cruiser I-6 cylinder engine
This is the link to the 95 FZJ80 I6 on craigs list Dallas. $1500.
This is the link to the 95 FZJ80 I6 on craigs list Dallas. $1500.
Thats the link I saw the other day but couldnt ind again. Forgot what searching terms I used.
That's the way to do it. The gauges with the built-in switching are the Auto Meter Pro Controls. You can set a low warning for oil pressure, and a low and high cutoff for temperature. LED comes on when you hit the warning and it also trips a switch in the gauge. You can connect whatever you want to the switch, although if it's more than maybe 1 amp you're going to need a relay.
