pertronix issues

[jkl72-40]

Howdy,
I did search and did not find anything to my issue.
I just got my pertronix w/ ignitor so I just installed it and no
spark, re ran the wires once with the ballast resistor and with out it the 2nd time..no spark . am I 180 out? and why? it said it should start I did have to file the bottom of the rotor to make it fit down on the shaft.
sorry for the pertronix repost.....
Kyle

 

[Pin_Head]

It will make a spark no matter what the orientation of the distributor is. No spark means either no power to the coil, bad coil or bad ignitor circuit. Check for power at the coil, check the coil by powering it up and momentarily grounding the - side and then double check your ignitor wiring.

 

[jkl72-40]

checking coil

ok I tried grounding the - side while its turning over and no spark
I voltmetered from the ground to the ignition switch got 12v then went from ground to the + side of coil got 6v (resistor is working?(right next to coil))
ignitor is hooked to + and - of coil

72 40

 

[Pin_Head]

ok I tried grounding the - side while its turning over and no spark
I voltmetered from the ground to the ignition switch got 12v then went from ground to the + side of coil got 6v (resistor is working?(right next to coil))
ignitor is hooked to + and - of coil

72 40

Grounding the - side with the ignitor hooked up while cranking it isn't necessarily going to tell you anything that you don't already know. You need to disconnect the ignitor from the - side first, turn the ignition on (but not cranking the engine) and then momentarily ground the - side. If the coil and input power are good it will spark from the distributor wire.

If you hook your volt meter to the + side of the coil and crank the engine to start, th voltage should vary from 6 - 12 V as each cylinder fires.

 

[jkl72-40]

sparky

ok got spark by disconnecting the - igniter, turning on the key and running a jumper to ground whats next

 

[65swb45]

Do NOT use the ignitor assembly. That WILL solve your problem.

 

[jkl72-40]

what I meant was I disconnected the - of the pertronix ignitor (1 red 1 black wire i did the black one) and ran a jumper to ground with the key on to see if I got spark and I did.
The ignitor on the dizzy is not used.
this is a very straight forward set up I dont get why its not working
there is only 2 wires to hook up. the black goes to the - of the coil and the red goes to the + of the coil
the only thing i can now think of is that the rotor is not reaching the cap, because of the magnet on the shaft I filed the botom of the rotor about 1/8 inch to get it to seat down on the shaft i do have another rotor but it wont seat down. and the magnet has 2 ends one end has the hex shape of the shaft and the other is round and I would REALLY have to force it on the that side were to go on 1st
any ideas? geez i'm feeling real stupid

 

[65swb45]

Take a step back. What year are you working with? Did it have a factory ignitor assembly on it? If so, are you sure you bypassed it?

Yes, the round end goes on top. I am a little curious about your comments on the rotor. You know that the rotor is keyed, and will only seat in one position.

Also, what procedure did you use for reinstalling the dizzy to make sure you were not out-of-time?

 

[jkl72-40]

72-40-f motor.
there is the ballast resistor next to the coil. I dont think you mean this one (correct?) then there is a small cylinder on the dizzy itself (one black wire that went into the dizzy and hooked up to the points)(i think this is the original ignitor correct?(which is not being used))
I agree about the rotor i just filed 1/8 inch off the botom so it doesnt hit the magnet as you put it on, it still has plenty left before you get to that keyed part.
the dizzy was never removed, my thought was that the pertronix ignitor might make it 180 out due to its placement, but even that should be ok as the instructions say you can start it up and reset the timing.
I have tried both ways that are in the instructions. ignitor straight to the + and - of coil and ignitor + to the ballast resistor and - to the - of the coil.

 

[Pin_Head]

The + (red) wire of the new ignitor should connect to the black wire with yellow stripe at the ballast resistor. The other end of the ballast connects to the + side of the coil. That way your ignitor will see the full 12V it needs to operate and not the 6V that the coil sees when it is saturated.

 

[65swb45]

I spoke with Kyle this afternoon. We agreed that it is most likely a faulty unit. I will be replacing it for him shortly.