Permanent fix (in progress): Fuel/temp gauge spiking (pics, not dialup friendly)

[Spudman]

Thanks Spook

Now I think of it, a while ago I pulled the dash out and changed facias but kept the same gauges.

Before I pulled the dash out mine were reading high, since I've put the dash back in they're now reading low.

So yep, out with the dash again and see if this time it works spot on

 

[Spook50]

Quick update now that I've driven the truck enough to run through a tank of gas. The fuel gauge is way more accurate than it used to be. It used to read high through the first half of the tank and then plummet, but now it's much more to scale with the gauge face. It was right at the empty line when I stopped to fill up ($70. Jesus) and I put in 20.5 gallons. 1.5 gallons left. Not bad!

I've also received samples from Texas Instruments and Bournes of some of the components I'll be using for my next prototype. Progress is beginning to happen again, so I'm revving up and cleaning out my shop better accommodate this and my other projects/experiments.

 

[Spike Strip]

We'll still be here ...

 

[Spook50]

Anybody want to help me finish cleaning and rewiring my shop?

 

[gregnash]

LOL... well good to hear things are going well.. If you are looking for extra parts you can always call Crystal Mfgs for possible items. I used to work for ISLI America as an international sales rep and sent out samples all the time for such projects.

 

[Spook50]

Thanks for the suggestion. I've had samples coming to me like crazy for the last few weeks for this and other projects I'm stocking up for. What's got me drooling is a couple microcontrollers that (going off the data sheets) might have let me completely re-engineer our charging systems. The feasibility remains to be seen until I mock up a real test, so it'll likely be the next one I tackle.

Getting my shop cleaned up and completing the design on this is a priority for me at this point free time-wise. I have several other projects (most Cruiser related actually) that I want to experiment with too, but I'm not wanting to start making messes with those until I've completed the current project.

 

[Spook50]

Just a quicky to let any of you following this know it's still moving along. It's not stalled, but progress is just very slow. I'm working on learning Eagle CAD and trying to build and spec new components to use in that is one hell of a challenge for me. That coupled with my new job being 12-hr shifts and very physically demanding (I cast high purity aluminum at Honeywell now. Pay isn't the best, but I'm loving doing the work. Working with some cool people and got a good boss who legitimately gives a damn about his subordinates), with a very challenging quarter at school (C programming and PLCs, so I'm learning two languages and trying to keep them separate in my head), has got me more exhausted than I've been since basic training.

As far as progress on the regulator, that's my experimental piece for learning Eagle, where I'm laying out the new circuit and designing the PCB that will hopefully be just one or two steps away from a production design. The linear regulator I'm running now is still working beautifully, though I don't think it could realistically be used in hot climates without going into thermal shutdown. That's why I'm now focusing on a switcher based circuit.

I'm sure the actual market for these will be quite small, to be completely honest. But to provide a fix for a very aggravating problem is fun for me and it gives me an opportunity to make a significant contribution to the Cruiser community. I'm not intending to make some huge profit doing these, but as long as it can pay for itself and contribute to the funds for other Cruiser-related projects (I've got three ideas so far that I'll be moving on to after I complete this one), I'll be happy.

 

[FJ60Seth]

Thanks for doing this.

 

[justacruiser]

Yes, thank you! Its people like you that make this the best vehicle enthusiast community ive ever been part of. Haven't seed anywhere NEAR the kind of support and just plain cool people that this vehicle platform and forum attract!

 

[Spook50]

Well progress has been very slow since my last post in this thread. My job is physically exhausting (but I still really enjoy it, so it's worth it), and any time at home is taken up by either school work (microcontrollers and digital communication classes this quarter. Very challenging) or reigning in the family since our son was born just over a month ago. He is way higher maintenance than our daughter was when she was a newborn, so it's a nonstop job for this guy.

I did manage to get the switcher circuit laid out for thru-hole parts, but since I have to make a Digikey order soon for an assortment of supplies, I'm going to get SMT components and try my luck with those. I'm also setting up a prototyping station in my shop so that I can quickly do up PCBs in small quantities. It's not a UV exposure system, but it should give pretty good quality results. If nothing else it'll at least be several steps above doing the toner transfer method. I still can't provide any attempt at a "ready by" date. Don't want to leave people hanging, but I'm not letting this little project die either.

 

[nfranco]

Thanks for keeping at it, we'll be here. Enjoy the family!

 

[Christian]

Hi Spook

I have been following this, and congrats with the son!

I hope that when you finally finish this, you'll make a version for thew 24V crowd, my HJ61 got a bad case of needleverticalitis in bothe temp and tank after a longer drive, sooo nice not to know wether you are burning the head or ending wayside with an empty tank ( a ½ hour job just to bleed the diesel system...

SO I'll keep looking for updates!

 

[Spook50]

If the only difference is the primary vehicle voltage being 24V (ie: the fuel and temp gauges get the same output voltage from the regulator and the quad gauge's PCB is the same as the 12V models), then the SS regulator will work just the same for both 12V and 24V vehicles. The switcher will accept a maximum rated 35V input so overvoltage won't be a worry. I would need to confirm that the gauges are the same though before saying for sure whether or not this will also apply to the 24V guys.

 

[Christian]

I think thats the only difference, but what can I do to check?
Would it help if I take some pictures of another 24V quad gauge?

 

[Spook50]

I think thats the only difference, but what can I do to check?
Would it help if I take some pictures of another 24V quad gauge?

Pictures would definitely help. Most importantly I would need to see the backside of the assembly so I could see the layout of the factory PCB and if that matches the 12V trucks, I would just need to see if the part numbers for the actual gauges match (or are at least interchangeable). If I had easy access to someone with a 24V rig, I could easily develop the regulator to be compatible with both voltages. Or if that wasn't feasible a few small changes would likely be all it took to produce a 24V compatible version of the SS regulator.

I've had a couple minitruck folks ask about making a version for those too, so it's cool to see that there's interest in this outside of the 60 series crowd as well.

 

[Spook50]

I've just opened up a GoFundMe campaign in hopes of getting this project moving forward again. Any contributions will help, folks! The link is in my original post.

 

[nfranco]

Done.

 

[Spook50]

Thanks! That alone will let me put together the next prototype. I'm also starting a list of people who contribute $20 or more to get one once I have a batch of the final product, so I've got you down for one.

 

[Spike Strip]

Me done, too.

 

[Spook50]

Outstanding. I just got the parts ordered that I need to put together my next prototype, so as soon as I finish putting together my new etching tank (already got all the parts for that. Just need to finish putting it together and set up an etching station) I can start making progress again. Individual parts are fairly inexpensive so I've got enough on the way to make three prototypes, barring any duds. Circuit-wise these will be identical to the final product, only using thru-hole components so I can easily swap and change components if need be.

Feels good to be moving forward on this again.