Hmmm, that is strange, the link shows several separators, the one I'm interested in is the first one that is all metal. Sorry, not sure why the link works that way. 
PCV inline oil separator..... (1 Viewer)
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Here, I will try to post a pic of this contraption...
That is not the route you want to go, that is for older American V-8's would need modification to fit the 1FZ and you weld a bung in the exhaust where the gasses will be ported, a lot more work than just getting a separator/catch pan
If you do decide to put PCV gasses in the exhaust I would port them in after the cats and last O2 to prevent fouling them, also needs to be built to ensure that a vacuum is created at the outlet so exhaust gasses cannot get into the PCV system
If you do decide to put PCV gasses in the exhaust I would port them in after the cats and last O2 to prevent fouling them, also needs to be built to ensure that a vacuum is created at the outlet so exhaust gasses cannot get into the PCV system
RavenTai said:
Thanks Raven, I did not realize that this was a way to put those vapors and gasses into the exhaust!
I just thought it was an inline oil separator that was made of metal instead of plastic. Thanks for clarifying that. I really would rather not dump to the exhaust at all; I think this is probably more for racing applications as opposed to emissions efforts? Anyway, what I'd rather do, I think, is recirculate any oil accumulation back into the crankcase. Since I'm using M1, I would think that whatever amount of oil I catch in the separator over time would still be relatively good oil, at least as good as the oil still in the engine? To just throw out that oil would be a shame unless somehow that oil is extra contaminated or something? So, I searched around and found another contraption, this one costing a lot more, probably more than I'm willing to spend but if it is a "performance mod" in any way at all, I know I can convince myself a little easier! IOW, if keeping any oil at all out of the intake system and intercooler system would maintain the throttle response for longer, or even better, eliminate regular TB cleanings, then hell, its worth it!!! The other thought, I guess, is to do nothing at all; the tiny amount of dried up oil I saw on the inside of the intake hoses was so minimal that maybe it is nothing to even worry with? Again, any advice is always appreciated. 
http://www.lingenfelter.com/lingenfelter/product.asp?pf_id=591&dept_id=1503
$150 we are talking about a tweak here, not a major mod, don’t spend a lot of money on this, although that does look interesting the price is way to high
The 80’s turbo has an intercooler? Nice!
Turbo you have two paths that oil is getting into the intake stream, hose #1 when at cruise idle or any other time there is vacuum in the intake manifold this is the one that cakes the TB and surrounding areas, , ugly/dirty/disgusting but very long term to cause performance reductions, I would think most of the time this is the path for PCV gasses
the only time you should get oil before the turbo/intercooler is during boost when the PCV valve closes and hose #2 becomes the only outlet, more of a performance drop sooner as the intercooler cakes with insulating funk, but also most of the time this is not the path, for best results you need to do something about both paths or completely divorce the PCV from the intake stream
I had assumed everybody had read the other thread about the PCV but maybe not so here are some good links from that thread
The stock Toyota PCV system (we have the variable flow valve type)
THE "$20 CATCH CAN"
I am still trying to track down a good quality little mini compressed air water separator.. The one referenced in that link is no longer available at Pep-boys. I have heard of people using the $11 Wal-mart one (campbell hausfeld) but I am going to look for something better before using it, @ $11 if I have to replace it every 2 years I am still way ahead.
If you must spend $$$ there are ricer style polished aluminum catch cans for $20-$50
You can make your own for very little $
discussion on different strategy’s for "Oil Catch for PCV system"
I am not sure about putting PCV condensates back in the crank case, re-condensed oil is OK but what about the fuel & water? Both are boiled off when the engine gets to operating temp but If you keep recapturing these and putting them back they will never get out, you may wind up with elevated levels of moisture and fuel in the oil neither are good
In the summer, in the south, on long trips, if the catch was near a hot part of the engine: the fuel and water would probably just pass on through but not sure about in the winter time especially on short trips, not sure what the crossover temp/conditions would be where this stuff would start collecting, you would have to do a UOA on the PCV catching’s to tell if it is safe to re-use
we are talking about a tweak here, not a major mod, don’t spend a lot of money on this, although that does look interesting the price is way to highThe 80’s turbo has an intercooler? Nice!
Turbo you have two paths that oil is getting into the intake stream, hose #1 when at cruise idle or any other time there is vacuum in the intake manifold this is the one that cakes the TB and surrounding areas, , ugly/dirty/disgusting but very long term to cause performance reductions, I would think most of the time this is the path for PCV gasses
the only time you should get oil before the turbo/intercooler is during boost when the PCV valve closes and hose #2 becomes the only outlet, more of a performance drop sooner as the intercooler cakes with insulating funk, but also most of the time this is not the path, for best results you need to do something about both paths or completely divorce the PCV from the intake stream
I had assumed everybody had read the other thread about the PCV but maybe not so here are some good links from that thread
The stock Toyota PCV system (we have the variable flow valve type)
THE "$20 CATCH CAN"
I am still trying to track down a good quality little mini compressed air water separator.. The one referenced in that link is no longer available at Pep-boys. I have heard of people using the $11 Wal-mart one (campbell hausfeld) but I am going to look for something better before using it, @ $11 if I have to replace it every 2 years I am still way ahead.
If you must spend $$$ there are ricer style polished aluminum catch cans for $20-$50
You can make your own for very little $
discussion on different strategy’s for "Oil Catch for PCV system"
I am not sure about putting PCV condensates back in the crank case, re-condensed oil is OK but what about the fuel & water? Both are boiled off when the engine gets to operating temp but If you keep recapturing these and putting them back they will never get out, you may wind up with elevated levels of moisture and fuel in the oil neither are good
In the summer, in the south, on long trips, if the catch was near a hot part of the engine: the fuel and water would probably just pass on through but not sure about in the winter time especially on short trips, not sure what the crossover temp/conditions would be where this stuff would start collecting, you would have to do a UOA on the PCV catching’s to tell if it is safe to re-use
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raven and others, i pic up one of those mini filters from home depot that is exactly like the one from the $20 catch can link
Raven, WoW, thanks man, that was terrificly informative, I'm gonna go through all those links and figure out as much as I can. Yes that Lingefelter model was pricey but so far I have not seen anything else that looks appropriate. I have not seen any of the ricer models like you mentioned. Anyway, like I wrote, as usual, I'm obsessing over something that is a super small problem, its just that if I can find a solution, I'd like to. What I ought to do also is run with my clean hoses for five thousand miles or so and see how much crud, if any, accumulates since the last cleaning; then I'll know a little more about how long it takes to gum up, again, if at all. Thanks for taking the time man I appreciate it.
I like the TRD catch. That would look coooooollllll.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7928491165&category=46098
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7928491165&category=46098
landtoy80 said:
Blingity Blingity Bling BAAAABBBBYYYY!!!!
Turbo 52$ doesn't seem all that bad for a little bling, at least not for a 
.
.
alia176
SILVER Star
There are gazzilion amount of "catch cans" on Ebay. It's tempting just to purchase an Universal unit that's made out of billet Alum with all attachments for $30.
Raven, you going to put it on #1 PCV hose only?
I have oil on both #1 and #2 hoses so I would need two catch cans.
I have oil on both #1 and #2 hoses so I would need two catch cans.
I put it on the #1 hose (the one with the PCV valve) how much oil are you getting in the #2 hose? Is it enough to foul the front side of the throttle plate? I would think most of it is still coming from down the #1 hose
The Amflo had two small holes in the top, I stepped these up to #21 and then tapped for 10-32 screws, made a small bracket that attached it to the large bolt on the side of the intake, had to slightly relieve some casting lines that were in the way
I removed the stickers from the bowl for better vision, had to deal with the gummy stuff
Found the barbs at Lowes, they had the same mini separator as waly-world but under a different brand but Lowes wanted $20 for it instead of $11, the amflo @ HD is the best dhoice of the ones I have seen
I still need to work on the hose routing
I was worried about the white filter causing to much restriction and considered removing it but after installing the separator I pulled the #2 hose and I still get vacuum on the crankcase both at idle and when reved up (no load) so the PCV system is still keeping up with blow by and then some
I think it may be more effective If it were in a cooler area like behind the bumper or in the horn area but I did not want to go through the work to get it there
I'll let you know how much stuff it collects
The Amflo had two small holes in the top, I stepped these up to #21 and then tapped for 10-32 screws, made a small bracket that attached it to the large bolt on the side of the intake, had to slightly relieve some casting lines that were in the way
I removed the stickers from the bowl for better vision, had to deal with the gummy stuff
Found the barbs at Lowes, they had the same mini separator as waly-world but under a different brand but Lowes wanted $20 for it instead of $11, the amflo @ HD is the best dhoice of the ones I have seen
I still need to work on the hose routing
I was worried about the white filter causing to much restriction and considered removing it but after installing the separator I pulled the #2 hose and I still get vacuum on the crankcase both at idle and when reved up (no load) so the PCV system is still keeping up with blow by and then some
I think it may be more effective If it were in a cooler area like behind the bumper or in the horn area but I did not want to go through the work to get it there
I'll let you know how much stuff it collects
What section at the Depot did you find the Amflo?
In the tool corral near the compressors with the other compressor supplies like air hoses and inflators etc.
alia176
SILVER Star
Regardless of where you're purchasing these things from, don't they all boast a screen filter capable of capturing 5 micron size particles? Essentially, all we're purchasing is a simple air/water separator, no? Just curious.
alia176 said:
I am not sure how much the filtration part plays into this application. Most of the oil is caught in the liquid separation part of it, that is done with centrifugal force that flings the heavier fluid droplets to the outside where they stick to the sides and picks up the air in the middle, on the Amflo the inlet in the head is spiral shaped, on the walyworld/lowes version it is done with a plastic ring that has vanes on it to direct the air, these vanes are not very long and do not look as effective, also being a large chamber compared to the PVC line the velocity slows down and gravity gets some also this would be about the same for any of them
Also the Amflo has a milled aluminum head where the waly world is cast, possibly iron/steel but I am not sure, next time I am in there I'll get a magnet and find out
Perhaps these minor differences do not mean anything and one is just as effective as the other but I do not have the time nor $$ to test them side by side so I bought the one that looked the most effective to me
After 56 miles there is a small amount of oil in the bottom of the separator looks like a 1/4 teaspoon or so (WAG)
After 19 days and 935 miles
Think I should have gotten a bigger one, measured out to just under 3 teaspoons of oil and a little bit of water at the bottom (white milky stuff in the bottom), I figured it would hold more that that, I may need to drain it every time I fill up, estimated out that is 1/12th quart every 5K miles, or one quart every 60K miles
The filter is oil stained so it is not 100% efficient, I looked at it often the first few days and then forgot about it for a wile and was surprised by this earlier this week, maybe If I had caught and drained it earlier the filter may have stayed drier
Think I should have gotten a bigger one, measured out to just under 3 teaspoons of oil and a little bit of water at the bottom (white milky stuff in the bottom), I figured it would hold more that that, I may need to drain it every time I fill up, estimated out that is 1/12th quart every 5K miles, or one quart every 60K miles
The filter is oil stained so it is not 100% efficient, I looked at it often the first few days and then forgot about it for a wile and was surprised by this earlier this week, maybe If I had caught and drained it earlier the filter may have stayed drier
You need the TRD big separator.
Then put the small one on PCV hose #2.
Then put the small one on PCV hose #2.
alia176
SILVER Star
Wow, that's some serious oil! Perhaps this is why the "catch can" on Ebay are a much larger in size. Any easy to way to plumb this back in to the system some how?
