Parts that Leave You Stranded

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re_guderian said:
60 issues were design issues, just like the 100, not related to usage - think leaky PS pump right above smog pump that shares belt with water pump. Fortunately, the failure rate of Cruiser parts that leave you stranded is much lower than competitive options.
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Amen on that 60. The manual choke cable has been the worst issue for me. I've never been able to get that thing strung right and it always kinks after 25k miles. Automatic chokes are a wonderful thing.
 
stonepa said:
No, although I wore out the master key and had to use the spare. I was watching for that ignition issue and a few times the lock wouldn't turn. However I wiggled the steering wheel and all was good.
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You don't necessarily feel when it will go, I had no warning when mine broke. The broken switch is a show stopper. Your truck can't even be flat towed, it has to go on a truck or trailer.
 
stonepa said:
I follow the recommended maintenance schedule to the letter. If something looks like it could be catastrophic without warning, and cheap, like the T, then I change it out periodically whether it looked bad or not. Everything else is by inspection and replace if necessary. The only thing I found that fell into that bucket was the starter. I replaced the starter every 75-90k miles. The neutral safety switch was getting a little dodgy on cold mornings but I could overcome that by wiggling the shifter. I would replace that if I was moving back to Alaska but not otherwise. Other than that no issues. The timing belt is a normal maintenance item, as are all the fluids, belts, and hoses. Anyone who has problems in those areas is neglecting their maintenance. Radiators seem to be bulletproof as long as you follow maintenance and power fluff occasionally. Transmission seems to be bulletproof. Front and rear diffs seem bulletproof but I did not abuse them or go rock crawling. AC never even needed a recharge. Radio still worked, even the power antenna (keep it clean and lubed). Sunroof and windows never had any issues either, although the drivers side window was a little slower than when new. Never had any issues with the fuel pump even when using some dodgy third world gasoline. Keep a few extra fuel filters on hand if you are heading too far south of the border. That's it. Some people make it a hobby of worrying about and replacing things on their truck. No issues with that - everyone has their thing. My hobby was driving to cool places and having fun. My LC (and now LX570) is just the tool to get there. My dad taught me to use but take care of tools so that's what I do. Nothing more, nothing less. And it's worked out well for me.
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Your experience is extremely typical, due to the low failure rate of critical items on the 100. But there undoubtedly ARE items that leave 100's stranded, without warning, and without regard to preventative maintenance or usage, that's all I'm saying. You can PM the hell out of your tranny and diff, and as so many here have shown, they'll still blow up, even on pavement (diff). Ignition cylinder is total luck of the draw of if/when it breaks, but it gives zero warning and results in the flatbed tow. It's by far the cheapest "no-warning failure" part to PM, but even then given the low probability of failure combined with the low percentage of out-in-the-boondocks miles that occur, I don't think it makes sense to drop the coin to replace it. I can deal with the tow and slight inconvenience to replace it if and when it breaks. Same with the diff and tranny. And alternator, etc. etc.
 
RobRed said:
I carry a spare ignition cylinder/lock. $175 peace of mind.
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Have you not replaced yours? I've not heard of any of the replacement units failing. Perhaps I'm under the illusion that the replacement was an upgraded part not subject to the original failure mode.
 
RobRed said:
I have not replaced mine yet. I don't see any record of the first owner replacing it - i carry the spare.

At some point I'll likely get to it as PM.
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R&R when it's in one piece isn't too bad of a job on the bench (and assuming you have a drill with metal bits to pull out the security bolts). I thought I'd read where it became much more troublesome to remove after it broke?
 
Here are the items that have given me and/or people I know problems:
> Ignition Cylinder
> Coil packs
> Starter
> HEATER HOSE Ts!!! (many are just now getting to the age where this is becoming a regular issue, and some are losing 2UZs as a result)
> Serpentine belt idler pulley and tensioner pulley
> Fan clutch pulley bracket
> Alternator (to a much lesser extent)
 
RE: Ignition lock cylinder.

The new design is much more robust, I have pictures somewhere but there are plenty on this board.

Replacing the cylinder after it breaks involves removing the steering column, you can screw around for half a day trying to avoid it, but don't bother just pull the EFFER out and get it on the workbench.
 
I have owned my LX 470 since 30K miles and it now has 194,000. The only time I was left stranded was when my Ignition switch cylinder broke at 180,000 miles but luckily it happened at the office.

Only other problems I have had so far were coils (on two separate occassions where truck started missing) and I now have a starter prblem that I will be getting it fixed hopefully next week.

Also would recommend, changing the AHC fluid and keeping the drive shaft lubricated
 
Catastrophic Power Steering leak will also leave you stranded... :(
 
DirtDawg said:
What happened??
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Still in progress, but it started leaking over the weekend at the top of the rack. Rack is original, with 250K on it. It's been seeping for a while. Something must have broken loose inside, and traveled up to the pump, where it is now gushing from. Can't keep enough fluid in there to even drive it. Going to replace rack and pump. I've already put poly bushings in the OE rack, and have a set of whitelines on hand to put in the new rack as well. At this mileage, I'm just going to bite the bullet and replace with new. It did puke everything out and finally bleed out in my driveway, fortunately.
 
re_guderian said:
Still in progress, but it started leaking over the weekend at the top of the rack. Rack is original, with 250K on it. It's been seeping for a while. Something must have broken loose inside, and traveled up to the pump, where it is now gushing from. Can't keep enough fluid in there to even drive it. Going to replace rack and pump. I've already put poly bushings in the OE rack, and have a set of whitelines on hand to put in the new rack as well. At this mileage, I'm just going to bite the bullet and replace with new. It did puke everything out and finally bleed out in my driveway, fortunately.
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Bummer man, if there's one thing I know about toyotas, it's there steering system. Had a similar failure in my 4Runner and by the time I pulled in the drive, fluid was gushing out of the side of my rack.

I will suggest you replace the lines though. Then you have a new system you'll never have to worry about.
 
starter - no noticeable warning, would not start
corroded fuse panel connection under hood, or something like that. - no noticeable warning, would not start

It's so painful to see it towed away like a land Rover....
 
yeti in ga said:
...It's so painful to see it towed away like a land Rover....
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My daughter's been waiting a long time for this moment after all the work we've done on her F350...
PicsArt_10-27-10.43.06.webp
 
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