Parts list for a Chevy ls swap /w auto in a 74/40

[nitroid13]

I'm posting this here Instead of in the 40 sect. There mostly original type stuff. This is my first post over here in the hardcore corner.

My goal here is to have a powerful duel purpose rig. Main focus is budget so I'm attending to the road part first and then get to off-road. I do have a wielder, torch, grinder, drill, and tools. And a fair bit of Knowlage on how to use them

I can get my hands on a take out 5.3, 6.0, or 6.2 with a 4l85e tranny. And if any out there can fill in my parts list on this swap plz feel free to add and if you know a ball park figure on how much the parts are.

I have a Saginaw ps set up and all I need is the pump. I want to use my stock transfer and drive shafts for now. I also have an ez wiring kit installed. Already lifted 4" w/disk brakes all for corners. New booster and master


5.3-6.2) 400~850

4l85e) 200~400

A/a kit) 650

Alum radi.)250ish

Harness mod w/ comp flash )350

Headers) if needed 400 ish

Motor mount kit) 120 from summit

Transfer mount) have

Floor Shifter kit) icon ref 350 ish

Custom air intake kit)200

Tune up engine/trans)~300

Electric fan) 50~100

New duel exhaust) 200~600 can build if pushed

Odds and ends) ~400

Prices are what I think I could get them for.

I know a 5.3 would have more power than one of these trucks needs but as we all know "there's no replacement for displacement" Lol

 

[chicago]

Do yourself a favor and look into a Howell wiring harness.
There are a NUMBER of threads I have read from "inexpensive" harnesses for the LSX motors and there are also a number of horror stories about bad wiring in them.
They are more expensive, but worth it IMO.
Having done this swap a couple years ago, don't be surprised if everything is a lot more than what you're figuring.
It's all the little stuff that really starts to add up.
Fuel pump
Fuel lines and fittings
Trans lines and fittings
Trans cooler
02 sensors
MAF sensor
Not to mention that there are many things that you might want to address "just in case" while you're doing it.
For example, I went ahead and had the trans gone through and re built and up graded.
The injectors (while you have it out and easily accessible) could probably use a re build. Mine were all effed up!!
I tend to be a bit on the "OCD" side, though.

Good luck w/ the build!!
Its a great swap and a beautifully engineered motor!!
Just plan to spend more than you expect.

 

[chicago]

Don't forget about gauges!!
Those lil bastards are spendy too!!

 

[Krazyfj]

aluminum radiator will run you at least $350 and a good quality electric fan with wiring kit will run you another $350 (just did mine) Summit racing.
I would also suggest studying Chicago's build, tons of useful info. I did a 91 chevy 350 TBI, wiring was super easy, no custom harness.

Good luck,

 

[Gumby]

I have a H3 oil pan. I re-worked my stock harness in a couple of hours max. It's really easy. I used a marine fuse panel from Amazon for all the pink ign wires. Early ls corvette manifolds were easy to fit in the frame rails. Cold air intake so it would fit easy. $75 reflash to get rid of emissions, anti-theft and trans controls. Jags that run VSS. Mechanical fan. 2000 LQ4 so it bolts to the 400 without adapter and has cable throttle. 4 core brass radiator. Simple plate adapters to the old 350 mounts. Still have to adjust the drive shafts for the 2" forward shift. In tank fuel pump.

I'm looking to get another one for the pig. It's a great motor.

 

[Gumby]

Buy a complete motor. Don't buy one without the MAF or O2s and especially not without the ECM. They are VIN specific. It will be a lot easier to reflash and make work right if it came with the motor.

Spend some money for a Lokar shifter. You will love it.

Even with the lokar I have >$1000 all in on mine, but it already had a 350 conversion.

 

[nitroid13]

All great ideas guys thx for the info on stuff. But I'm looking into a very late model LS one with cylinder deactivation so I can hook it to a lap top and tune it for power off road and and eco on the road. If they can make a 426+ hemi make 17+ miles to the gallon pushing like 500-700 horse with fast efi, in a 55 Chevy gasser on roadkill. Then I know with the right tune I can get 20+ out of an LS and still have 300-400 horse.

Love these guys the remind me of a few in the cruiser community. Perfect name for that car

 

[Gumby]

My 45 SWB gets 13. I wouldn't expect a whole lot better than 15-17 with a light foot and overdrive for all the reasons listed above. Late model with cylinder deactivation will be throttle by wire so it's a little more complicated than <2000 with a cable. I'd do a cost analysis. How much more money would a new motor cost for a mile or so more per gallon?

My foot is not light. It's too much fun and it makes sexy noises through the Flowmaster.

 

[Gumby]

I looked at the 4.8l for price and maybe less cooling load for the pig. The savings were not worth the torque drop vs the lq4. I looked at the 4.3 for the same reasons. I don't need hp because I have gears, but I just can't justify the loss of torque relative to price.

 

[Gumby]

You could go with 60 thirds to get better mileage. You'd lose crawl, but you're gaining at lot of power so it might not be a big deal.

 

[nitroid13]

I know 40s have the aerodynamics of a brick but so does that 55 Chevy by modern standards. But I drove in high school a 90' short wheel base single cab Chevy 1500. With a 305 and a 5 speed and I could get about 20-22 in it and that truck is just like a brick itself. At 3800-4200 pounds it weighs more than my 74 and I think the plate says 3300 curb and 5400 gross weight. But I think that's with a hard top and all the trimmings and I think mine was a fst because of the stock ties on the quarter and bow support rings/holes just behind the roll bar leg. I still have the Chevy 305 and thinking about rebuilding and useing it but that's trading torque for horse power in stock form.

And question if I swaped it in would it have the same mounting locations as the LS engine?

If so, then I could use it as kinda a mock up swap. I have the bell housing, trans cross member and flywheel(rusty). I think there part of an old aa kit

 

[Gumby]

No. The ls does not have the bellhousing lip that the gen I/II engines did. It moves the drivetrain 2" further forward.

Just saw a take out 3.6l on CL that got my attention. 305 hp/ 285 lbs/ft. A lot lighter and more compact. $1600

You can argue about what you think it should be able to do, but we have the engine in the truck and I can tell you mine gets 13mpg, granted with a th400. I just don't think you're gonna get 20 without tall gears or a diesel.

 

[burnttoastburgos]

I AGREE........go with Howell harness for sure, take the number you originally came up with an x5....seriously, not to bum you but the small stupid stuff adds up over time !! good fortune on your build....

 

[spazz]

I think bang for the buck is just buy the whole truck. then you get everything. sell off all the leftovers. I purchased a 2004 2500 with 6.0 and 4l80e , 86000 mil for 3000.00 kept all the parts I needed + the rear-end and sold the rest. I think I came out about even. its amazing how many little things you will have to scrounge up if you do it the other way.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

Every time someone says "mileage" the only answer is diesel. DOD is an interesting system, but it's for a vehicle that's nearly 1 more FJ40 heavier. It does get those vehicles better mileage, but they still struggle to even get to the low-rent neighborhood of a diesel. What most people don't get is that with a LQ4 motor, you'll get nearly the same mileage if you keep your right foot out of the loud pedal. Same with over drives, extra gears allow motors to stay within the sweet spot better. The reason they need those gears is because they're heavy beasts. A fully loaded '40 weighs about 5k lbs, fully loaded suburbans are nearly 9k.
Let's talk real-world mpg. I've owned several LS motors. The list includes 5.7, 5.3, and a 6.0. Here's what I found. The gen 1 sbc, pre-Vortec, gets the the best mileage. I've had a GTO, I drive an H3 Hummer that weighs 6k lbs - and gets 12 on 35s. Granted, I drive the absolute worst for mpg route (10 miles, huge hills, all rush-hour traffic speeds and no highway)... I get 20 mpg in my 5500 lb 83 4x4 chevy Gale Banks Turbo diesel truck. They both have the same gears and tires (4.10). The GTO should have got the best mileage, but it struggled to get 20, and on my daily commute got 15.

As for wiring. 150tunes.com - for $150 he will take your stock harness and give you 3 wires plus gauges to hook up. For another $150 he will either reprogram your computer or send you a file that you can flash it yourself with your copy of HPTuners. He'll shut off the VATS (security system), and turn off the post-cat sensors.

All in with a 6.0, you should expect 15 mpg, 18 on the highway. With DOD, you could get to 20 if you put a 6L60e transmission behind it.

forgot one thing - there is very little aftermarket support for the DOD system - most support is how to remove it in the theory that no one wants the DOD and the motor is cheaper to buy. GM does not make a stand alone system for the motor, so even the things we know... really isn't that much because no one is playing with them. That should change when the LT1 C7 motor starts trickling throughout the truck fleet... but that will be at least 3 years before it comes to market in any volume that would make the conversion make sense fiscally.