Builds Parked 13 Years Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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-There is some evidence of maybe a valve cover gasket leak
-I plan to perform a cold compression check before firing the engine. This may or may not tell me if a head gasket is bad. Oil looks fine.
-No idea if the sunroof leaks but there is no sign of mildew in the car which I would expect if it does leak.
-Power seats work, drivers leather is... Not great.
-Windows work but they are slow.
valve cover leak can wait as you know since you already drive a mosquito fogger or two.
as stated pressure testing the coolant system might be a more telling story and I am sure that coolant needs flushing.
sun roof doesn't need to be water tight, but the drains need to be clear so they can keep up what might slip past.. having been under a tree, i would check them with some string trimmer cord or the like.
Seat leather.. you can go really nice or pretty nice but cheap... lseat.com did it in my 80 and in the GFs 100... the 100 was 2 weeks ago and that stuff is way nicer than what i put in my 80 couple years back. so something to consider.
Window runners, cleaning window motor (brushes and stator, and cleaning window switch contacts...well the drivers window can be done in an hour or two and get you pretty good. for the rear doors you do not even need to remove the panel and that is about 20 mins for both. Teflon lube might be a good temp fix.
 
That is the plan. Need to order the filler hose, vent hose, sender, and gasket. Should I try my local dealer or does anyone have a recommendation for an online dealer?

you can order it online from a toyota parts dealer or directly from a local dealership, there wont be much in the way of aftermarket parts for the gas tank. if the tank is too rusty to get cleaned id look for a used one as new from the dealership is over 500 for a bare tank. since youll need parts for a truck thats been sitting for that long it may be worth while to go to the dealership and build a relationship with them
 
you can order it online from a toyota parts dealer or directly from a local dealership, there wont be much in the way of aftermarket parts for the gas tank. if the tank is too rusty to get cleaned id look for a used one as new from the dealership is over 500 for a bare tank. since youll need parts for a truck thats been sitting for that long it may be worth while to go to the dealership and build a relationship with them
One of the perks of working where I work is that I pretty much van order from any dealer in the area at a deep discount. With that being said it only brings the price down to what the online dealers charge after shipping if I am lucky...
 
One of the perks of working where I work is that I pretty much van order from any dealer in the area at a deep discount

still better than paying list. while you have the tank out it may be worth your while to replace the brake lines going to the rear of the truck, they will usually start to rust under the retainer clips that hold them to the frame.
 
I will inspect them. There is very little rust on this truck even with a Virginia history. Even the gas tank strap bolts came out without penetrating oil.

Once I get it started I am going to inspect the brakes and possibly change the rubber hoses depending on if they look original or not.

Supposed to get a sender on Tuesday, tank back on Wednesday, and still waiting on the filler hose and tank gasket. Need to get it running and schedule it for VTR-68A inspection so I can apply for the title...
 
Got the tank back today actually. They were able to clean it out about 90% I can still see some stuff behind the baffles but this is actually a really clean tank. I checked the common crack area and it looks okay. Unfortunately they stripped the outside undercoating also so I taped it and hung it in the backyard. Sprayed it with Duplicolor Premium Undercoating after scuffing the surface a bit for better adhesion.

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That tank cleaned up very nice. I just insisted my tank with the same coating on the outside and por15 gas tank sealer on the inside. I hope have time next weekend to to install.

Are you replacing all rubber seals? I could only find the seal for the pump assembly.
 
That tank cleaned up very nice. I just insisted my tank with the same coating on the outside and por15 gas tank sealer on the inside. I hope have time next weekend to to install.

Are you replacing all rubber seals? I could only find the seal for the pump assembly.
I am replacing the pump assembly seal and the fuel filler hoses.

From what I could find the other two seals are discontinued.
 
Yes. That seemed to be the case. I am going to try the wintergreen trick. If that doesn't do the trick ill just use gas safe sealant on the current gaskets.

I'll see if that works.
 
BIG UPDATE:
It ran and drove beautifully!!!

I put the tank back in with a brand new pump, seal, and hoses. Filled it up with 5 gallons of good fuel, pulled the spark plugs and put a bit of ATF down the cylinders...

Cranked it over until the new fuel came out of the inlet of the fuel filter, put new NGK spark plugs in it, buttoned it up and the damn thing started right up. Drove it around the neighborhood and everything works great!

Only stuff not working that I know of is dash lights and the radio antennae is broken off. Rear windows seem to be kind of slow also but that may just be old lube needing to be cleaned out and replaced.

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Spark plugs were very worn but all consistent. Fuel sender/pump were rebuilt with like-new and new parts and new gaskets. Replaced with NGK coppers.

Not a fancy video guy but here is a youtube video with the sound of it and smoke from it after about 2 minutes of running for the first time in 13 years,

 
So electrical issues is why it was parked?
 
Congratulations! That is fantastic! Another one saved.
 
I am glad you got it running and also that you got it before it deteriorated past saving.
 
Update: Drove it around the last few days (about 40 miles total). It drives really well!

Went to take it in to the shop for an inspection, tires, and an oil change (I buy the oil and they change it for like $8 so why not). Pulled up and noticed coolant under the truck.
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I have new upper and lower hoses, belts, etc to go on this thing but hadn't gotten to it yet. Had to purchase this pipe from the dealer and will replace that and start working on the other hoses.

I was able to straighten the bent passenger step out enough with my shop press.

I have it scheduled for a detail.

Stuff that is outstanding:
-Radio Antenna
-Leaks
-Drivers seat
-Detail
-Hoses
-Belts
-Tires
-Muffler
-A/C is not currently working
-Broken head unit display (can't decide if I want to find OEM or go with an aftermarket)
-Broken temp gauge (been using an OBD scanner to monitor it)
-Oil change
 
This sounds like my experience; '96, Emerald Green, parked under a carport since 2009, 143k. Fortunately the 2nd owner (the one who parked it) stored it on blocks, drained the tank and removed the battery. The tires still held air. The reason he bought it and subsequently parked it was a serious rod knock. I changed the plugs, put in a new battery and 2 gallons of fuel and it started. I've had a shop here in Ft Worth doing the build and should be taking delivery in a couple of weeks, a year long process starting with an LS swap and a complete rebuild of drive train and suspension and off-road goodies. Still needs cosmetic restoration, mainly on the outside. I've been able to dress up the inside a little with ne carpet and seat covers.

Depending on what your overall plan is, your build will be interesting to follow. Good luck.
What shop in Fort Worth are you using for the swap?
 
Saw a Jeep Comanche yesterday while leaving work. Made me think of this thread again. Hope all is well with your 80 project.

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