Parasitic battery drain: Proper testing procedure? (1 Viewer)

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Given you get sparks when you close the circuit, likely quite a high current spike and possibly large enough to have blown a fuse in the meter - assuming it has one - else it may have blown a component....

A technique to protect your low current ranges on a meter is to use clips to connect the meter leads to the battery post & battery cable - BUT leave one meter cable not plugged into the meter. Then connect battery cable to post to 'charge' up any initial current drawing devices (big capacitors etc), then plug in cable into meter and then remove the battery cable from the post. The meter will then measure the quiescent draw without having been subjected to the initial charging surge.

Finally, sparks when connecting leads to lead acid batteries (non-sealed units) can be potentially dangerous if there's a build up of hydrogen around the battery...

cheers,
george.

Thanks, I will definitely try that, and I may check on a new meter just cause I would be ok with a little better meter anyway. Also, good info on the sparking hazard, I am using an optima so it is sealed, but I will definitely make sure I keep that in mind on the :princess:'s ride.
 
Pulled this old thread out of the archives. I did an LS swap into a ‘93, a good candidate for a swap cause it already had a bunch of problems.

It has known electrical issues (nothing on the back hatch works, no radio, occasionally no heater blower)

Been fighting to keep the battery charged, as it sits for long periods, and the weather has been freakishly cold
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Trying to test to see if any of the issues is also causing a parasitic draw. If I get .03 on the 10A setting, but can get no reading on any of the mA settings, have I blown my volt/ohm meter previously?
 
Open up meter and check the fuses. There'll be one for the 10A range and one for the mA range. Likely you've blown the mA range fuse.

I presume you have the meter in SERIES with the battery connection to measure current? Also, best to measure first with the 10A range to make sure there's not a crazy high draw. If reasonable, then measure on the mA range.

cheers,
george.
 
Gees, I don’t understand electricity !!

Trying to follow the recommendations in the thread. Bridge the positive terminal and the positive lead with the multimeter set to 10A to first test for an abnormally large draw.

I get -0.02 From what I understand, this is reasonable but not precise.

I then switch the red probe to the mA terminal, and test again with the multimeter set to one of the mA positions .....and promptly blow the fuse in my multimeter

What am I doing wrong? Would this work any better if I did my testing on the negative terminal ?
 
Well, if the fuse blows then it is momentarily drawing more than the fuse rating....

I MUCH prefer to perform current measurements using a DC clamp meter.

cheers,
george.
 
Well, if the fuse blows then it is momentarily drawing more than the fuse rating....

I MUCH prefer to perform current measurements using a DC clamp meter.

cheers,
george.
George: Do you have a recommendation for a "proper" DC Clamp meter? I'm guessing a Fluke.......
 
George: Do you have a recommendation for a "proper" DC Clamp meter? I'm guessing a Fluke.......

Did you try searching?
Sorry - couldn't help it.

 
Did you try searching?
Sorry - couldn't help it.

I deserved that!

I searched! Honestly! ;)
 

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