Parasitic draw issue (1 Viewer)

[jonheld]

As George stated above, to get an accurate reading the positive lead (red) should be plugged into the mA terminal on the meter, the positive lead should be on the battery terminal, and the selection dial should be rotated to the 200mA to start as you're expecting a larger draw.
As previously stated, the total current draw should be in the 20-30mA range with NOTHING on, doors closed, etc.

You could also download the manual for your meter as a first step.

 

[culturedredneck]

Thanks Jon,

The way you describe testing it is exactly how I originally started, as that made the most sense to me. When I test it like that (red lead in center mA terminal and dial set to 200mA) the meter doesn't read anything. By that I mean it doesn't read 00.0 it flashes some numbers super fast and then reads "- . " which to me meant it was an incorrect setting. I researched some more and saw a few recs to try it the way I showed ( with the red terminal in the 10A spot) and that gave me the consistent reading of .02. Maybe my meter is messed up, or there is something else going on. Unfortunately its an old meter with no brand name anywhere on it, so I cant find a manual for it. Ive just been resorting to youtube videos. It might be time to pick up a more reliable meter as well.

I'll retest the way you suggested with another meter and see what that says.

 

[jonheld]

Thanks Jon,

The way you describe testing it is exactly how I originally started, as that made the most sense to me. When I test it like that (red lead in center mA terminal and dial set to 200mA) the meter doesn't read anything. By that I mean it doesn't read 00.0 it flashes some numbers super fast and then reads "- . " which to me meant it was an incorrect setting. I researched some more and saw a few recs to try it the way I showed ( with the red terminal in the 10A spot) and that gave me the consistent reading of .02. Maybe my meter is messed up, or there is something else going on. Unfortunately its an old meter with no brand name anywhere on it, so I cant find a manual for it. Ive just been resorting to youtube videos. It might be time to pick up a more reliable meter as well.

I'll retest the way you suggested with another meter and see what that says.

The fast blinking of the display likely means over current or "out of range" for the setting. If that's the case, then you're pulling way more than you should.
However, you should retest with a new meter and compare results.

 

[culturedredneck]

Update: New meter acquired and I'm now getting an accurate reading. Not sure what was wrong with the old meter, but even with a fresh fuse it wasn't able to give me a reading.

 

[ppc]

The difference could be that your previous meter did not have an automatic range selection like most quality meters now have.

 

[ozarkmud]

So the draw is 23 milliamps? Is that correct?

 

[jonheld]

So the draw is 23 milliamps? Is that correct?

That's what I see when I look at that picture. I'm assuming the negative lead is on the disconnected positive battery clamp.
Typical quiescent draw should be between 20-30 mA.

 

[man0fsteel]

Update: New meter acquired and I'm now getting an accurate reading. Not sure what was wrong with the old meter, but even with a fresh fuse it wasn't able to give me a reading.


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Did you end up finding the parasitic draw? I'm at the same level as you when it comes to using my meter and diagnosing my parasitic draw. (Thanks to Jon and others here, they've given me homework to bone up on). My draw with doors closed, everything off was 32.77mA. That's just a tad above what the smarter folks here say is within the acceptable 'good' range.

The green light around my ignition key also turns off when the doors close,