Painting engine, engine bay and other parts in there...any advice

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Dec 2, 2009
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Tomball, Texas
So we got into the engine bay this weekend. We started removing the wire harness, fenders, brackets and such.

The radiator is full as is the oil in the engine. I'd like to pull these items out and get them cleaned up, but I could use some suggestions. How do you drain the radiator and what do I do with the liquid.

Also, I'm replacing the brake booster and master cylinder, do I need to drain the brake fluid, and how do i do that?

I have removed the valve cover and cleaned and painted it, should I take the pistons out and clean them or just leave them as they are?

We picked up a Chrysler Orange for the engine, or does anyone have a better color to use?
 
Black is a better color.
LOL, leave the pistons where they are (are you serious?).
Valve on bottom of radiator - take coolant to recycle center or Pep-Boys or similar
Don't drain brake fluid but bleed after install.
 
I agree with Adax, go with black. especially with an old 2F, you'll be see black smudge marks all over the orange. Get yourself a brake bleeder pump from harbor freight. When I did my brake master cylinder i thought the booster was bad, but in fact it was fine. When the seal leakes from the master you get fluid all over the booster and it appears to have a leak when it doesn't. The master is real easy to change out, if your not absolutely sure the booster is bad i would only do the master and see if that solves your problem since new boosters are expensive.
 
Pick up a factory service manual or at least a Chiltons or similar.

Those are some odd questions for somebody restoring a vehicle.

And, why would you want to paint an engine orange unless it was a Chrysler or a Chevy?
 
personally if you are asking about taking out the pistons and cleaning them maybe you should leave stuff alone till you read alot or have someone else do it...... also if you dont know how to drain radiator (ie take bottom hose off) once again please and i do say PLEASE read something first. have a nice day and GOOD LUCK
 
The radiator is full as is the oil in the engine. I'd like to pull these items out and get them cleaned up, but I could use some suggestions. How do you drain the radiator and what do I do with the liquid.
?


PLEASE make sure you put your used antifreeze and fluids in a 5 gallon bucket w/ lid , You do not want your dog or any pets around this. It will kill them.
 
I would paint the pistons the same color as the rest of the vehicle :popcorn:

Jonny

:lolz:

Duplicolor engine enamel low gloss black available at NAPA in rattle cans.
 
Is that a flat, semi gloss, or gloss black. I am getting close to painting my engine

Google sea foam or search here if you want to clean your pistons!! It was recommended to me and after a little googling I will get getting some once my engine is running and I can put it in the driveway.

Any pictures of this work? I am sure there are. Might be good for us to help you and verify you took off the valve cover and not the head, if you took off the head to see the pistons you probably need some good help to get it back on.
 
Are you saying you'd like to pull the engine as well to clean it up?
You got a bit further to go to get to the pistons and I wouldnt mess with the head unless your planning for a rebuild. Youll need a new head gasket if you remove the head. Or were you speaking of dropping them out the bottom. Either way, I WOULDNT DO IT.

Definately read up, educate yourself and boost your confidence by knowing what your getting into before you get there. Granted I have never been inside an engine, but just rebuilt my 2F by reading instructions, FSM's, and post here on mud. Plan to take longer than you expected and its much easier with a friend but possible solo :D

goivango021.jpg


What kind of project are you into, give us some more info perhaps. Restoration? Quickie clean? wheeler?

My 55 has a draincock on the radiator w/ ball valve that is simple to turn open w/ your fingers and drain into a bucket. Two hoses and 4 bolts on the side and the radiator slides up and out.

Removing wiring harness= take lots and lots of pictures

Good advice on brakes above. replace parts and flush afterwards. Replace only what you need first.

X2 on black for the motor. I like my pizazz but in a year it will be inappreciable and dirty anyways. Make sure you use heat resistant etcher or primer if you do and cover all the important stuff. I painted mine while in pieces in the garage and the block on the motor stand. 50 bux in paint but 3 colors too.
 
Black is a better color.
LOL, leave the pistons where they are (are you serious?).

Black is the color I am painting my 2F. Orange on a Cruiser just wouldn't look right.

Pick up a factory service manual or at least a Chiltons or similar.

Get the Factory Sevice Manual (FSM) you can order them directly from Toyota 800-622-2033. I think you can get the body/chassis and engine manual for under $100 and its well worth it.

I would paint the pistons the same color as the rest of the vehicle :popcorn:
Please realize he is joking.

Those are some odd questions for somebody restoring a vehicle.

personally if you are asking about taking out the pistons and cleaning them maybe you should leave stuff alone till you read alot or have someone else do it......

People are making comments like this because based on the questions you are asking you seem to be in a little over your head. Please don't take it the wrong way. We want to see you wrench on you FJ40 and learn more about it and Mud is the perfect place for this. We don't want to see you get frustrated in have you truck in pieces for years only to eventually sell it. Good luck.
 
LOL! But really be careful how much you bite off... A simple engine swap turned into an engine compartment restorification! (NOT restoration) I got a bad case of the "what else should I do while I'm in here"s. As some mentioned above, it will be important to have a good idea about general auto mechanics if you're going to be pulling things apart like brakes and engines- not to say a bit of overly zealous determination won't help you learn- just be careful as sometimes things come apart very easily and tend to cost $ and :crybaby: when they don't go back together so well. As for sugesstions, my radiator valve did not open, so get a large diameter shallow container to catch the spill when you give up and just pull the lower hose (or you'rs will open right up:hillbilly:). As stated, take ALL used auto fluids to a checkers or other parts supplies place/oil changers (I'll put my brake, p/s and auto trans HYDRAULIC together, coolant seperate, and oil/gear oil together) They'll usually only take up to a certain amount per visit, so call first. The oil is straight forward- get good at it. Plug on bottom rear of pan, oil fiter is just messy- deal w/it. Spin on filter goes on as tight as you can get it by hand (drink a can of man if you're not used to torquing on things w/ your bare didgits). Don't forget to wipe a BIT of oil on the rubber lip of the new filter first. Be ABSOLUTELY SURE on your brake hydraulics. Bleed them like your- and everyone you'll be driving next to/around-life depends on it. It does. If you're not sure on this- pay a pro. Again, don't drain brake, just bleed. And catch the brake fluid. Start bleeding w/ the furthest point from the master cylinder, based on length of line, then work back to master. Bench bleed the master first. When you say valve cover, are you refering to the cover on the side? If so, those are lifters you see. Don't let water or solvents or debris fall into this area. The pistons are deep in the block and can only be seen w/ the oil pan off, or head removed. Don't go there unless you're doing a complete rebuild. Painting for vanity is not a good enough reason to drop the pan or pull the valve cover or side cover w/o understanding what you're getting into. Just clean the motor w/ rags and brushes, cover it and clean, prep and paint the engine bay around it. Paint the rest of it if you ever need to do a rebuild. I ONLY did the amount of work on my rig since the motor had to come out anyway. It is a good idea to plan out repairs that can be done in clusters, just be weary of how deep you can get.
 
if your pulling your motor, pull it out with the tranny and tcase, will be much easier than splitting up the drivetrain.

the radiator just drain, all the coolant lines tho will make a mess so just be aware and don't be laying below it when you do it.

as for brake line and switching out the master and brake booster, just top it off to the right level, bleed, repeat.
 
I think I forgot the welcome mat...:flipoff2:( nooby salute) Welcome to the club (self help group/12 step plan) I forgot to suggest to change ALL the rubber hoses for the cooling system while you've got the radiator drained. That falls under an ounce of prevention...HIGH QUALITY hoses clamps are a good place to spend money.
 

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