Remove sound matting
with an air chisel. Takes maybe 15 minutes for both sides, super easy!
with an air chisel. Takes maybe 15 minutes for both sides, super easy!
PAINT - Clearcoat or single stage
- Thread starter Elk Hunter
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I just can't bring myself to put base coat/clear coat on my 40. Not that it is not a top quality painting system, it's just like going to a party way overdressed. Some minor depth in shine and that little bit-o-orange peel that is almost natural with a single stage urethane, is what IMHO, a 40 looks best in. On the other end of the spectrum, if I were painting on the wifies 97 40th in sage....wouldn't think of anything but base coat/clear coat. Just my .02.
Nothing beats a real clearcoat. I have one vehicle with a high quality single stage paint (ChromOne) and after 5 years, the red paint color has faded. I also noticed on the leading edge that the paint chips worse than the dual stage paint.
So, if you want to do it once and do it right, use a dual system. If you want to keep a matte look, they do make low luster clear. Dual system is a painting system, not a typical finish result.
Happy Hunting.
So, if you want to do it once and do it right, use a dual system. If you want to keep a matte look, they do make low luster clear. Dual system is a painting system, not a typical finish result.
Happy Hunting.
Yes and Yes... Red and Silver fade like a bitch. The PPG level I used did have some UV protection in the paint. Nothing last for ever in the sun 
We painted my wife's '88 FJ62 in single stage. Back to that beautiful medium blue. Man that paint job came out fawkin' beautiful. High luster like base/clear. We kept it waxed and it stayed beautiful for several years until we sold it a while back. Still looked like it just came out of the paint shop.
Now, saying that.... I probably wouldn't do it again. Ha!! so there. For a DD like hers, base/clear is the way to go. For Buddy, my trail rig.... Maaco or rattle can
That single stage on the 62 cost a pretty penny too. Full exterior paint, removed all trim, glass, bumpers, etc. Very thorough job. $3k+. Yikes!! She loved it though, that's what matters.
Jody.
Now, saying that.... I probably wouldn't do it again. Ha!! so there. For a DD like hers, base/clear is the way to go. For Buddy, my trail rig.... Maaco or rattle can
That single stage on the 62 cost a pretty penny too. Full exterior paint, removed all trim, glass, bumpers, etc. Very thorough job. $3k+. Yikes!! She loved it though, that's what matters.
Jody.
I've been happy with my single stage as shown here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=30807
It has held up well the last 5 years, I have only waxed it twice, and it is still glossy. It has been through some tight trails, and is pin striped, yet you are hard pressed to see it unless you look closely.
RM Eurethane Freeborn 309. Red is supposed to fade quite easy and it has not so far.
gb
It has held up well the last 5 years, I have only waxed it twice, and it is still glossy. It has been through some tight trails, and is pin striped, yet you are hard pressed to see it unless you look closely.
RM Eurethane Freeborn 309. Red is supposed to fade quite easy and it has not so far.
gb
I have to chime in on this as I'm about to start the same project...
I have bought DuPont Nason ful-cryl AE for the top and PPG MAE Omni AE for the body. Everyone is talking about eurethane. Is there any advantage of eurethane over acrylic enamel?
I have bought DuPont Nason ful-cryl AE for the top and PPG MAE Omni AE for the body. Everyone is talking about eurethane. Is there any advantage of eurethane over acrylic enamel?
RedGreen said:
Check the data sheets. I believe that it is generally accpeted that urethanes are more durable (and flexible) than enamels. OEM vehicles are coated with urethanes now, that should tell you something.
I painted my vehicle with a single stage epoxy (I used PPG). My vehicle is primarily used for the trail, so I was thinking of repairing scratches. It takes a lot more work to repair a clear coated panel (you would have to sand off the existing clear coat completely before recoating the area). I have had no issues with gloss.
Just make sure you study the data sheets and use the recommended primer for best film adhesion. If you are having someone paint it for you, make sure you get the data sheets before he starts so you know what you're getting for the money.
Good luck
buckroseau
May I have another!!!
Acrylic enamel is more old school. Back in the 70's and probably into the 80's that's probably what most if not all body shops used. Then single stage urethanes and base/clear hit the scene and pretty much took over.
The basic difference is that acrylic enamels are derived from oil and solevents, that is the base of the paint. Urethanes are man made and derived from Plastics. The advantage to AE's is that they are cheaper and safer to spray. AE's contain less isocynates than single stage urethanes. The advantage to urethanes is that they will last longer, disadvantage is that they contain more isocynates. Most people are unaware of the isocynate thing, and it is probably blown out of porportion. Technically you should where a fresh air supplied respirator with either, but usually no one does.
They both will spray the same, and after you finish they will pretty much look the same. But, in the end a urethane paint will last longer. Your main advantage is that you save a few bucks and probably added a few minutes to your life.
Hope this helps, Matt
The basic difference is that acrylic enamels are derived from oil and solevents, that is the base of the paint. Urethanes are man made and derived from Plastics. The advantage to AE's is that they are cheaper and safer to spray. AE's contain less isocynates than single stage urethanes. The advantage to urethanes is that they will last longer, disadvantage is that they contain more isocynates. Most people are unaware of the isocynate thing, and it is probably blown out of porportion. Technically you should where a fresh air supplied respirator with either, but usually no one does.
They both will spray the same, and after you finish they will pretty much look the same. But, in the end a urethane paint will last longer. Your main advantage is that you save a few bucks and probably added a few minutes to your life.
Hope this helps, Matt
RedGreen said:
I used a single stage paint a couple of years ago and have been happy so far. I just use it for off roading. I will try to add a pic or two. Bill
That Is Too Much Work!
Try a propane torch or a heat gun from the back side, might keep a fire extinguisher handy, clean the grease off first, it softens the tar on the underside and it peels right off, without any scratches or scrapes on the metal, don't burn yourself either. If you aren't sure about it try it on the tranny cover. Clean up remnants with solvent or light scraping.
AlaskanWheeler said:
Try a propane torch or a heat gun from the back side, might keep a fire extinguisher handy, clean the grease off first, it softens the tar on the underside and it peels right off, without any scratches or scrapes on the metal, don't burn yourself either. If you aren't sure about it try it on the tranny cover. Clean up remnants with solvent or light scraping.
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AlaskanWheeler said:
I used a high presure washer to get it off. It worked great!
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Here is a pic of mine. I did the stripping and some prep work but I had a bodyshop paint it using single stage PPG to the stock color. It came out great and still looks new after 1 1/2 years. Some pics of the work are here: painting 1982 FJ40Elk Hunter said:
i went single stage, but if i had the time nay money i would have gone clear coat.
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
AlaskanWheeler said:
Go to your local dry ice supplier and get a couple pounds, and some well insulated gloves to handle it and place chunks of the dry ice on the sound insulation on the floor boards. do something else for about 10 minutes and return with a hammer and paint scraper. the dry ice makes the tar stuff really brittle and it will pop of the metal underneath with a good strike from the hammer. Its not a fast process, but it works very well.
