- Thread starter
- #81
…I’m already poking around for a blue onyx on terra cotta. My connection with Pacific Blue stems from growing up in my godparents blue FJ60. Man this is tearing me up!
Guy
P0335…to a bent valve (update...and it's not good) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter liv2bike
- Start date
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Guy
bloc
SILVER Star
That’s the only color combo that would make me pass on a gray on terra.
Throw some bronze wheels on blue onyx and delete most of the chrome? Epic.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
I’ve been following this since the first post and not the outcome anyone wanted for you for sure. Hopefully you can figure out something that works out well.
Question since there are a lot of eyes on this thread…is there anything that can be done preventative maintenance-wise that can prevent something like this?
Question since there are a lot of eyes on this thread…is there anything that can be done preventative maintenance-wise that can prevent something like this?
Replace the springs with updated part numbers.
- Thread starter
- #85
Yep. And there are upgraded valve spring kits out there with titanium retainers
I keep seeing these pop up when searching 3UR-FE valve springs. It’s a Manley valve spring kit with titanium retainers for the 3UR. But wouldn’t this application be more suitable if supercharging? Not for someone just wanting to perform preventative maintenance? I think I’d still go with the updated OEM valve springs.
- Thread starter
- #87
I've poked around some. A few that keep popping up include Fraser Engines and Transmissions and Phoenix Engine Specialists. Both offer reman 3UR-FE crate engines. Remanufactured makes me nervous. But I know it's nothing new. I'm going to let Overland Cruisers do their homework first and see what they come up with. But yes, these are options and looks like $8-$10k is typical. Haven't dug too deep yet WRT to warranties they offer. That's a factor too.
The 3UR is designed to be rebuilt 3 times. I think first time is a light honing, second time is boring 0.010 over, second time is slightly larger boring, but don't quote me on the specifics. I'll have to find that article, but if the shop is highly rated I wouldn't have an issue with a reman engine.
Sooner or later there will be LS swap kits for these.
It becomes a choice between buying remanufactured of possibly unknown parts and quality or getting a good core and fresh up that. Since finding the good core would be difficult would you think tearing down a remanufactured would be redundant?
If I bought an engine remanufactured I wouldn't tear it down and rebuilt it again. The point of paying for a reman one is that someone else has done the tear down and refresh and everything should be in working order. Might they have used cheaper parts that don't last as long? Sure but that's a problem you deal with 5, 10, or 15 years down the road.
If I felt like I had to tear it down and inspect everything myself I'd just look for a used motor from a wrecked vehicle at that point. I can't see paying the premium for a motor you're just going to tear apart.
Anecdotal, but I put a reman motor in my '66 Mustang and it ran for 4+ years before I sold the car, zero issues with that engine. (I'd also rebuilt the engine myself before that but though it ran that effort didn't go as well as I'd hoped).
Obviously a reman 3UR in 2024 is a lot more expensive than a reman 302 in 1995, but I think the principle of "find a reman shop with good ratings and just trust it" is a fair path. If you're really concerned about parts used or future valve spring failures or other potential problems then I'd look for the cheapest wrecked vehicle motor I could find and a shop I really trust to do a full tear down/rebuild. Not sure if I was in this situation what I'd do.
I’m in the boat of just find a used low mile tundra 3UR and throw that in (with swapping some of the exterior long block specific components over). Then you don’t need to dig into it and have room for error from the reman shop. (Everything should be torqued correctly from the factory then) Thankfully we are still in a time when we can find used low mile motors from wrecked tundras.
Agree.
Not a perfect solution, but for this scenario; there isn't really a perfect solution.
- Thread starter
- #94
Nope...from my POV, there isn't a good solution. I am not opposed to a Tundra or Sequoia 3UR. I'm trying not to get hung up on the fact that Tundra and Sequoia 3UR's aren't made in Japan like our 200-Series 3URs. It's how to verify functionality ie compression and such. Especially if it's not local to the shop. Preferably it's a wrecked truck with a running motor that was wrecked in the rear. So many other questions like maintenance history and what not. But with the VIN, some of these mysteries can be solved.
I would trust a factory sealed 3UR that’s American made over a remanned 3UR that’s Japanese.
The American 3UR’s are great motors that easily last to 300k miles… just try and find one post 2011-2013ish to avoid the bad valve spring problems.
The American 3UR’s are great motors that easily last to 300k miles… just try and find one post 2011-2013ish to avoid the bad valve spring problems.
Does anyone know when they fixed the FIPG issue on the 3UR? Was that 2014-2015 ish?
Is there any projected interval or hours? Interested in a link or extract where you seen this.
Moby
GOLD Star
I seem to remember reading the same about the 1FZ - designed to be rebuilt 3 times.
Moby
GOLD Star
I wish I could be sure that the updated Toyota springs don't have the same problem... Making the assumption that the updated springs on my 2020 addresses this helps me sleep at night.
