P0333 and other weirdness after baselining diff fluids

[aqualung]

Picked up a nice 2006 LX470 few months back. Finally got around to baselining diff fluids this week. Did rear diff Sunday, test drive - no issues. t-case yesterday, test drive and she's throwing CEL P0333, trac/vgrs are off (as in pic below). I believe the truck is now in "safe mode"? Tried clearing the fault several times, it just comes right back.

I went ahead with front diff oil change today just because I wanted to be done with this nasty stuff.

Separately, I started hearing this cricket sound (this video) couple days ago.

Also lately, since greasing the drive shaft, I noticed when getting out of the truck, there is a distinct burning smell, seems to be from the rear. Apparently this can be normal?

Today when driving in this "safe mode", the truck has lost all it's torque. Engine is revving nicely but the car is lifeless and seems to lag. Additionally, when I let off the accelerator, feels like there is some kind of "brake drag" on the vehicle. I am not touching the brake though.... feels almost like when parking brake is accidentally on.

Appreciation in advance for any help you guys can offer....

 

[2001LC]

"Po333" Most times knock sensor failure is do to rodents living under intake manifold. They love chewing the knock sensor wire. With a drain snake camera, it's possible to see under intake manifold of VVT engine.

Knock sensor wire cut, what do I do HELP

Mickey & Minnie nesting in the engine valley, snacked on the wire(s). With a P0325 (knock sensor #1 bank #1) and a visual inspection. I was able to confirm at least one wire is cut. I was thinking I'd just splice the wire, possible adding a small section if need be. The I realized this is a...

forum.ih8mud.com

"cricket sound" is typically drive belt (serp) idler and/or tensioner pulley bearings. Remove belt and spinn.

Idler & Tensioner Pulley Bearings, Drive belt (AKA Serpentine or fan belt)

Hey guy's anyone found a good source for the bearing of the: drive belt Idler Pulley part # 16604-0F010. The Bearing in it is a NSK BD20-15DUL: Edited 9/24/2019 Is a drive belt pulley bad: Sound is first alter bearing of pulley(s) may be going bad. To make sure which are bad remove the belt...

forum.ih8mud.com

"distinct burning smell" After baseline which I include lubing Aft & forward propeller shafts and spiders (6 points). I always get a burning smell for few hundred miles more or less. From grease sling on exhaust. Additional hot CATs tick when cooling.

"Feels like there is some kind of "drag" on the vehicle when letting off accelerator - almost like parking brake was left on.
While on accelerator, torque is all but lost, engine is revving but truck feels totally lifeless."
Not knowing what it felt like before baseline than after or knowing what services done, I can't say much. But sounds a bit like transmission fluid not properly service. But could be vacuum leaks or a host of other issues. Perhaps even knock sensor related. But in older non VVT, I've not notice issue other than CEL on with Knock sensor off line. VVT is not sluggish at all. They have a lot of pep. Most of any US 100 series.

 

[aqualung]

Thanks @2001LC - I just greased propellor shaft and spiders. Burning smell makes sense now.

I think I can manage the serp belt.

I updated my post a bit. I've not done much else yet to baseline besides these drive shaft and diffs. I think sluggishness is due to "safe mode". It was amazingly powerful before.

Borescope idea sounds interesting. I will have to look into it.

 

[aqualung]

Collected some techstream data - anything telling here?

 

[jerryb]

the 3 knock values in your techstream shot look like normal numbers after a reset/ battery pull.
I have never looked to see what the numbers look like while the 0333 is current.

The safe mode effect is that brake drag, no torque feeling. It's ignition related and it's suppose to feel like that.

It might be a good idea to make short trips a few blocks here and there and leave the 0333 current and see if anything else come up with it. Other things can be two trip malfunctions and if you clear the knock code they won't have a chance to show themselves or possible they would get missed because they are pending. They can absolutely be related.
I'd switch gas stations immediately and if you're full just add your highest grade to average up whenever you can.

hopefully it is just a wire issue at the sensor. Even then I bet someone charges 1000. Don't replace the knock sensors themselves just because a guy says you should. You should probably move on if someone says that at first meeting. The vvti sensors are more expensive.
Pay someone to look at the wiring only at the sensors first, then go from there. There are a ton of things you should replace if you don't have a history on the car and you get to a point where the intake is off.

 

[aqualung]

The safe mode effect is that brake drag, no torque feeling. It's ignition related and it's suppose to feel like that.

I figured as much, thanks for confirming.

It might be a good idea to make short trips a few blocks here and there and leave the 0333 current and see if anything else come up with it. Other things can be two trip malfunctions and if you clear the knock code they won't have a chance to show themselves or possible they would get missed because they are pending. They can absolutely be related.

Great idea, I will definitely do this.

I'd switch gas stations immediately and if you're full just add your highest grade to average up whenever you can.

I've been putting in premium from Costco since I picked up the truck, just put in a full tank last week. Maybe I should try somewhere else.

hopefully it is just a wire issue at the sensor. Even then I bet someone charges 1000. Don't replace the knock sensors themselves just because a guy says you should. You should probably move on if someone says that at first meeting. The vvti sensors are more expensive.
Pay someone to look at the wiring only at the sensors first, then go from there.

Great advice, thanks!

There are a ton of things you should replace if you don't have a history on the car and you get to a point where the intake is off.

Truck was dealer-serviced regularly according to LexusOwners. Just had TB done a few months before I got it. What else would I look to replace with intake off?

 

[aqualung]

Since I just bought the truck back in August (from an area BMW dealer) and put less than 1000 miles on it since, I figured it was worth a call to the dealership manager.

I wasn't expecting much really, as I bought a used car with no warranty.

Turns out dealership manager is stand-up guy and he had the truck towed to his service center for inspection. They are removing the intake manifold today to look for rodent/wire damage to sensors/harness and he seems to indicate they will replace knock sensors/harness or whatever is needed.

Fingers crossed.... will update on progress.

 

[jerryb]

OO that makes me shiver. Ask for pics of the wiring repair and any part numbers they use.
I'd like to watch a used car lot jump starting guy get the intake off.
I'm praying for you

 

[aqualung]

This is what they said they found. And now they want me to pay $1,418.13 with parts, tax, and labor.

 

[jerryb]

they sort of got you don't they. It doesn't look that bad. That's probably mostly labor I'm guessing. Odd they'd sell a unit that couldn't pass inspection/emissions.
Being shady like that would make me tow it to my house and finish it.
They probably aren't even going to really clean out the intake either.
I'd watch them like a hawk if you pay them.
Good luck.
Even @90 and hour that seems pretty high. It should go on and off in 3 hrs. and maybe 2 hrs of fixing.
Too bad your not in florida.

 

[aqualung]

they sort of got you don't they. It doesn't look that bad. That's probably mostly labor I'm guessing. Odd they'd sell a unit that couldn't pass inspection/emissions.
Being shady like that would make me tow it to my house and finish it.
They probably aren't even going to really clean out the intake either.
I'd watch them like a hawk if you pay them.
Good luck.
Even @90 and hour that seems pretty high. It should go on and off in 3 hrs. and maybe 2 hrs of fixing.
Too bad your not in florida.

Yeah - I will be calling back to the GM. Not at all what he indicated to me would happen.

With nest like that I don't know if that can happen in 3 short months. But from their perspective, if damage was done sooner (while they owned it), wouldn't I have gotten the P0333 CEL sooner?

I dunno. This all sucks.

Are those exposed holes valves? Shouldn't they be covered with a rag or something to keep debris dirt and other crap falling in?

I also want to be replacing the starter and secondary air injector while in there. Maybe I tow back to my local shop or even heaven forbid dealer.

 

[jerryb]

yes they should be covered.
yes the moment the two wires, or one got cut there would have been an event. At least from memory now I think it's a one trip detection.
If you're doing other things while it's off I'd tow it to someone you know- after they cover the intake valves.
Make sure you get all the parts.

 

[aqualung]

yes they should be covered.
yes the moment the two wires, or one got cut there would have been an event. At least from memory now I think it's a one trip detection.
If you're doing other things while it's off I'd tow it to someone you know- after they cover the intake valves.
Make sure you get all the parts.

@jerryb - appreciate the input on this. Spoke to GM, used my negotiation skills and we agreed this is a gray area on ownership, he is going to cover $1000 in cost - seems fair to me. Here is what they intend to replace:


Intake Gasket 77.20
Throttle Gas 13.29
Shrink Hoses and Wiring connections- 104.60
Vacuum Line 15.60
Labor $1189.31

Was planning to add starter and maybe secondary air injection pump (per my local shops recommendation).

I also found out my insurance covers rodent damage (and I always keep a $250 or less deductible) - I might go that route as well.

I am planning to have them replace starter for sure, maybe secondary air pump. You gave me a nerd-out list in another thread - what besides starter is essential?

 

[jerryb]

intake gaskets are 7$ a side. I think they think something else. throttle body gasket is 2$ double those prices for dealer price, i guess?
injector seals bottom and top.
bare essentials I think, crush washers, can't think of anything else.

 

[aqualung]

intake gaskets are 7$ a side. I think they think something else. throttle body gasket is 2$ double those prices for dealer price, i guess?
injector seals bottom and top.
bare essentials I think, crush washers, can't think of anything else.

All good, they will cover the labor - I won't hassle them on parts inflation. Word to the wise - sometimes it pays to spend a little extra to deal with reputable businesses.

In the meantime, I was able to grab the Lexus Owners records and subsequently the dealer records too - looks like secondary air pump was already replaced. No record of starter replacement though. Although the tech is telling me now that he found the broken off vent hose of a starter in the valley, so he thinks it was replaced. But again, no record of it and this truck has been all dealer serviced at the same place which keeps these records. Seems a Lexus dealership ought to know about changing out the starter, based on the issues with it. Then again, they also did TB+pump at the same mileage and didn't think to advise on radiator change - which now has some tiny cracking - so I'll be replacing that.

By these records, this truck was babied in every which way - really happy with my purchase overall. I knew it was a one-owner elderly couple but it's nice to have the paperwork to back it all up. Peace of mind FTW.

@jerryb - on starter, is it a rip+replace, or rebuild? Just part 28100-50101? Or is there more to it? Either way, I'm just gonna let the current shop handle it while it's all opened up - just don't wanna get murdered on their inflated pricing.....

 

[jerryb]

starters are cheap. But I'm sure there are people that have a person they trust to rebuild alts, compressors and starters for slightly less than a rebuilt denso.
Also there is the having a spare aspect, especially if that spare was an original. -- except the abs lol.