P0171 - CEL Troubleshooting (1 Viewer)

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gregnash

Anal Retentive Analyst
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Ok so I had a CEL pop up at the beginning of March literally days before I left for Hurricane, UT.... P0171 which is a kind of vague code that points to a "Bank One Lean condition".
This can be a whole variety of things from a faulty MAF, faulty O2 sensor, Vacuum line leak, faulty PCV Valve/hose, etc. so I have started going down the rabbit hole of trying to diagnose.

Since the O2 sensors are kind of a bear to get to (especially the bank 1, sensor 1) I figured I would go for that first. I purchased a new OEM from Toyota but it didn't resolve the code.
Next was the MAF, which has been cleaned multiple times and still popped the code so I purchased a new OEM from Toyota but it did not resolve the code either.
I didn't know the age of the air filter so I just went ahead and replaced prior to the Hurricane trip with a VatoZone STP filter, old one was random brand not OEM.

So now I am looking to see what could be the next thing to try. I have checked vacuum lines previously and found nothing that would indicate a vacuum leak on but will likely try again tonight (or this week). But outside of that I am kind of at a loss as to what to try next without just throwing money at parts in hopes that ONE of them is the issue.
Here is a list of possible items for a P0171 per my BlueDriver OBDII scanner..

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Something to note is that just before the code pops (and then after) she starts to idle rough. During driving there is no weird or rough feeling, no loss of power or anything like that so figure that if it was something like a bad injector(s) then I would feel a loss of power throughout the powerband. Plus I have run fuel injector cleaner and fuel system cleaner through the tank every few tanks without any resolution. I hear not whistling or any other noise that would indicate to me that there is a vacuum leak (like I would hear on my FJ60s 2F) so maybe Fuel Filter? Aside from TB/WP service being done some weeks beforehand, there was no other major work that had been done to the engine prior to that, which is why I am a bit stumped.
 
Before you change any parts at all, just read the fuel trims. Even the free 'car scanner' app will tell you fuel trims. It'll tell you when its running lean, and by how much, on which bank, etc. (Bank 2 can even trigger P0171).
The FTs should be less than ~5%, when they jump up its detecting lean and adding more fuel to keep it happy, until about 25% and then it triggers the CEL.
If it's jumping high or all over the place at idle, it points toward vacuum leak. If it's high while under heavy acceleration, it points more to fuel supply. Then go from there.
 
Before you change any parts at all, just read the fuel trims. Even the free 'car scanner' app will tell you fuel trims. It'll tell you when its running lean, and by how much, on which bank, etc. (Bank 2 can even trigger P0171).
The FTs should be less than ~5%, when they jump up its detecting lean and adding more fuel to keep it happy, until about 25% and then it triggers the CEL.
If it's jumping high or all over the place at idle, it points toward vacuum leak. If it's high while under heavy acceleration, it points more to fuel supply. Then go from there.
Ok thanks for the information. I had seen someone mention fuel trims in one of the other threads but there wasn't a whole lot of information on how to utilize to help diagnose.
With that said, my little OBDII scanner shows me long and short term fuel trims for both banks. Since I am feeling the roughness at idle should I be looking more at the short term fuel trim, or does it really matter?
 
And my books are currently buried in a box in storage after moving a couple weeks back.
We moved a few months ago and I still can’t find half my stuff!
 
Ok thanks for the information. I had seen someone mention fuel trims in one of the other threads but there wasn't a whole lot of information on how to utilize to help diagnose.
With that said, my little OBDII scanner shows me long and short term fuel trims for both banks. Since I am feeling the roughness at idle should I be looking more at the short term fuel trim, or does it really matter?
I haven't gone into detail in past threads, because you can easily google fuel trims and find much better explanations than myself or anyone here can give. You can get FTs from basically any EFI car.
I have no idea how the roughness at idle relates, maybe the computer is overcompensating for a false lean condition by flooding it too much at idle.
If your reader shows FTs then look at them while idling a little bit, and then driving it. Whenever they start to creep over 5% and getting way high, you know there's a problem. You may just see them go all wacky all the time, which could point to the MAP sensor.
 
Ok finally dug my FSMs out last night and did a bit of diagnosing..
- Noticed that area around the PCV is pretty dirty and nasty so may be time to replace that but going to do some more troubleshooting before I do..
- Was able to get fuel trims after the truck warmed up and long term is below 20% and according to FSM this is on the high side but does not necessarily indicate something is amiss with injectors.
- Talked with buddy about and I am going to pull the plugs in the near future on the Bank1 to see what they look like and see if one looks to be burning oddly. I have not documentation of plugs or coil packs being changed so they are probably in need of basic tune-up change.
 
Ok finally dug my FSMs out last night and did a bit of diagnosing..
- Noticed that area around the PCV is pretty dirty and nasty so may be time to replace that but going to do some more troubleshooting before I do..
- Was able to get fuel trims after the truck warmed up and long term is below 20% and according to FSM this is on the high side but does not necessarily indicate something is amiss with injectors.
- Talked with buddy about and I am going to pull the plugs in the near future on the Bank1 to see what they look like and see if one looks to be burning oddly. I have not documentation of plugs or coil packs being changed so they are probably in need of basic tune-up change.

It shouldn't be anywhere near 20%. Drive it around a little like I said, and watch the STFTs. If they go high at idle, that points to vacuum leak. If they go high under load/acceleration, that points to fuel supply. If it's on both banks, consider something that is shared by both banks (fuel filter, pump, regulator, etc.). If it's on one bank, consider something that would only affect one bank (oxygen sensor, injectors, plugs, etc.).
Even though P0171 is usually bank 1, thats just a generic code and it doesn't appear toyota adheres to that. My '99 had way high FTs on bank 2 to trigger the P0171.
 
Ok got some more diagnostic time with the BlueDriver OBDII sensor monitoring fuel trims and O2 sensor voltage
So the LTFT and STFT all are consistent, there is no jumping around or anything. Slight variances in both when going down the road but nothing that would be more than a few percent if that.
At idle the LTFT will jump up to ~21% but stays steady and drops once on the road and moving.
Same type of situation with the STFT, seems like they would spike occasionally in the 1200-1500rpm range to 19.5 but that was the highest after doing some organization of things. Both banks were consistent with one another so not like one bank was higher than the other. Higher RPM ranges above 1500rpm resulted in STFT dropping down to single digits if not close to 0%.

Voltages for all the O2 sensors seem fine, not major deviations and nothing that seems to indicate that one is not working as they all report voltage sensing close to same time and not wonky communications.
 
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Ok got some more diagnostic time with the BlueDriver OBDII sensor monitoring fuel trims and O2 sensor voltage
So the LTFT and STFT all are consistent, there is no jumping around or anything. Slight variances in both when going down the road but nothing that would be more than a few percent if that.
At idle the LTFT will jump up to ~21% but stays steady and drops once on the road and moving.
Same type of situation with the STFT mainly in the low double digits while idling but on the road will drop to around 0-8% depending on speed.

Voltages for all the O2 sensors seem fine, not major deviations and nothing that seems to indicate that one is not working as they all report voltage sensing close to same time and not wonky communications.

On both banks or just 1?
 
Both banks

Oooooh, I would be looking for a big vacuum leak in the intake path from before it splits. Trying to think what else it could be, but there isn't much else.

I'm not sure if it'll work with modern EFI (might have to unplug MAP sensor to get it open loop I think), but on an older car I would be spraying some carb cleaner or starter fluid around the intake tract and finding a spot where it gets sucked into the leak and changes the idle. Some people use propane for this too. The modern way of doing things is to use a smoke test machine to fill it with smoke and see where it leaks out.
 
See logs of fuels trims, ECT, IAT, MPH, RPM. wouls be a good start.

Running fuel cleaners in gas tank and looking for vacuum leaks would be next.

Fuel pressure test may yield clues. If pump, filter or FPR, both banks normally affected, But still worth a look.

If starter job done: Intake manifold gasket needs testing for leaks and than compression test could also be revealing.
 
I chased my tail on the same issue for a whole year. Replaced quite a few parts to no avail. Eventually what actually helped was spraying carb cleaner throughout the intake path (from air filter to the intake gaskets). The issue was an air leak at the intake gasket. When I sprayed the cleaner there, the RPM surged!

Be careful and do this on a cold engine with plenty of air circulation and a fire extinguisher at hand.

Replacing the intake gaskets was about a 2 hour job!
 
I chased my tail on the same issue for a whole year. Replaced quite a few parts to no avail. Eventually what actually helped was spraying carb cleaner throughout the intake path (from air filter to the intake gaskets). The issue was an air leak at the intake gasket. When I sprayed the cleaner there, the RPM surged!

Be careful and do this on a cold engine with plenty of air circulation and a fire extinguisher at hand.

Replacing the intake gaskets was about a 2 hour job!
Yeah my buddy in the club that is a toyota mechanic told me the same thing. I went through and sprayed around looking for an intake leak but was not able to find anything.

As I think I stated before, there is no documentation of the plugs, coils, pcv being replaced... which are normal tune-up type items. So I will go down that path with those guys to see if that changes anything as it is likely needed (plugs and pcv) anyways as Alita is about to turn over 208k.
 
Well I think I may have found the culprit. After letting the engine cool down after I got home from work for a little over an hour I just went out with my can of carb cleaner that I FINALLY found (had tested with brake cleaner before). Sprayed at the base of the PCV and sure as s*** the idle went up!

New PCV, grommet and hose will be on order shortly.
 
Well I think I may have found the culprit. After letting the engine cool down after I got home from work for a little over an hour I just went out with my can of carb cleaner that I FINALLY found (had tested with brake cleaner before). Sprayed at the base of the PCV and sure as s*** the idle went up!

New PCV, grommet and hose will be on order shortly.
Much better than #8 bird shot of random parts 👍🏽
 
I see many old PCV grommet, PVC hoses, hose on back of air pipe, idle up hose, EVAP hose at intake bad and leaking. On the same engine! But not seen one throw a P0771 lean code bk1. Be interesting if it corrects yours.

I replace all these that are age, dry and cracking as part of a tune up. That just good PM.
 
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