P/S Question (I've Searched) Do I Need The Steering Coupler & Hose? (1 Viewer)

[dustinuhls]

I'm doing the mini-truck power steering conversion on my '75 FJ40 and have gathered all the parts that I believe I will need. I've read romer's thread and it was very helpful. Just wanted to make sure I have everything before I start so I don't have to make trips to the parts store or junkyard. I've got the gearbox from an '84 4wd truck w/ 70k miles (free), a Saginaw pump from the local salvage yard ($20), the Bill Dorry style pump and gearbox brackets from Mud Member orangefj45 are in the mail ($189), and a p/s cooler kit from NAPA ($25). I took the gearbox off the donor truck and left the steering coupler in it. Do I need that or will mine fit over the splines of the "84 shaft? Also, I've seen differing posts about the high pressure hose. Some people say the Toyota hose fits the GM pump, but shouldn't they be SAE and metric? I took the fitting out of the GM pump and it seems to fit the Toyota gearbox... I ordered a Toyota hose from NAPA ($26) and they said they can cut one end off and attach the GM fitting if I need. That was cheaper than custom making a complete hose. As soon as it's installed, I will have to measure and go get a belt. Is there anything I'm missing?

Here's my gearbox and pump:

 

[77mustard40]

I just did this a month or so ago. Used Georg's pump bracket and box pedestal but I also hit the deck and let him make me a high pressure hose (SAE for the Saginaw and metric for the box). I also purchased a new rag joint as mine was shot. The LC joint worked fine on my steering box. I used my original pitman arm for the new box and installed new drag link parts from Cruiser Outfitters.

Getting the old riveted pedistal off was the biggest PITA, but the end product was worth it. Good luck.

 

[dustinuhls]

I just did this a month or so ago. Used Georg's pump bracket and box pedestal but I also hit the deck and let him make me a high pressure hose (SAE for the Saginaw and metric for the box). I also purchased a new rag joint as mine was shot. The LC joint worked fine on my steering box. I used my original pitman arm for the new box and installed new drag link parts from Cruiser Outfitters.

Getting the old riveted pedistal off was the biggest PITA, but the end product was worth it. Good luck.

Thanks. My rag joint looks good. Just wanted to make sure it fit the new gearbox shaft before I tore it all apart. The pitman arm is on my '84 box and from what I've read it will work with the 40 drag link. Any reason I should change them out? It just seemed easier than getting a pitman puller and trying to switch them out. Everyone says the rivets is the hardest part. I've got a grinder and cutoff wheel, what seems to be so hard about it? Also, did you get the wide pulley or use the narrow one. I found a belt that's kinda in between and looks like it might work. Don't wanna pay $100 for a pulley if I don't have to. I've read some people use the narrow belt just fine.

 

[77mustard40]

Thanks. My rag joint looks good. Just wanted to make sure it fit the new gearbox shaft before I tore it all apart. The pitman arm is on my '84 box and from what I've read it will work with the 40 drag link. Any reason I should change them out? It just seemed easier than getting a pitman puller and trying to switch them out. Everyone says the rivets is the hardest part. I've got a grinder and cutoff wheel, what seems to be so hard about it? Also, did you get the wide pulley or use the narrow one. I found a belt that's kinda in between and looks like it might work. Don't wanna pay $100 for a pulley if I don't have to. I've read some people use the narrow belt just fine.

I think the PU pitman arm is shorter than the 40's arm, it is also more curved. This will shorten the forward and backward range of the drag links range of movement = you may not have full left and right turns, or a wider turning radius. I don't know that for sure so just went ahead and swapped em from box to box. Pull it while it's mounted

I ground the rivets but ended up attacking the old pedistal with the cutoff wheel by cutting in parallel to the fame and as close to the frame as possible. I'd already hit it with a pneumatic chisel and BFH and wasn't making progress after grinding the heads off.

I used the big pulley and it works great, but there's no reason you can't try first with the narrow pulley and see what you get. Here's some pics

 

[dustinuhls]

I think the PU pitman arm is shorter than the 40's arm, it is also more curved. This will shorten the forward and backward range of the drag links range of movement = you may not have full left and right turns, or a wider turning radius. I don't know that for sure so just went ahead and swapped em from box to box. Pull it while it's mounted

I ground the rivets but ended up attacking the old pedistal with the cutoff wheel by cutting in parallel to the fame and as close to the frame as possible. I'd already hit it with a pneumatic chisel and BFH and wasn't making progress after grinding the heads off.

I used the big pulley and it works great, but there's no reason you can't try first with the narrow pulley and see what you get. Here's some pics

View attachment 1418961

View attachment 1418962

Now I'm gonna have to measure those pitman arms. Good tip on doing it while it's on. If I have to, I can rent the pitman puller tool from the Autozone or Oreilly's. I'd rather just leave the old/new one on if I don't have to remove it. I can't believe it's so hard to remove those rivets. I figured I'd just grind off the heads and use a punch and a BFH to knock them out. Sounds like it's gonna be PITA. I guess we'll see when I get to it. Thanks for the pics. Did you not use a power steering cooler? I keep reading that I need one and they weren't expensive, so I picked one up.

 

[77mustard40]

I have a cooler and it's still on my work bench, too lazy to pull the Warn 8274 to make room for dropping bib to get to the front of the radiator. I've got several friends running mini truck PS without a cooler and I'm in Texas.

 

[ccasteel]

I have run two 40's with this setup and no ps cooler. Never had any problems. But I also wasn't wheeling those very hard. That said, if it's easy enough to put in, it can only help.

 

[shmukster]

When removing those rivets I grind the heads flat and flush, center punch the rivets and drill through in steps size wise ending up with a bit slightly smaller in diameter than the rivet body. Makes 'em much easier to punch out. no matter what they are never easy to remove. And I don't run a cooler on any of my trucks. Using Georg's components is always a good decision.

 

[dustinuhls]

I mounted the pump today so I could get measurements for the belt and make sure everything lined up. Looks like in order to put tension on the belt, the pump isn't gonna sit perpendicular. Is it ok if it's cocked off to the side 45-50 degrees and the top isn't sitting level?

 

[mocha0923]

I just did this a month or so ago. Used Georg's pump bracket and box pedestal but I also hit the deck and let him make me a high pressure hose (SAE for the Saginaw and metric for the box). I also purchased a new rag joint as mine was shot. The LC joint worked fine on my steering box. I used my original pitman arm for the new box and installed new drag link parts from Cruiser Outfitters.

Getting the old riveted pedistal off was the biggest PITA, but the end product was worth it. Good luck.

@77mustard40 sent you a PM.

 

[dustinuhls]

Not seeing anything. How do I read a pm? Looked in my inbox and don't see anything.