Overkill for 180k service?

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Jun 4, 2006
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Nearing 180k now, need to do my second timing belt change.....local Indy is going to do the work for me.

Heater T's are done. Trans fluid has 35k on it, but the dealer is an hour away, and without a trans dipstick it's a PITA, so I'm going to push that off a bit yet and have the dealer do it this Fall.

Otherwise, here's what I've got, which seems like a really LONG list........LOL:) :

16100-59275-83 Water Pump

13568-09070 Timing Belt

90916-02586 Serp Belt

90916-03100 Thermostat

16346-50010 Thermostat Gasket

163070F010 Fan Bracket <-------Is this Necessary?

1621050051 Fan Clutch <-------Is this Necessary?

166200W101 Tensioner

13503-0F010 Idler

13505-0F010 Idler

90311-A0001 Crank Seal <-------Is this Necessary?

90311-38065 Cam Seal x 2 <-------Is this Necessary?

90080-91180 x 8 Spark Plugs


Is any of this overkill??

Thanks!
 
YEEEEESSSSSS !!!!!!

These vehicles that we all login to banter about are one of the few if not the only one on the globe that doesn't REQUIRE serious maintenance to get 300+k miles. Obvious maintenance is required but the items you mention will last a long time and IMO your list is a bit OCD.

If it just makes you feel better and more comfortable then spend the money to do it. No problem... but hopefully you will not be back in a few years and complain about the high cost of owning a LX/LC. It is very cheap to own one of these gems from Japan.
 
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IMO, yes it's overkill. I added to my first post.
 
I dont believe its overkill if you need it done. You should do the seals since you are already in there and they are not expensive. Take care to seat them properly. I have one that has a slight leak to do me possibly not seating it right.

Its not a hard job to do, but its time consuming and there are a lot of parts that need to come out. I would hate for you to pass up on an item, have it fail [water pump, thermostat] and have to do it all over again. It should not be more than $500-600 depending on where you live if you dont want to do it yourself. Any competent mech can do it.
 
Are you only asking about the 4 noted items, because I don't think that doing the water pump, etc, when you are already in there, and it is relatively inexpensive is overkill at all.
 
I'm asking primarily about the highlighted items if theyre overkill or not.

The timing belt and water pump replaced at 92,000 miles

The other components have never been replaced

I'm wondering how OCD it is to be replacing the fan bracket and the fan clutch etc. as a preventative measure at this point
 
Is it absolutely necessary to replace those items? No. Will it cost you more money in the long run if one of those parts fails and you have to tear everything apart again to replace it and repair any damage the failure may have caused? Absolutely. It's one of those "while you're in there" circumstances where since you already have the engine ripped apart, might as well replace them. If it makes you feel any better I am getting everything you mentioned above replaced, as well as new CV axles, tie rod ends, steering rack bushings, SPC front upper control arms w/ball joints, lower ball joints, wheel bearings, starter, and brakes:confused:
 
If it was me, I would do it. Preventive maintenance is much more convenient than
necessary repair.
 
They have to take off those extra parts you listed to do the job. If they last 90k more miles, you win the maintenance lotto. If not, you pay the labor to replace them. Fan bracket and clutch, you can wait, or do it. It will be less than $200 more for parts now or $400 for parts and labor later. For the cam and crank seals, that is almost no extra labor now, and a ton later if they need to be done. Do those now. Flip a coin on the fan bracket and clutch now - depends on how anal you are about maintenance.
 
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Here is my $.02, everything that comes in the timing belt kit gets used.
Crank and cam seal, leave well enough alone. Worse case, they start to leak, you have to add oil once and awhile and you replace them at the next timing belt service.
Plugs? Iridium plugs last 100k minimum.
T-stat and gasket, easy DIY, no need to drain the cooling system, just top off when done.
Is the fan clutch bad? Leave it alone. Are the fan shroud brackets broken? Leave them alone.
When was the last time the serp belt was replaced? Those only need to be replaced when they start to make noise, and then you also replace the belt tensioner and idler pulley.
Save your money, do what needs to be done and keep driving.
 
Nearing 180k now, need to do my second timing belt change.....local Indy is going to do the work for me.

Heater T's are done. Trans fluid has 35k on it, but the dealer is an hour away, and without a trans dipstick it's a PITA, so I'm going to push that off a bit yet and have the dealer do it this Fall.

Otherwise, here's what I've got, which seems like a really LONG list........LOL:) :

16100-59275-83 Water Pump (Yes, best practice)

13568-09070 Timing Belt

90916-02586 Serp Belt (No, unless frayed or chunks missing, cracks on ribs are acceptable)

90916-03100 Thermostat (No, if not out of spec but nice to align with T-belt job)

16346-50010 Thermostat Gasket (with thermostat)

163070F010 Fan Bracket <-------Is this Necessary? (No, wait until failure unless not in spec now. But no extra labor now)

1621050051 Fan Clutch <-------Is this Necessary? (No, wait until failure unless not in spec now. But no extra labor now)

166200W101 Tensioner (This is drive belt/serpentine.) (No, unless fails inspection. Just replace bearing when it gets noisy)

13503-0F010 Idler (yes, T-belt killer if goes bad which is hard to detect)

13505-0F010 Idler (yes, T-belt killer if goes bad which is hard to detect)

90311-A0001 Crank Seal <-------Is this Necessary? (only if leaky, factories can last forever)

90311-38065 Cam Seal x 2 <-------Is this Necessary? (only if leaky, factories can last forever)

90080-91180 x 8 Spark Plugs (No, provided withing FSM spec limits. But nice to align timing with T-belt) (wide gap(s) draw extra power from coil(s), which makes them operate hot. Heat kills coils, one coils cost as much as a set of 8 spark plugs)


Is any of this overkill??

Thanks! END}

I didn't see is Timing belt tensioner. This is replaced if it doesn't pass inspection. It can be replace at any time easily, but is rarely inspected outside of timing belt job. Leaking/weak tensioner may allow T-belt to skip.[/QUOTE]
 
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Awesome info, thanks to all.

I'm going to do it all, for the extra couple hundred bucks in parts to "do it right", it will save potential repairs down the road.
 
I tend to replace the parts simply because everything is apart and I consider my time valuable. After doing the 90k on our GX I had to replace the Alternator and the Radiator as two seperate installs within 5k of the 90k service, it would have added minimal time to the 90k if I had done it all together.

I replaced the fan bracket at 90k, hearing stories from people who had to replace it before the 180k, it has to come off anyhow so replacing it is no additional work. The OEM is more expensive, you get an Aisin from rock auto for $100, its the exact same part just not in a Toyota box.

To add on to what others have said:

Water pump - definately, I think the water pump is more likely to fail (leak/ weep) than having the timing belt fail, from seeing threads on long overdue services and the TB's being in pretty good shape.

Timing belt, idlers, tensioner - replace them all, I did the Aisin kit which are the same parts as OEM (except maybe the belt which is a misuboshi?) TK-021 its $162 on rockauto w/ water pump, that's hard to beat.

Serp belt, serp belt idler, serp belt tensioner, fan clutch - these are all easy to replace later and dont require tearing the front of the engine down like a lot of the other parts. I installed a bando drive belt because it was 1/5 the cost of the OEM, it has to come off to do the service so replacing it is no additional work.

Thermostat - up to you, its minimal added work to replace, and failure of the t-stat wont be catostrophic and is easy to replace after the fact. Go OEM.

Crank Seal/ Cam seal - I would not replace unless they are leaking, if you install the new ones incorrectly they are more likely to leak than the existing ones that came out, the seals aren't disturbed by the service (disturbing a seal is a reason to replace it). If you have VVTI the cam seals are alot more complex to replace.

Spark Plugs - I remove to make turning the engine easier, so replacing is no additional work. Denso Irridiums are what come in the Toyota box, you can get them cheaper by not buying them from Toyota, the part is exactly the same, however the premium on buying these from Toyota isn't as much as some of the other parts ($8ea vs $6ea).

Buy OEM coolant. I would also replace the rad cap and rad hoses (oem) if they have never been done. I would strongly consider replacing the alternator with a Denso reman, its minimal added work with everything already tore apart.
 
Good choice, only a few of those are optional and those that are are not that much money but would cost a lot of labor to do later (worse if they ruin or sideline a trip).
 
For point of reference, my fan clutch just seized up at 193,000.
Went with the Aisin FCT-021 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch, $79 on Amazon
 
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For point of reference, my fan clutch just seized up at 193,000.
Went with the Aisin FCT-021 Engine Cooling Fan Clutch, $79 on Amazon

But that was YOUR fan clutch, and replacing it is no big deal and it's no big deal if it seizes up, it's even no big deal if it stops locking up, you just have to watch out for overheating.
In two days you have a new one to your door, so you drive around with a loud engine fan for half a week, who cares?
His fan clutch could last 250k, and in that case thats $80 saved.
Why replace parts and spend money if you don't have to?

If the timing belt touches it, replace it, otherwise let sleeping dogs lie.
 

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