Outstanding news for 80 owners

[Tools R Us]

Kevin,
I believe that's a bit of rust beginning to form. That would drive me crazy. Better get out the sandpaper and get rid of that nasty stuff while it's not too bad.

What's the recommended procedure? I'm thinking sandblast, wet sand to restore the finish, followed by a phosphoric acid bath to fully kill it, then a coat of clear satin lacquer to protect it?

Actually it's a little Kane Creek that didn't get fully rinsed off, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about!

 

[jditom]

The PNW is better, we get to use the rear heat, the pipes aren't rusted, and we don't get cracked dashes...

 

[cruiserdan]

Well, you guys you have convinced me, last attempt at an informative thread to help the majority.

He can sure dish it out but...............






Kidding aside, that really is ugly. Was it confined to the area where the bracket was welded to the pipes? I wonder what could be done to coat the replacement so you don't have to do that job again.

 

[Russ in California]

You know, ever since I joined this ******* forum, I feel like I'm careening
from one potentially devastating "must fix now" to another
Thanks Rick, for increasing my paranoia!!!

Sometimes it's good to know of future 'potentials'. My 'to do' and 'to look at' list just keeps
getting longer and longer.

 

[Tools R Us]

He can sure dish it out but...............






Kidding aside, that really is ugly. Was it confined to the area where the bracket was welded to the pipes? I wonder what could be done to coat the replacement so you don't have to do that job again.

Strip the new one and apply a good coat of Rust Bullet (Mud Supporter) or POR15 maybe?

http://rustbullet.com/Products/Automotive/Automotive.htm

 

[landtank]

just where the brackets got welded on, every thing else was smooth and solid.

Considering the truck is 10 years old and has almost 200k on it I think it's commendable that the design lasted this long. Even the international Scout is still roaming the deserts today but they left this area decades ago.

Given Murphy's law with things breaking at the worst possible time and the fact that bypassing the rear heater is going to be one real PITA, people might want to take a look at this area.

The roadside PHH repair has nothing on this guy.

 

[dfmorse]

I think we have an electrolysis problem at that bracket ..


...

 

[T Y L E R]

I'm a firm believer in I.I.B.


;p



Why go lookin for trouble?

 

[Sully]

I'll take the month of Sundays because any time with the cruiser is time away from the wife.

Amen, brother!

 

[Tools R Us]

I think we have an electrolysis problem at that bracket ..


...

Looks more like dirt, mud, muck, debris holding salty moisture above the brackets, causing corrosion to start there.

 

[e9999]

Looks more like dirt, mud, muck, debris holding salty moisture above the brackets, causing corrosion to start there.

is this a alien lifeform...?

 

[CDN_Cruiser]

Yep - looks very familiar. Mine looked somewhat like that with a few leaks, lots of rust, etc. As others have done, I cut mine in the tranny tunnel and replaced with flexiuble heater hose above the frame rail.

I did mine some time ago and haven't had any problems. I have a look at them every now and then to make sure everything looks fine. I figure I can replace them annually if I really needed to and it's far easier that replacing the ard lines!

Cheers, Hugh

 

[IdahoDoug]

So Rick, would it be a possibility to get 20 feet of that flexible metal line and attach it at the firewall, then snake it back to the other end by the cats? I had a Fiat X 1/9 with a mid engine/front rad that split a metal line when I hit a tire chunk on the road and simply bypassed it with radiator hose all the way back. If you use flexy metal line you'd do the same thing. Of course a tranny drop means easy rear pan arch/main seal.....

DougM

 

[Bruneti]

I'd look for a convenient place to cut the hard line, and then run some gates green stripe. Maybe put a piece of larger diameter cheap heater hose over the o.d. to protect from road debris and rubbing.

I'm usually all about fixing things right, but that job seems excessive to get a little hot water to the back seat.

 

[turbocruiser]

Looks more like dirt, mud, muck, debris holding salty moisture above the brackets, causing corrosion to start there.

Looks more like that "turdy incher" Tommy was so proud of a whittle while back!

 

[joker]

just think of it as something else to look at while lying under your truck. sleeping...

 

[landtank]

My tranny is already on the ground so the proper repair is probably easier than the flex line. Realistically I doubt I'd drop the tranny for a leak here if I thought the flex line would work.

I'm not sure if it ever did leak, I'm changing it out because I can do so easilly.

 

[topend yobbo]

Crikey's , how did you ever let it get that bad to start with.
Regular washing will help prevent things like this happening.
I've never seen an 80 with rear heating, where do the outlets exit?
Can you just ditch the rear heater?
We worry much more about our A/C working properly.

 

[landtank]

Toyota Ts into the lines for the front heater up close to the firewall. The hard lines actually hug the tranny tunnel real close on their way back.

Regular cleaning of those brackets would probably stop it from happening. Those brackets are tucked up along the body where normal driving in rain isn't going to wash them out.

 

[scottm]

I bypassed the rear heater on my 40th, planned to run soft copper sheathed in heater hose. I've got pictures somewhere...