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- #541
Then pulled the engine out the parts rig, to return it to a friend who gave me the truck.
Builds Out with the old and in with the new!(turboed 2h!)now no longer turbo, but rebuilt! (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter mongoose2231
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- #542
Then i took my 60 for a drive and realized that the rear cylinders, passenger side especially, is also dragging! Dang, got home, parked and had to use 4 low to move the darn thing! The rears are really stuck. I wonder why does this happen? I rebuilt my rear cylinders with Toyota parts, brand new pistons, etc. Wtf....now onto replacing the rear cylinders.
Stay tuned
Stay tuned
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- #543
And after replacing the rear cylinders amd getting the brakes sorted, i decided to grind some of the bubbling paint off, to prime it and stop the rust from progressing. I was appaled, to say the least !!! This thing is bondoed to death!!!
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- #544
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- #545
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- #546
60 series, especially ones who have seen winter are all full of rust.
I have spent years cutting and welding and fixing my rust.
Do not use POR-15, it only causes more issues later.
If I can say one thing, don't over do it with repairs on body. It always comes back.
So now I do this, I wire wheel. I sometimes use a sand blaster with glass bead in it. I use rust converter to try to stabilize the rust. I prime the metal with rust paint. If need be I use filler. If the metal is gone I weld in some metal.
I use cheap paint on the exterior as expensive paint is throwing money away.
I have spent years cutting and welding and fixing my rust.
Do not use POR-15, it only causes more issues later.
If I can say one thing, don't over do it with repairs on body. It always comes back.
So now I do this, I wire wheel. I sometimes use a sand blaster with glass bead in it. I use rust converter to try to stabilize the rust. I prime the metal with rust paint. If need be I use filler. If the metal is gone I weld in some metal.
I use cheap paint on the exterior as expensive paint is throwing money away.
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- #548
That's exactly what I plan on doing. Can't fix this professionally, too far gone. I have a welder, plenty of flapper wheels and I simply plan to just enjoy it. I would however, given the opportunity, do a body swap if i could find a rust free one. I guess I'll just keep on fixing as i go...
Yah I've thought of that too. But I know even ones that look rust free are waiting to pop. The seams are all bare metal from the factory.
I got a tail gate from Japan that was rust free. I opened the bottom seam preventative and found it had rust that was not visible.
I paint with duplicolor spray cans, do a small section at a time. I once did it all at once and it was too much. Focus on one small part at time and drive and enjoy.
I got a tail gate from Japan that was rust free. I opened the bottom seam preventative and found it had rust that was not visible.
I paint with duplicolor spray cans, do a small section at a time. I once did it all at once and it was too much. Focus on one small part at time and drive and enjoy.
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- #550
My thoughts exactly. Much apreciated insight.
Okay for some motivation. I bought quarter panel kits in 2007, and installed them. They rotted back out and now this year I got to re-do it.
The rear portion of Left hand side quarter arches were rusty, so I cut it out and used a finger type arch repair piece. I welded it in spot weld style. I used a fiberglass bondo, then a little smooth bondo to make it shaped. Not a lot of filler, but yes it needed it to make shape. I was able to shape the metal.
I would not call this an ideal repair. But I did cut out the rust and will hopefully get a few more years before I do it again... Maybe even one day I will turn it into a ute.
Have a look at these pictures for yah.
The rear portion of Left hand side quarter arches were rusty, so I cut it out and used a finger type arch repair piece. I welded it in spot weld style. I used a fiberglass bondo, then a little smooth bondo to make it shaped. Not a lot of filler, but yes it needed it to make shape. I was able to shape the metal.
I would not call this an ideal repair. But I did cut out the rust and will hopefully get a few more years before I do it again... Maybe even one day I will turn it into a ute.
Have a look at these pictures for yah.
In my pictures you can also see my new tube rocker panels. I cut out the rockers and put in tubes.
The best tool for a cruiser is a small mig welder in my opinion. I don't even bother with shielding gas anymore. I buy inner shield wire and just wire wheel it between welds to keep it clean.
The best tool for a cruiser is a small mig welder in my opinion. I don't even bother with shielding gas anymore. I buy inner shield wire and just wire wheel it between welds to keep it clean.
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- #553
You did great work! I did see the tube mod some time ago, i was thinking of doing the same thing. Mine is worse though, so i may just entirely chop the quarters off to just below the beltline, etc. At this point its too far gone for a proper repair, so patch and enjoy may be the way to go.
Most 60's have rust just waiting to pop in the 1/4 arches. The inner wheel well liner where it meets with the outer skin was never protected from the factory. Bare seam. So when you open the interior panel in the back sides you can see into this area. I like to spray oil like rust check or lps 3 into this spot to help slow it down. Most of the rust is from the inside out.
With 40 series you can get aluminum tubs. I wish something for the 60 series was available like that.
With 40 series you can get aluminum tubs. I wish something for the 60 series was available like that.
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- #555
Yeah, I mean, its a shame really....
I have seen some build threads on here with major surgery being done to try to repair the rust.. all I can say is that some of us really love these things, to go to such great lengths to try and save them.
I have seen some build threads on here with major surgery being done to try to repair the rust.. all I can say is that some of us really love these things, to go to such great lengths to try and save them.
Saving mine is also the reason I no longer winter drive mine. But if someone had to I would literally coat it in oil underneath and into every cavity annually. Even spray externally on the lower parts. Krown Oil is what I use and it really stops rust from spreading. Notice how our rigs never seem to rust at the front near the engine? Cause it's leaking so much oil... lol
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- #557
Hahaha, good point about the oil. I have used fluid film with success this winter on my other trucks. I guess i'll try everything...
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- #558
So today I dug, or wanted to dig into the damaged areas of the frame. I figured it wouldn't be too bad. I then realized the extent of the issue. I am now in the process of removing the rear axle and so on to fix this thing. See below...
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- #559
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- #560
I was demoralized but moving forward. Others have seen worse
