Out of options for cold AC -- I'm spent.

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FWIW:

We sell a 2.5cfm vacuum pump for $99.99
A quality R134 gauge set is $89.95

If you're feeling flush, I've got a special where you get the gauges, vacuum pump and digital scale for $249.98, which is a pretty good deal as the scale sells for $120+

As an aside, I bought a '97 80 series a few months ago, it's dark green, 200k+ miles, and the A/C works great-so yours should be able to work equally well. I'll get you some vent temps for comparison.

Rex
 
i think i might have this problem too, will the temp of the hi/lo hoses indicate anything? my hi side is really hot but the low is barely cool. vent temps are also 75ish
 
Maybe everyone's got a case of valley fever here? I have had 3 techs, Toyota dealership inclusive and expected, tell me that there's nothing more that can be done and that is to be expected out of a 13 yo vehicle.

I don't buy that line for a second, sorry.

I'm just curious what could I be missing?


Ya', for anyone to say there is nothing more that can be done on a 13 yo vehicle is bull. If you went through and replaced all the parts, it should work like new.

You said you cleaned the evaporator, did you actually take it out and clean it? What did you clean it with. In oklahoma we get 100+ days and have the added joy of 90% humidity on those days. I'm not A/C expert, but a couple years ago I puched a hole in my drier. The A/C was always a little challenged before that. Since I had to have the system refilled anyway, I pulled the evaporator out, cleaned it with simple green, and replaced the evaporator valve, and of course the drier - refill, and it's majorly cooler even on the hottest days.

If you didn't actually pull the evaporator out to clean it, do so. And replace the evaporator valve. If you search, somewhere someone did a denali fan motor that really up'd the flow. Suposedly, the system is plenty big, as it's the same even when they add rear air overseas, but the airflow is low.
 
I found a slight disadvantage to having a supercharger and dual batteries.

I can't reach the low side port on the compressor to add coolant.

Yeah, I know. Cry me a river.

Since I was doing this though, I thought I would bring up a few bits.

Topping off the charge on your R134a coolant system is easy. The kits they sell at the parts stores work very well. The 1996 (presumably others) has a sight glass to see how the fluid is moving in the system.

To see if your truck needs refrigerant:
1. Start the truck.
2. Put it to cold, recirculate, full fan (load the AC system.)
3. Let it run that way for about 3 minutes. You should be able to feel cool (if not cold) air coming through the vents. If the air is hot or not cooler than ambient, then you have issues that this post is not going to solve.
4. Pop the hood (leave the truck running)
5. On the driver's side, up under the metal trim where the hood lands, almost dead center in the battery compartment there is a metal pipe running through it with a square block on it - and a dirty circle in the center of the block. Spit on a rag and clean up this circle - it is glass. In fact, it is a window into your coolant system.
6. If there is cold air coming through your vents and this circle is clear - congratulations, you're fully charged and done.
7. If you have cool air coming through the vents but this circle is cloudy, your system is probably low on charge. For adding coolant, follow the directions on the kit you get from the parts store.
8. If you have hot or unchilled air coming through the vents and the circle is clear - the system is likely fully on empty and you will need to spend a lot more money and time figuring it out.

IMHO YMMV

I wonder if I can get to that port from underneath and not have to remove the battery tray... Hmm...
 
Pardon my noobness but is regfrigerant, freon?

R-12 is Freon - it's not been used in new autos for a long time - very bad for the environment. Most 80's run 134a, or are converted to it.
 
R-12 is Freon - it's not been used in new autos for a long time - very bad for the environment. Most 80's run 134a, or are converted to it.

IIRC the conversion was in 1995. So... 1995, 96 and 97 FZJ80s will likely have R134a. Prior years will have R12.

Do not put R134a into an R12 system. Don't waste R12 on a 134a vehicle. R12 is stupid expensive now. So expensive you might consider converting the system - which is way outside of what I would want to get into in a quick guide to topping off a 134a system.
 
Pardon my noobness but is regfrigerant, freon?

If you're that much of a noob with the hood up on a vehicle, you might want to have a neighbor or relative with redneck credentials help you do it the first time.

If you need to top off your system more than once every 2-3 years, you have a leak that really should get fixed. A 3 year leak is going to be almost impossible to find.

IMHO YMMV
 
I think I just bought all the R12 in the Phoenix Arizona area....
 
Do you have an a/c cert or something? I didn't think it was possible to buy R12 if you're Joe Schmo.
 

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