Out of options for cold AC -- I'm spent.

[firetruck41]

IMHO your truck is probably overheating. The AC has a cutoff when engine temps climb. It seems to be pretty common on trucks with dubious coolant histories. Did you do a coolant flush & fill in recent memory? Change the thermostat? Condition of radiator?

My AC was cutting the AC on long uphills when it was 100* outside, etc... When I got the truck the coolant looked brown. Even though I did a serious 11 pass flush to clear on it, I still had the annoying overheat when the truck was under stress.

I don't think this is the case, as his coolant temps are within normal range, and well below the 226F at which the AC cutoff occurs. I've got the same coolant temps, and the AC works well, though it is only in the lower 90s here today.
Scott, at least you know that the 80 series have AC systems that work well enough in high temps. Just have to figure out what is holding yours back. NO need to ditch your 80!

 

[Marco7]

Not sure about that reputable a/c shop you went to.
Age has nothing to do with a properly functioning a/c.
My '91 3FE with R12 blows ICE COLD air at the vents in Houston's 100 degree heat.

I would bypass the heater core, as you mentioned earlier and see if this improves your temps... I have a feeling it will.
Just get a U shaped heater hose the same diameter and attach it with clamps, and then just cap the heater core tubes at firewall.
That would isolate the problem and also fix it temporarily until winter arrives.

 

[azrider]

im not crying about my AC anymore!! My trucks green like yours, and even though I havent got a exact vent temp yet, it blows cold. Just the size and color of the truck keep it from being a icebox. I did(or should I say Kevin) did 12,500 CST in the clutch fan. Its comfortable in my truck when cruising, not wear a sweatshirt time, but not sweating either. If it sits outside in the heat, the vents blow cold, just takes forever to cool the whole thing. Good luck with this dude, it will cool down in 3 months anyway.

 

[Daisy 53]

How does the condenser look? I spent an hour or so cleaning all the crap out of mine, straightened out a bunch of the fins and then soaked it in simple green. Let the simple green sit for about 20 minutes and rinsed until the water ran clear. Then next day, it was a noticeable decrease in vent temps. I dont think that it will ever freeze you out, but mine is very comfortable now.
Good luck
Daisy

 

[1972FJ55]

In regards to the cloudy sight-glass, I'm thinking to much oil in the system. If the people servicing it have all added an ounce or two while performing their service, it could easily have enough oil to degrade the cooling.
Is the condenser still the original? I ran into a case where the original one was replaced with a cheap tube & fin design that wasn't designed to work with R134, hence it didn't cool very well.
My .02
Rex

 

[Tools R Us]

...
As per the repeated success of ToolsRUs, I did not adjust the clutch valve, only the 10kcst fill. ...

If it's a new type blue hub I would have put thicker fluid in it. If everything else (charge, etc) is up to par, the main thing in AZ heat is airflow, are the foam and hood seals, the frame pan under the radiator, in place? I wanted to get a look at it, was hoping you would make the CSC meet.

 

[Pskhaat]

If it's a new type blue hub I would have put thicker fluid in it.

I have no problem changing it out again, wasn't a big deal, but as I already had some 10k fluid, figured I could see if it made any difference. Should I not have however seen some noticeable ever-so-slight difference?

are the foam and hood seals, the frame pan under the radiator, in place? I wanted to get a look at it, was hoping you would make the CSC meet.

Yep, everything there as expected. Wish I could have made it to CSC meet too. I would normally drive the Troopy but will drive the LC80 next time.

 

[Pskhaat]

How does the condenser look?

Is the condenser still the original?

Yes, the original condenser is still there. I have cleaned it repeatedly with Joy and a hose from both fore and aft sides.

I would bypass the heater core, as you mentioned earlier and see if this improves your temps... I have a feeling it will. Just get a U shaped heater hose the same diameter and attach it with clamps, and then just cap the heater core tubes at firewall.

OK, where exactly are you thinking (image below):

 

[Marco7]

OK, where exactly are you thinking (image below):

See this thread, post #9, Yarborg's post...get some others feedback first before proceeding, I 've done it in with other vehicles (but my trusty 3FE has never had the need ):

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...-possible-heater-core-replacement\bypass.html

 

[medtro]

I hope this is not the picture of your new replaced valve.

 

[jlg32281]

I had a similar problem, but finally found the culprit. I had recharged the system, clean the evaporator, installed a pusher fan, and still no cold. Finally, the recirc to fresh servimotor was bad and it went out on fresh air. The little light on the control unit still switched back and forth, but the flaps above the fan never moved. I unhooked the linkage from the servimotor and jammed it closed to where I'm always blowing recirc. This dropped my temps much more than the pusher fan I installed. My little button continues to switch the light indicator back and forth, but I'm 100% recirc air. I'm even considering blocking off the fresh air intakes for the A/C. Before my idling air temps while spraying a water hose on the front in the shade would only dip to 68, and that was the lowest it ever went. Now I'm getting into the upper 40's, 50's while stuck in the Houston traffic. Also, after switching to 100% recirc, I left the bottom cover off of the fan and it blows harder. Yes I'm aware that it can suck up paper and other crap, but I don't have kids yet so I'm not worried about it.

 

[Elbert]

if your vent temps never get below 70'sF ...there is no way your A/C is working.... properly. You need to find another shop. You should see at least something in the mid 40'sF with A/C on full cold / high fan. Time to find another shop.

 

[mmw68]

Scott,
Iam sure you know the A/C basic - but look up on the right hand corner of my site, and I've got a sheet on A/C troubleshooting and basics - maybe it would help.

Landcruiser FJ40 Vintage Air

 

[davegonz]

Have you removed the evaporator cover under the dash and physically checked to see if it's cold? If it is, then it could be one of your servo motors or your heater stuck open and overpowering your AC.

 

[BrotherRob]

To get 80 degree vent temps on a 115 day the a/c is working but not well. If it was cutting out, you would see wide swings in vent temps, the LED on the a/c button would also be blinking off and on. Some work on the fan clutch wouldn't hurt but it also sounds like you may have a venting problem and are pulling heat off the heater core.

 

[Pskhaat]

Have you removed the evaporator cover under the dash and physically checked to see if it's cold?

I've checked it of course for obstruction &c but not when it running to check for cold on that side of things. Good idea will do.

could be one of your servo motors or your heater stuck open and overpowering your AC.

Check out the video I posted, at least it looks like all the servos and linkage is working.

...sounds like you may have a venting problem and are pulling heat off the heater core.

That's what I and others keep coming back to. I will be plugging the heater line and see.

 

[Pskhaat]

Scott,
Iam sure you know the A/C basic - but look up on the right hand corner of my site, and I've got a sheet on A/C troubleshooting and basics - maybe it would help. http://www.cruisercrap.com/vintageair/

It actually did, yes thank you, that is where I started

 

[mmw68]

I think you just need to rip that OEM a/c out and put in a Vintage Air.

 

[lextechautomotive]

Allright guys lets get to the bottom of this a/c issue, after reading all post i still haven't seen any a/c high / low pressures listed. These will be key in diagnosing this issue. I have had 5 80's and still have 2 of them and the 2 i have now have had the exact same issues and it's been the expansion valve on both vehicles times. Just repaired one of them today. When an expansion valve sticks the low pressure will typically go to 10psi or lower, (restriction) the high side pressure can vary but will typically climb to above 250 and up. A properly charged and operating system should show low pressure of 28 to 30psi, the high side depending on ambient temp 170 to 225psi. plus or minus a few pounds is ok for our older vehicles as the compressors wear with age.

Post the a/c pressures and we'll get you there.
www.lextechautomotivellc.com

 

[Marco7]

Allright guys lets get to the bottom of this a/c issue, after reading all post i still haven't seen any a/c high / low pressures listed. These will be key in diagnosing this issue. I have had 5 80's and still have 2 of them and the 2 i have now have had the exact same issues and it's been the expansion valve on both vehicles times. Just repaired one of them today. When an expansion valve sticks the low pressure will typically go to 10psi or lower, (restriction) the high side pressure can vary but will typically climb to above 250 and up. A properly charged and operating system should show low pressure of 28 to 30psi, the high side depending on ambient temp 170 to 225psi. plus or minus a few pounds is ok for our older vehicles as the compressors wear with age.

Post the a/c pressures and we'll get you there.
Charleston Toyota Lexus Mechanic Lex-Tech James Island West Ashley Folly Beach

IIRC, there was an expansion valve recall on my '91 FJ80. Toyota replaced it back in '99 on their dime.
Not sure if the FZJ also had the recall, but thought it might be worth mentioning.