Original steel wheels (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 26, 2020
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120
Location
Galveston, TX
Anyone know or have a set of original steel wheels for a 72 FJ40 but in a "deep dish" (10" deep) finish? Not worried about the color as I can have them powder coated. Any info is greatly appreciated.
 
That's wouldnt be a stock wheel. Stk wheels are 5 1/2" wide. A 72 wheel(drum brake) would have the centers riveted the rim. Later models are welded and will clear the caliper if you decide to upgrade to disc brakes in the front.
 
That's wouldnt be a stock wheel. Stk wheels are 5 1/2" wide. A 72 wheel(drum brake) would have the centers riveted the rim. Later models are welded and will clear the caliper if you decide to upgrade to disc brakes in the front.
the PO put disc up front for me already. This is why I have to use spacer, don't like them as I can't bolt on the nut deep enough for a secure fit. Currently the nuts go on half deep on to the spacer.
 
You can have the centers put into deeper rims. I had a set of stock centers put in 15x8 rims 20 years ago.
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I have some used stock rims that I can sell you for cores. I read of a place in Stockton (Stockton Wheel) that can put the centers in wider rims for you. It’s been a while since I’ve seen the name mentioned, and they weren’t cheap. IIRC, about $300 each. I had mine done elsewhere.
 
I have some used stock rims that I can sell you for cores. I read of a place in Stockton (Stockton Wheel) that can put the centers in wider rims for you. It’s been a while since I’ve seen the name mentioned, and they weren’t cheap. IIRC, about $300 each. I had mine done elsewhere.
I could be wrong on this, but I believe I read a thread on here where Stockton closed their doors a couple of years ago.
 
I'm a bit slow :), so these would bolt on thru the rim and thru the spacer and faster to the original studs? If so, this is exactly what I'm looking for!!
That is my thinking as well… seems to be ideal. The zinc open end hex will be fine for me.
 
Just curious, how thick are your spacers?
1/2" Thick I believe. Been a while since I bought them. So only like 1/4" protrudes the spacer for the nut to engage. Haven't had any issues as I re-torque them every 2 months, no loosening at all, but I just don't like the thought of half a nut is hanging on for dear life...lol
 
Aluminum wheel option with hubcaps if you don’t mind bumping up to 16s or 17s
 
Waiting for the extended lug nuts to come in, but thinking about it, if these lugs go thru the rim, thru the spacer and faster to the oem studs, aren't the studs on the spacer going to interfere with mounting the rim flush to the spacer? I don't think I can remove the studs on the spacer.....
 
I received these yesterday…ordered the plain zinc, they arrived in chrome… they should work well with the shaft of the nut passing thru the lug hole filling the “gap” …but I’m sending them back.
 
Ok, well the new lug nuts won't work. They are long, but the studs on the spacer keeps the rims from sitting flush onto the spacer...
Here's what I'm contending with (see pics below). The nuts that hold the spacer onto the hats are only engaging 50% and not fully. I checked the torque on them today and they have not backed out nor loosened. I just don't like the thought that only 1/2 a nut is engaged instead of a full nuts worth. What have y'all done? I know the next thing I can do is get the correct rim for the vehicle, but I just don't like the 5" wide rim, make the rig look whimpy (in my opinion). I would like a stock wheel in a 10" width. Anyone have some they want to part with?

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Can't you remove the spacers and knock out the factory studs, then replace them with longer ones? I think all you need to clear the calipers is .25" spacer unless that won't work with your wheels offset. I think I would source longer studs if you intend to keep those bolt on spacers. If they're too long, cut them flush once the spacer is re-installed.
 

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