Options for a totaled 1995 80 series diesel (1 Viewer)

[BarnFab]

I would love to hear about that. I might have a line on a 80 series with a blown engine that I could pick up for a reasonable price but it's going to come down too my insurance company and the residual value they put on it. It's not triple locked and maybe the diesel will be discounted enough to pick up for a bargain. Did you post anywhere about the project?

Not much to tell, bought a USDM Spec 94 STock 80 Series FJZ Auto

Then I bought a EU Spec HDJ80 5 Speed 1HDT

Then I made a USDm Spec 5 Speed Manual 1HDT

The USDM 80 has the same engine mounts as the 1HDT already just use the other holes, manual bolts in just move the cross member a bit and then cut a hole in teh floor for the shifter and the wall for the clutch and then pull the FJZ Crap out and put the 1HDT in .

If you can get your wreck at a good price buy it .. even if you don't use is the 1HDT Setup with trans will get north of $10k USD

 

[Riverrunner]

For those reading this it is a big concern when arranging shipping of our cruisers. I’ve used and recommended @Riverrunner multiple X’s and there’s never been a concern with me or the folks I’ve known that’s used his service. Just stinks that something like this could happen, but worse is being kept in the dark and not taking responsibility right away. Actually had a 61 I shipped from Seattle and they ran the high roof into the upper rails. Was immediately resolved and no complaints on my end.
Again, really sorry you’re going through this but know it will work out in the end.

Thanks for the kind words!

Holy Smokes! I have never had that kind of damage happen during a transport but have heard horror stories of bridge strikes. I hope that they are cooperating appropriately and not adding to the stress. If you need any guidance, feel free to reach out.

I'm not a body guy and would never assume that I knew what I was talking about in that arena, but my first thought would be to put a Campteq roof on it and never look back! It seems that half the work was done for you...

 

[BILT4ME]

A hit like that could have likely bent the frame down in the middle.

Sorry for your loss.

 

[PIP]

I'm not a paint and body guy, but a friend of mine owns a shop and does higher end work.

He picked up a low mile 7.3 Powerstroke ZF6 CCLB Lariat Superduty with the cab roof crushed in. I watched him section the cab and slice the top from a donor XL truck. He did the entire job start to finish in a day. He does work about 4 times the speed of an average human though, but still, it wasn't a huge job and it turned out nice. You could not tell.

It would take an experienced eye to tell if your body was fixable. It would be a great time to order a non-sunroof roof from Toyota.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

I'm not a paint and body guy, but a friend of mine owns a shop and does higher end work.

He picked up a low mile 7.3 Powerstroke ZF6 CCLB Lariat Superduty with the cab roof crushed in. I watched him section the cab and slice the top from a donor XL truck. He did the entire job start to finish in a day. He does work about 4 times the speed of an average human though, but still, it wasn't a huge job and it turned out nice. You could not tell.

It would take an experienced eye to tell if your body was fixable. It would be a great time to order a non-sunroof roof from Toyota.

If a non sunroof 80 (and no roof rack) is of interest I have one sitting on my place. Took it off a totaled 80 years ago. Even have the original headliner and bows. Not intending to solicitit on this thread but I have a for sale post somewhere in the classifieds

 

[Rollinns]

Buy it back if you can no matter what, you'll find an option that works for you.
I would take it some where capable of checking the frame for damage.
If at all possible, make sure it still runs and drives, (kick out the windshield & vacuum the seats) and basically checking for any accident-related mechanical issues that may not be readily seen.

Option 1:
If there's no frame damage, body swap it. When the body is off the donor, inspect it for rust, damage, etc, address the problem areas and when the interior is stripped out, add sound deadening and spray it with an insulating coating (I prefer DIY Lizard Skin), add some inside the doors too.
You likely need the dash wiring harness because the gauges will be specific to the diesel, since both will be LHD this should be much easier.
Address any known maintenance items on the drivetrain while the body is off, but don't go too far down the "while I'm in there" rabbit hole, just get it together and working. Worry about the suspension and bumpers later. The faster you can get it driving, the more it will feel like progress and less like an albatross.
Grab all the good stuff from the wrecked interior that non-US models got.
You'll be able to make a decent amount back from selling the gasser drivetrain and the usable body parts from the wreck.
You may want to take both vehicle titles to the DMV, they will likely title it with the VIN from the body donor.

Option 2:
Drivetrain swap, gauges (and or dash) swap, fuel tank swap (look into fuel tank coatings as now would be the time to coat it, or move to a long ranger tank). The situation regarding the fuel lines (supply and return), I'm not sure about but likely MUD members here know.

Option 3:
Fix the body - IMO this only ends in two ways A. mis-fitting doors, rattles, squeaks, leaks, etc B. A really really expensive and/or time consuming process.

I owned a body-swapped LHD diesel 60 (Canadian diesel drivetrain with a US gasser body) that the previous owner had swapped. We loved that truck but had to sell it because we couldn't get it back to the US (it had nothing to do with the body swap).

I would recommend option 1. and discourage option 3.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I'm not a paint and body guy, but a friend of mine owns a shop and does higher end work.

He picked up a low mile 7.3 Powerstroke ZF6 CCLB Lariat Superduty with the cab roof crushed in. I watched him section the cab and slice the top from a donor XL truck. He did the entire job start to finish in a day. He does work about 4 times the speed of an average human though, but still, it wasn't a huge job and it turned out nice. You could not tell.

It would take an experienced eye to tell if your body was fixable. It would be a great time to order a non-sunroof roof from Toyota.

That's a completely unrealistic exception that isn't gonna be achieved by your average shop, let alone DIY

To swap a roof by sectioning and picking apart seams and multi layer structural sections without compromising strength of the repaired body is not gonna happen in a day.

Your buddy is either a freak, or cut a lot of corners

 

[mudgudgeon]

Buy it back if you can no matter what, you'll find an option that works for you.
I would take it some where capable of checking the frame for damage.
If at all possible, make sure it still runs and drives, (kick out the windshield & vacuum the seats) and basically checking for any accident-related mechanical issues that may not be readily seen.

Option 1:
If there's no frame damage, body swap it. When the body is off the donor, inspect it for rust, damage, etc, address the problem areas and when the interior is stripped out, add sound deadening and spray it with an insulating coating (I prefer DIY Lizard Skin), add some inside the doors too.
You likely need the dash wiring harness because the gauges will be specific to the diesel, since both will be LHD this should be much easier.
Address any known maintenance items on the drivetrain while the body is off, but don't go too far down the "while I'm in there" rabbit hole, just get it together and working. Worry about the suspension and bumpers later. The faster you can get it driving, the more it will feel like progress and less like an albatross.
Grab all the good stuff from the wrecked interior that non-US models got.
You'll be able to make a decent amount back from selling the gasser drivetrain and the usable body parts from the wreck.
You may want to take both vehicle titles to the DMV, they will likely title it with the VIN from the body donor.

Option 2:
Drivetrain swap, gauges (and or dash) swap, fuel tank swap (look into fuel tank coatings as now would be the time to coat it, or move to a long ranger tank). The situation regarding the fuel lines (supply and return), I'm not sure about but likely MUD members here know.

Option 3:
Fix the body - IMO this only ends in two ways A. mis-fitting doors, rattles, squeaks, leaks, etc B. A really really expensive and/or time consuming process.

I owned a body-swapped LHD diesel 60 (Canadian diesel drivetrain with a US gasser body) that the previous owner had swapped. We loved that truck but had to sell it because we couldn't get it back to the US (it had nothing to do with the body swap).

I would recommend option 1. and discourage option 3.

This ^^

There'll be quite a few JDM, diesel, and manual specific bits and pieces, and wiring harnesses you'll want to hold onto until you have 100% completed a swap and given the whole thing a good shakedown over time.

 

[PIP]

That's a completely unrealistic exception that isn't gonna be achieved by your average shop, let alone DIY

To swap a roof by sectioning and picking apart seams and multi layer structural sections without compromising strength of the repaired body is not gonna happen in a day.

Your buddy is either a freak, or cut a lot of corners

You don't pick apart the seams to replace a vehicle roof. That's not how anybody does it. You cut it where convenient and make a proper weld joint for the application.

 

[mudgudgeon]

You don't pick apart the seams to replace a vehicle roof. That's not how anybody does it. You cut it where convenient and make a proper weld joint for the application.

Remind me not to ride in a vehicle you've repaired.

There's reasons cars aren't manufactured with butt joints in structural elements

 

[PIP]

Remind me not to ride in a vehicle you've repaired.

There's reasons cars aren't manufactured with butt joints in structural elements

You sure assume plenty.

 

[mudgudgeon]

You sure assume plenty.

OK, I'll rephrase. Remind me not to ride in a vehicle you've replaced the top half of in one day

 

[veiloctane]

So I found a 1995 80 series diesel with left hand drive, and 5 sp manual with a 150K miles ( Panama car originally). had it baselined, lifted and added all the usual good stuff. Its was picked up in Texas to be delivered to me in WA. Not 30 miles into the transport the driver tried to go under an overpass ( not sure exactly how it happened) and tore the roof almost completely off.

Other than tearing the roof off everything else seems ok. I am wondering if I buy back the vehicle for its residual value from the insurance company ( if they will let me) what are some realistic options for rebuilding it?

I understand if money was not object a lot could be done, but does it make sense to try to find an 80 series with a blown engine and a good body and exchange out the bodies or do I take the engine and transmission and put it into another 80 series?

Has anyone done that kind of swap? I think doing an engine and transmission swap into another 80 would be the easiest but I really don't know.

View attachment 3334285

View attachment 3334294

View attachment 3334295

oh man thats the same color as mine are you parting any parts?

im looking for interior pieces

Rear headrests
Rear seat belts with brackets

 

[YMT]

@NuchatlitzRod any update?

If you have the garage/shop space, you can swap the bodies. I would not recommend a roof swap. I started down this road a few years back, and found it was extremely difficult to get the cuts to line enough to weld, plus I had concerns about structural integrity.

IF you go the body swap, there's plenty of while-you're-in-there things to do; I'm still working on mine, stalled by life too.

IF you choose to body swap, I would give the chassis and suspension a very detailed inspection. Depending on how the shipper had it secured, there could have been significant strain on the frame and suspension from the impact, beyond normal conditions (thinking bent frame, or potentially damaged locally where the straps/chains were secured).

That sucks it happened. I hope the shipper and insurance made it right.