Opinions wanted: SBC location in FJ40

[Oldcruiserguy]

Hi All,

I'd welcome some feedback on engine placement in my situation.

1970 FJ40
Toyota 4 sp manual H42?
Toyota 4 sp TC
AA Bell housing, motor mounts, TC Crossmember and mounts.

The pics and details of the issues of choosing the right position are on my build thread. I'm trying to keep a low center of gravity, fit the headers, and the radiator hose is an issue too.

My build thread:
http://forum.cascadecruisers.com/index.php?topic=4545.105

Thanks,

OldCruiserGuy

 

[bikersmurf]

Can't view your thread...

For comparison, https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/448066-sbc-swap-manual-steering-2.html... Pics of mine, working well since 96.

 

[huminajumina]

I am about to start bolting up my 350sbc and nv4500 to my 1968. I have done a lot of reading on here and advance adapters, obviously more towards the NV4500 and SBC combo. but some of it is pretty good for both, and keep in mind I haven't done it yet so everyone correct me.... The 1F,2F is offcentered pretty good to the drivers side, they recommend putting the V8 at about 1inch to the drivers side, and then if you use the AA mounts to put the "L" 8-12" from rear of stock shock tower. I am sure you read that whole page?? I think for you, you are going to want to watch the dizzy and firewall area for clearance, do you have power steering? clearance on the steering box, then the radiator clearance, I plan on bolting all of mine up and sliding it in and measuring everything.... If I remember correctly you can keep your driveshaft lengths the same right??? so maybe bolting it all up and puting it in and then measuring will let you know if that location works and the dizzy is clear....

 

[Rice]

The online AA conversion manual:
http://www.advanceadapters.com/pdf/tlc_ebook.pdf

 

[nspctr1]

Where ever you place it, you want to make sure to keep enough room between the motor and firewall in case you need to adjust, remove or repair the distributor.

GL

 

[Oldcruiserguy]

Hey bikersmurf, your pictures were worth thousands of words. Very helpful!

No power steering to be installed at this stage, humanguy, and with the lift, I will be having both drive lines modded by a local machine shop for about $100 each. He's done some for me before.

I have a plan now. All the input has helped a great deal. I'll post up that plan on the build thread.

Thanks!

OldCruiserGuy

 

[lcwizard]

I am about to start bolting up my 350sbc The 1F,2F is offcentered pretty good to the drivers side, they recommend putting the V8 at about 1inch to the drivers side, and then if you use the AA mounts to put the "L" 8-12" from rear of stock shock tower. ....

If you put that mount 11~12 inches from the center of the shock tower you will have enough room for a mechanical fan, shroud etc. Anything farther forward
and you'll have clearance issues up front. I usually settle about 11 1/2" with the top of the AA frame bracket 3/8"~1/2" over the top of the frame rail. Most every
conversion I do has an automatic anymore so overall length is a concern for rear driveshaft setup. If you're using a standard that is shorter you can move the mounts back an inch or two but if you go too far back you may have cooling issues

 

[fj40duge]

I have researched mud about SBC mounts also. I haven't heard many good things about the AA mounts. You can make your own mounts with dom, use OEM chevy engine mounts, or the finesteins mounts (spelling?) I have heard good things about them and you can adj the engine where ever you want. I think I'm gonna fab up chevy OEM. Just my .02 worth. I'm gonna subscribe. I'm intrerested in waht everone has to say.

 

[lcwizard]

I have researched mud about SBC mounts also. I haven't heard many good things about the AA mounts. You can make your own mounts with dom, use OEM chevy engine mounts, or the finesteins mounts (spelling?) I have heard good things about them and you can adj the engine where ever you want. I think I'm gonna fab up chevy OEM. Just my .02 worth. I'm gonna subscribe. I'm intrerested in waht everone has to say.

I've never had any fail, even in a rollover. You should rechecked the bolts for slack every now and then as the rubber compresses with age and the bolts need to be reset. I do modify them to keep the motor from shifting when this occurs by
welding a steel ring ( three inch exhaust works )about 3/8"~1/2" tall on the flat where the doughnut sits. This prevents the rubber doughnut from sliding around if the bolt loosens

 

[bikersmurf]

Hey bikersmurf, your pictures were worth thousands of words. Very helpful!

No power steering to be installed at this stage, humanguy, and with the lift, I will be having both drive lines modded by a local machine shop for about $100 each. He's done some for me before.

I have a plan now. All the input has helped a great deal. I'll post up that plan on the build thread.

Thanks!

OldCruiserGuy

You're welcome.

There are different versions of the Ram's horn manifolds, but this setup has worked very well for me. I figured out placement based on a mix of Downey and Advance's instructions. Mine is mounted much lower than many I've seen. I rested the mounts on scraps of 1"x2" on top of the frame. I had a mechanic friend of mine check it out before I had the mounts welded in, and went with it... To do it over, I'd move it a hair further back to make both driveshafts the same length (only about 3/4" difference).

One of the manuals didn't recommend the Ram's Horn manifolds, but they came with the motor, and I'm very happy with them.

 

[shelfboy1]

i dont know whats up with aa mounts been using them for over 30 years on small blocks big blocks and in between blocks with no problems.maybey the newer ones are made in china or not as heavy as the older ones.

 

[Redgrrr]

Ramhorn manifolds are kinda ugly but perform well. They don't spit out doughnuts and seal very well to the block. Just my .02

If you can find two passenger sides you can do without the generator brackets it looks a little cleaner

 

[huminajumina]

If you put that mount 11~12 inches from the center of the shock tower you will have enough room for a mechanical fan, shroud etc. Anything farther forward
and you'll have clearance issues up front. I usually settle about 11 1/2" with the top of the AA frame bracket 3/8"~1/2" over the top of the frame rail. Most every
conversion I do has an automatic anymore so overall length is a concern for rear driveshaft setup. If you're using a standard that is shorter you can move the mounts back an inch or two but if you go too far back you may have cooling issues

Hey thanks for the heads up, I hope this is useful to Oldcruiserguy too, I don't wanna hijack this thread!! haha. I am using a long NV4500 so I will probably be going the other way if anything, with the position you talk about do you use the long neck water pump and a fan with or without clutch??

 

[Tokamak]

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/603329-350-tbi-engine-height.html

Here is a thread that has the Firestien and AA mounts. Engine (SBC) position considerations.