Opinions on rust

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Just keep an eye on it and use wire brush/ POR 15 application as needed.

Nothing prevents rust better than regular washing. My 04 has barely any surface rust and is driven 50miles/day in the winter on NJ salt covered roads.
 
I just moved to New England from the West Coast, and find this fascinating.

Are there services that can do the cleaning and oil application for you, or are you better off doing it yourself?

No one will be as meticulous as you, but a place like Krown will probably do it! They are "total car care specialists"
 
Just keep an eye on it and use wire brush/ POR 15 application as needed.

Nothing prevents rust better than regular washing. My 04 has barely any surface rust and is driven 50miles/day in the winter on NJ salt covered roads.

Don't entirely agree

Washing your car in the middle of winter can cause rust issues, due to moisture getting into places it regularly wouldn't, freezing latches, locks etc etc... Also salt doesn't eat metal in temperatures below 0 degrees C at least the processes is slowed to a crawl, if the vehicle is properly coated in oil you don't have to worry anyway...

I have only ever used POR 15 high temp paint, it was pretty good I must say, stuck to a surface rusted exhaust like crazy... However i've read mixed reviews and in my neck of the woods you could oil your entire truck for the cost of a tiny bit of that stuff!
 
How long does the burning oil smell stick around after having the undercarriage painted?
 
I went out to look at mine and it looks just the same as the two shown; rusting in the exact same places. Mine is not as advanced as either in the pics. I will take it apart to see what is going on. What would the best repair? What should I do to keep it from returning?
BTW I don't have any rust anywhere else on the body. 100% New England use -148,000 miles.
Steve
 
How long does the burning oil smell stick around after having the undercarriage painted?

It depends on the oil you had sprayed on if it's a light oil that drips it should burn off after 20 mins or so, if it's a waxy fluid film type oil it may take a while... Some varsol gloves and an old T shirt will make quick work of it if you don't wanna smell it anymore...
 
I went out to look at mine and it looks just the same as the two shown; rusting in the exact same places. Mine is not as advanced as either in the pics. I will take it apart to see what is going on. What would the best repair? What should I do to keep it from returning?
BTW I don't have any rust anywhere else on the body. 100% New England use -148,000 miles.
Steve

Phosphoric acid the spot, let it sit overnight. Get creative with some painters tape if you need the acid to sit in a vertical spot... It will eat rust, not clean metal and will leave a protective film when it wears itself out, it isn't terrible on paint either! Give it a quick sand and you can get most local parts places to pix you up some touch up paint in a rattle can or whatever..

If you can't get to it right away, find a spray can of oil made to stop rust and spray the spots, won't be pretty but it will stop it from growing or eating anymore metal!
 
Got to agree with winkworth, rust blows but it is not the end of the world (well maybe it is in a philosophical sense, but thats not for this discussion). My 2000 came with bad hatch rust at the pinch seam and the latch itself was near failure from rust on the handle itself. ALso had rust on front 1/4 panel. Fixed 1/4 panel myself after body shop said it would be 1200 with no warranty then got a lexus hatch form a dismantler for 500, color match was perfect (plain old black). New hatch has minor rust in same place, but I fluid film the inside and outside semi-annually. You can work around the rust shown without spending too much money. Run the hatch till it fails (its a self contained problem) then replace it entirely try the undercoating shops for preventative maintenance on the rest.
 
Thanks guys. -- My next project!
 
ATF works great also. It's thinner than oil and speads on easier. What type of oil can you get in a rattle can? I need to pick up a few.
 
rust sucks and it's not the end of the world if you have it. But it is worth finding one without it. Especially body rust like that. My PA truck had surface rust underneath and on every bolt underneath. But very little body rust. When I bought a new 100 last month, no rust was my only priority.
 
ATF works great also. It's thinner than oil and speads on easier. What type of oil can you get in a rattle can? I need to pick up a few.

FluidFilm. It's kind of like what the Euro folks use (Waxoyl). I got a gallon pail and a bunch of cans. Really like it so far.

I get mine from this vendor.
http://www.kellsportproducts.com/
 
From another rust post......"I am going to second the use of fluid film as the best preventative maintenance for rust prevention, protection and spread arrest. I live in Maine where the use of salt and brine solutions is common practice in winter. I have a 99 that I have owned since 04. Staring using fluid film two years ago and it has effectively halted any rust progression on the undercarriage (wish I started using it in 04). It is a quality product (designed for use or farm equipment exposed to harsh chemical fertilizers) that I would suggest on any "rust belt" cruiser. Use it annually in the fall, brave the week of strong odor from the product and you'll reduce rust and rust spread."

Fluid film is lanolin, not petroleum based. It's a good product worth consideration for rust protection based on my experience. I would have to agree that acquiring a used LC from drier climate would be preferred, but if that isn't an option (a good used 100 series LC is getting harder to find) don't be afraid of a little rust. Just start treating it immediately and you'll gets years of use. Think of it like changing the oil as a regular maintenance item. Frankly, I am impressed with how well these vehicles hold up against rust. It adds to their appeal from my perspective and latitude....
 
Fluid film is lanolin, not petroleum based. It's a good product worth consideration for rust protection based on my experience. I would have to agree that acquiring a used LC from drier climate would be preferred, but if that isn't an option (a good used 100 series LC is getting harder to find) don't be afraid of a little rust. Just start treating it immediately and you'll gets years of use. Think of it like changing the oil as a regular maintenance item. Frankly, I am impressed with how well these vehicles hold up against rust. It adds to their appeal from my perspective and latitude....


Mainecruiser,
Thanks for the clarification! Lanolin comes from sheep's wool right? Pretty neat that it works as a rust inhibitor.

Oh and I found a US distributer for Waxoyl, in one of my favorites.
http://www.waxoyl-usa.com/
 
It's amazing what phosphoric acid a wire wheel and some paint can do for trouble spots as long as they are still solid...

I strongly disagree with all the above posts on rust... All of the replies must be from people that don't live in a rust belt and have little or no experience dealing with rust properly...

You can stop rust with the proper oil undercoatings and knowing when to clean your truck and when it's okay to let salt sit on it.... Phosphoric acid eats rust and not clean metal....

If there aren't gaping holes in the tub or frame it's golden!

It's a f'in toyota, ahh s*** I'm not on the 70 forum anyway!

Cheers

Super Ditto. I've lived all over the country from Arizona, to Michigan. I know rust...it can be a show stopper (I've seen pickup truck frames rust in half) but minor rust can also be dealt with. When you live up here, you WILL have to deal with rust someday. Keeping a close eye on your truck and being diligent about touching up spots every spring/summer and you'll keep it looking sharp for a long time. That rust was minor. I'd use it as a bargaining tool, but it really was minor. That being said, I drove 2300 miles round trip to buy my land cruiser in West Palm Beach, Florida. So it's clean as a whistle. I love that. And I plan on coating my frame and oiling my panels...but minor rust isn't a show stopper.
 
Or... we have experience with rust and know what a HUGE pain in the ass it is. After this picture was taken, this Jeep was disassembled and scraped - body and frame picked up by the recycler. Every time I was under the Jeep - changing the oil or chaining the suspension... I'd see that rust... knowing the Jeep's days were limited. That just sucked.

132-3254_IMG.jpg


Rust sucks. After 5 Jeeps - ALL eventually rusting badly - I gave up on Jeep's early attempts at rustproofing (apparently a mixture of sea salt and lotion) and built my own CJ from scratch! NO OLD METAL. Well, except the frame - which was media blasted to raw metal and POR'ed.
Jeep didn't use galvenized steel until 1988, the second year of the YJ. YJ tub swaps to old CJs are extremely popular for a reason and I did one on my '77 CJ-7:steer:
 
Hi all,

Thanks for all the advice, I think I'll pass on this one. The truck is in new England so it will continue to live in the rust belt. The search goes on!

Thanks!
Todd

look on ebay and buy one from Florida or texas. A lot of the luxury car dealers get them on trade, and being too old to put on their used lots, they post them on ebay. I bought one from Orlando and had it inspected by the toyota dealer before buying. :steer:
 
I view rust like VD. Sure you can deal with it, but do you really want to have too.



:hillbilly::D:D:hhmm:
 
I view rust like VD. Sure you can deal with it, but do you really want to have too.

:hillbilly::D:D:hhmm:

If i wasn't on my phone i'd use this as my sig :)

Otoh i looked at a truck from NY that was rusted to hell compared to the ones i've seen locally.
 
not sure if the truck was ever purchased; i have a 2006 LX in philadelphia and have the same rust pattern on the tail gate. seems leaks thru roof stop light and then rust from the inside.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom