Operation limp 80

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So, update...

- I have poly performance axles on the way.
- I have a deal lined up on a FF non-locker 80 third and spare stock axles
- I need to drop coin on an 80 series rear ARB...oof $700
- I have onboard air...all set there
- I think the ARB comes with the switch, solenoid, and tubes, etc right?

That means I am $700 and a load of labor from putting this behind me for good.

Thinking I can run with the twisted splines for a bit till the budget allows for the ARB...perhaps I can get lucky at a ride or something and get a discount...I wish I was a tax deductable charity ;P

So, anyone need a locking 4.11 rear diff? how about a rear actuator? :)
 
DanKunz said:
So, update...

- I have poly performance axles on the way.
- I have a deal lined up on a FF non-locker 80 third and spare stock axles
- I need to drop coin on an 80 series rear ARB...oof $700
- I have onboard air...all set there
- I think the ARB comes with the switch, solenoid, and tubes, etc right?

That means I am $700 and a load of labor from putting this behind me for good.

Thinking I can run with the twisted splines for a bit till the budget allows for the ARB...perhaps I can get lucky at a ride or something and get a discount...I wish I was a tax deductable charity ;P

So, anyone need a locking 4.11 rear diff? how about a rear actuator? :)
Click to expand...

Do you have an air tank with your compressor? I believe the line, switch and
solenoid is included. Pressure switch is needed for the tank. Drain cock ain't a bad idea either. An in-line dryer/seperator is nice too. Pressure relief valve
is good too. I like running the lines inside a fuel line hose to protect from chaffing as well. Line pressure gauge is nice.
 
I have a 110 on and 150 off pressure switch on the compressor now. I have an 8 gallon tank in the rear. I have a quick connect on the rear bumper for airing up and air tools, etc. I can easily T into the air line to the rear connector and then have a very short and safe run to the rear diff...no problemo.
 
DanKunz said:
I have a 110 on and 150 off pressure switch on the compressor now. I have an 8 gallon tank in the rear. I have a quick connect on the rear bumper for airing up and air tools, etc. I can easily T into the air line to the rear connector and then have a very short and safe run to the rear diff...no problemo.
Click to expand...

Seals in the ARB are only good to 115psi.:eek:
With a 8 gal tank @ 150psi you will only need to fill it once a year to run your ARB:cool:
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
Seals in the ARB are only good to 115psi.:eek:
Click to expand...

I found this out years ago. Blew my pinion seal out after the rear axle was pressurized by the ARB locker leaking. Sounded like a 12 gage going off. :eek:

You'll need to add a regulated line for you air locker, Dan. You can tap into your air source anywhere. The locker comes with some long tubing to run to the diff. The air valves for my 40 ARB's are located in the engine compartment.
 
Capt. Jim said:
I found this out years ago. Blew my pinion seal out after the rear axle was pressurized by the ARB locker leaking. Sounded like a 12 gage going off. :eek:

You'll need to add a regulated line for you air locker, Dan. You can tap into your air source anywhere. The locker comes with some long tubing to run to the diff. The air valves for my 40 ARB's are located in the engine compartment.
Click to expand...

Hehe....after hearing the Captn's "there she blows" story I took heed and
added a pressure relief valve and regulator. The dryer/seperator helps keep water out of those solenoids, which I heard don't like H2O. It collects a good bit of water
with a week's worth of use. Ounce of prevention thing.
With my 5 gallon tank the compressor doesn't turn on all day long even with
frequent cycling for turning, backing, etc. :grinpimp: Man, those compressor are noisy.
 
I have a 150 ExtremeAir compressor and can air up the tank in about 5 minutes from 0 psi to 150 psi...won't take but a second to drive an ARB.

I will add a T with a regulator, dryer, solenoid, etc. Will probably just put it back in the quarter panel since it is so close to the tanks and I can wire the electric stuff interior that way.
 
I am not overly knowledgable about all this eletric or air driven cylinoids - but I have a bunch of ARB stuff due to my last compressor issues. Let me know if you need any switches or harness - thinkl I have a bunch of extra you might find helpufl... Let me know.
 
Due to budget and time constraints (not to mention the KISS rule) I have ordered an aussie locker for the unlocked third member I bought from a mudder.

This means I can extract the twisted spline by burning off the collar and fork, remove the e-locker third, swap gears to the non-e-locker third, install aussie locker, reinstall, install new poly axles, and call it a day.

Then I can sell the stock geared e-locker third and actuator to recoupe costs.

ARB lockers are upward of $750-800. Aussie was $250 shipped and doesn't exactly have a lot of doodads to go bad (switches, air, etc) so I consider it more reliable for what I do. I also have a LWB so the ratcheting thing is a non-issue for me.
 
Dan

Don't you have to have a locked rear diff indication before the front diff will lock? How will you do this?

Your setup will be similar to mine. I think you had rear axle dowel problems before. I believe the ratcheting action is tough on full floters. You might have to keep an eye on the cone washers and dowels more closely after installing the Aussie. Anybody else heard the same about lunchbox lockers and full float axles??
 
Slee has an ARB in the back of the short bus, you can jump the harness on the indicator circuit to show the rear locked all the time.

I can tighten bolts every day for free, plus I plan on using loc-tite on the nuts since they can sheer off but they are not allowed to back off :)
 
DanKunz said:
.... Aussie was $250 shipped and doesn't exactly have a lot of doodads to go bad (switches, air, etc) so I consider it more reliable for what I do. I also have a LWB so the ratcheting thing is a non-issue for me.
Click to expand...

I saw my first Aussie Locker a few weeks ago - have to say I was impressed by the improvements to the spring system versus my lockright and the no slip I carry for a spare... Pulling lock right springs in the dark absolutely sucks :mad:
 
yeah, the side access setup in the aussie is awesome. Lock rights SUCK to install.
 
chocolate vs vanilla

DanKunz said:
yeah, the side access setup in the aussie is awesome. Lock rights SUCK to install.
Click to expand...

Lock rights are easy to install. Not so easy to remove without buggering the springs. BTDT.
I've installed my own Lock Right and helped on Alex's Aussie. Not a big difference
in install times. In fact we had to do a little grinding on Alex's clips to get
his Aussie installed and I left some of my blood in his diff. :grinpimp:
I do agree the Aussie is the way to go however I love my Lock Right.
I just keep spare pins and springs. Reminds me to hit up Richmond Gear for
some spares for the Wild Boys from Fla. :flamingo: That'd include you Bill. ;)
I'm going to ask Wild Bill's tech questions on the tour too.
 
FF install isn't as bad from what I understand since the third will be pulled, etc and no clips.
 
Update...

I got the twisted side in and engaged, seems strong.

I got the broken side out (somehow an ARC welder showed up in my garage :rolleyes: ) and the poly axle is in on that side.

Now I have to replace the front pinion seal since the FWD has vibrated it a bit and leaks and fill the rear and I can wheel again.

I have the long side poly axle, a non-locker third, and an aussie locker all heading to my house, so I can schedule some time to go cut the collar off the twisted side, pull third, swap gears and install aussie, and reinstall with poly across the back....end result, locked rear with no more issues on getting a twisted spline bound up.

YAY! Road to recovery!
 
Show that axle who's boss

DanKunz said:
Update...

I got the twisted side in and engaged, seems strong.

I got the broken side out (somehow an ARC welder showed up in my garage :rolleyes: ) and the poly axle is in on that side.

Now I have to replace the front pinion seal since the FWD has vibrated it a bit and leaks and fill the rear and I can wheel again.

I have the long side poly axle, a non-locker third, and an aussie locker all heading to my house, so I can schedule some time to go cut the collar off the twisted side, pull third, swap gears and install aussie, and reinstall with poly across the back....end result, locked rear with no more issues on getting a twisted spline bound up.

YAY! Road to recovery!
Click to expand...

Where there is a will...there is a way! :cheers:
 
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