One Person Brake Bleed and Flush (1 Viewer)

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Sorry for a rather elementary question: The brake fluid in our 40 looks very dark and I would like to flush it and start with all new fluid. Looking to the forum for any suggestions on if there are any recommended power flush systems that fit our dual reservoir master cylinder with the rubber pop-off lids.
Thanks!
 
Sorry for a rather elementary question: The brake fluid in our 40 looks very dark and I would like to flush it and start with all new fluid. Looking to the forum for any suggestions on if there are any recommended power flush systems that fit our dual reservoir master cylinder with the rubber pop-off lids.
Thanks!

For a complete flush, the Motive Products power bleeder is hard to beat. It does require compressed air to charge the bottle.

Import Power Bleeder Kits - https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/import-power-bleeder-kits

The Phoenix Systems bleeder could also be used, but the reservoir is smaller and you might have to refill it during a complete flush.

Brake Fluid Flush | How to Check Brake Fluid | Phoenix Brake Bleeder | Brake Bleeder - https://www.brakebleeder.com/

I have both. The Phoenix Systems bleeder is easier to use IMO; the Motive Products power bleeder works well as long as you can get a really good seal over the top of the master cylinder reservoir(s), but this can be fiddly and sometimes requires multiple attempts to get it right. But either one makes brake bleeding and flushing a one-man job.
 
Based on recommendations here, I purchased the Mocive Universal unit. It’s a game changer. I’ve used it on several brake jobs with good results.
 
Is the procedure for flushing out the dirty clutch fluid basically the same as flushing the brakes? I thought that I would do the brakes and clutch at the same time, but having never bled a hydraulic clutch system, curious if there are any things to look out for.
Thanks.
 
Is the procedure for flushing out the dirty clutch fluid basically the same as flushing the brakes? I thought that I would do the brakes and clutch at the same time, but having never bled a hydraulic clutch system, curious if there are any things to look out for.
Thanks.

Clutch is a lot easier to do than the brakes, because it is so short of a line and a smaller reservoir, but otherwise yeah the procedure is the same.
 
This cheaper one works fine for me. "Allstar" Although it's small enough to misplace it, and when you get tired of searching for it you'll buy another so it wasn't so cheap for me. And of course you'll find the first one when you go to put away the second one.
 
This cheaper one works fine for me. "Allstar" Although it's small enough to misplace it, and when you get tired of searching for it you'll buy another so it wasn't so cheap for me. And of course you'll find the first one when you go to put away the second one.

I'm getting old and forgetful enough that I have bought some tools twice, because I forgot i had the first one. :confused:
 
A cheap turkey baster or horse syringe is good for removing most of the old fluid first, if you don’t have a power bleeder. I’ve even disconnected the lines at the master cylinder and stuck them in a bottle and used the horse syringe and a hose to push fluid from the bleeder end at wheel cylinder/caliper/slave cylinder up and out. This is how I learned to do motorcycles without a helper. Still need the helper on cars when bleeding though.
 
These pumps all have screw on caps? Do these work with single circuit drum masters with rubber caps?
 
These pumps all have screw on caps? Do these work with single circuit drum masters with rubber caps?
The motive unit is available with a universal connection which has a wide rubber flange that seals against the top of the brake fluid reservoir.
 
This unit here:


EB52CC1F-D415-48DE-BEC1-0DFEA8DC3E40.png
 
I have come to dread the word "Universal". I tried this power bleeder cap hoping it would seal to the unthreaded master cylinder reservoirs. It was a complete wase.
Amazon product ASIN B08RSX38QLMaybe the Motive Universal cap is better.
 
I use the Phoenix system. Their connectors and collection bottle are tops.
 
So basically all these kits are is a way to pressurize the line to blow out the fluid and gunk? Then you just fill the system with fluid again and bleed the air out?
These systems pressurize brake fluid and use clean brake fluid to push the air and old fluids/moisture out. There is brake fluid in the tool’s reservoir. Basically a weed sprayer filled with brake fluid, hooked to your master cylinder reservoir(s)
 
^this.

I have to take issue with the use of "compressed air" to bleed brakes. Yes, you have to pump air into the Motive reservoir to push the brake fluid out, but connecting compressor air to your brakes is a bad idea. Air compressors put much more water into a given volume of air than the hand pump, on the Motive, for example, will, and you do not want water in your brake lines.

As to connecting the Motive system to the master cylinder(s), the Motive catalog has a number of different caps available, you need to check with them to determine which one you need for the different size master cylinder reservoirs. There are also compatible caps for use with the Motive system, from others. I use the Motive exclusively on my 80, along with the Power Probe BA-10 adaptor, but it only has one reservoir. I will say the Motive chain-clamp sucks; the Power Probe twist lock is much better. Motive has been around long enough now to have fixed this, but they haven't. A quick search will turn up lots of others. Don't pay any attention to the model the cap is marketed for, you only need the correct dimensions.

As far as the garden sprayer analogy goes, it's schematically correct , but not functionally comparable. The Motive seals are designed for higher pressure and are brake fluid compatible. I just throw this out, in the event that your are inspired to make your own. If you're careful, it'll probably work. Once.
 

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