On vehicle rotor resurfacing

[Pucker5]

Hey all, my 03 Lc needs new front pads and I’m going to go with Toyota oem or advics but my question is does anyone know if any National places have the on vehicle rotor resurfacing capabilities. My rotors were put on new relatively recent and they bearings were repacked at same time so I’m not trying to do all that this time around. Any insight appreciated

 

[kevgentile]

Unless you have a specific reason to needing to cut the rotors I'd just install the pads and go.

 

[dbleon]

Pad slap .. done

 

[Pucker5]

Yeah my last pads were centric fleets which were a metallic pad so they stopped well but I wanted to be sure to correct any abnormalities created metal on metal heat

 

[kevgentile]

Yeah my last pads were centric fleets which were a metallic pad so they stopped well but I wanted to be sure to correct any abnormalities created metal on metal heat

Just use some coarse scotch or 600 emory with some wd or crc followed by a wash with brake clean. We have to do this when changing compounds on our track bikes.

 

[2001LC]

You can just sand paper or even green Scott-pad rotors. This will help clean, some of imbedded pad material off rotor disk. Which is fine, when rotors within spec and not grooved.

What I never do, is just toss in pads. I so often find issues, from others doing just that. Key point are shims, wear indicators, pins, rear slide pins and their boots, clips, springs, fitting kits, opening bleeder to compress pistons, flushing & bleeding and bleeder caps.

If rotors out of spec, or brakes feel off. "Off Like" brake pull, mild peddle pulse, steering wheel gyration or all out vehicle bucking. OTV lathe is the way to go, especially on the 100 series.
Some mild steering wheel pulse, only showing up when over heating brakes. Like when riding brakes, to control down hill speed. That's what the transmission gears are for.


Today, I'm using the Procut OTV lathe. Which most if not all Toyota and Lexus Dealerships have in shop. I use whenever runout or variation in thickness between inner and outer disk (parallelism), out of spec. Or I feel even mild pedal pulse.
Parallelism is difficult to measure at max of .0008" and rarely done. It will not show out during a typical runout inspection. But can result in the whole vehicle bucking violently.

Some of the benefits, of using an OTV (On The Vehicle) lathe. It is done with rotors on the vehicle, so can be done anytime. Which with our front hub assembly, is especially sweet, as save labor saver. Additionally, rotors are turned true to the vehicle.

 

[Pucker5]

You can just sand paper or even green Scott-pad rotors. This will help clean, some of imbedded pad material off rotor disk. Which is fine, when rotors within spec and not grooved.

What I never do, is just toss in pads. I so often find issues, from others doing just that. Key point are shims, wear indicators, pins, rear slide pins and their boots, clips, springs, fitting kits, opening bleeder to compress pistons, flushing & bleeding and bleeder caps.

If rotors out of spec, or brakes feel off. "Off Like" brake pull, mild peddle pulse, steering wheel gyration or all out vehicle bucking. OTV lathe is the way to go, especially on the 100 series.
Some mild steering wheel pulse, only showing up when over heating brakes. Like when riding brakes, to control down hill speed. That's what the transmission gears are for.


Today, I'm using the Procut OTV lathe. Which most if not all Toyota and Lexus Dealerships have in shop. I use whenever runout or variation in thickness between inner and outer disk (parallelism), out of spec. Or I feel even mild pedal pulse.
Parallelism is difficult to measure at max of .0008" and rarely done. It will not show out during a typical runout inspection. But can result in the whole vehicle bucking violently.

Some of the benefits, of using an OTV (On The Vehicle) lathe. It is done with rotors on the vehicle, so can be done anytime. Which with our front hub assembly, is especially sweet, as save labor saver. Additionally, rotors are turned true to the vehicle.

Yeah I’d prefer to proactively resurface with otv lathe but local yota stealership wants 350$ for the front brake pads and otv resurface.

Cray price

 

[vipergrhd]

Yeah I’d prefer to proactively resurface with otv lathe but local yota stealership wants 350$ for the front brake pads and otv resurface.

Cray price

I worked for a dealership long time ago and the shop did have an on car brake lathe, there are only a few mechanics in the shop that are allowed to use it being it is expensive to get it calibrated and repair any broken parts. For $350 I say it's not bad most dealers out here in my area are in the $200/hr range.

 

[2001LC]

Yeah I’d prefer to proactively resurface with otv lathe but local yota stealership wants 350$ for the front brake pads and otv resurface.

Cray price

It is absolute best to turn rotors with new pads. It will not only give better braking. But the pads and rotors will last longer. Provide done correctly, properly bedded-in, properly broken-in for first 500 miles City driving and proper braking through out life of pads.

$350 for fronts with OTV, seems a good deal.

The average around here for OTV rotor resurfacing, is $100 per rotor. Front OEM Pads list at $105 for the 98-05 (brown) and shims at $87 if needed. Bleeder cap, pins, fitting kit, retainer spring, caliper mounting bolts may or may not be needed and are a few dollars more each. Plus labor rate in your area. We're running $160/$220/hr rate around Denver Toyota/Lexus.

Personally I got more than 90K miles on fronts brakes in my 01 combined City, HWY, Mtn. That was after having a Toyota dealership install OEM pads and OTV turn, back in 2003. Toyota increased piston size in 03-up, of front calipers. Which do have better braking/stopping power and as such wear faster. So lets says 60k miles on fronts as and average in 03-up. That averages to ~$0.005 cent/mile. Or $70 per/yr using 12K mile per/yr.

Gives you years to save-up, for DBA rotors and Pads. Overkill for daily driver perhaps. But the off-road guys love them, for those very step passes. Off-road passes so long and steep, even in transfer case in low and transmission in Low, won't keep speed low enough. DBA drilled, are the choice. I've yet to see a DBA setup needing rotors turns, even when installing second set of pads.

I worked for a dealership long time ago and the shop did have an on car brake lathe, there are only a few mechanics in the shop that are allowed to use it being it is expensive to get it calibrated and repair any broken parts. For $350 I say it's not bad most dealers out here in my area are in the $200/hr range.

Most shops today opt for Rotor replacement. They use cheap aftermarket China made rotors. Most cars today, do not have are front wheel bearing hub set-up we do. So swapping out rotors is faster & cheaper than turning. This also reduces, shop equipment expense.

In my shop. I started with the Ammco 800 deluxe OTV lathe, about 2 years ago. Which they retailed for about $14,000, 20 years ago. It was quite a learning curve. Not only rebuilding the unit, mainly the head. Which turned out to be a factory reject. But also setting it up, on a Procut Low-Boy trolley, so I could work at Jack-stand height. It also required annually (depending on average hours of use) servicing & calibrated, and set-up runout for each use/cut. But I was able to get my runout, near perfect with it. It is a sweet machine when set-up maintained and used correctly. The after cut runout rotor inspection, dial gauge would just wiggle on zero. Ammco made this same model in red, for Snap-on Tools.

I sold my Ammco, and kept my Procut. Why: Procut automatically sets runout, at the touch of a button. It's also, has less service needs and more or less self-calibrating. For one the head of the Ammco, is oiled filled using 21 O-rings to hold pressure. Which requires manually adjusting heads pressure, to get it's runout to wheel hub dialed in. This took some practice, patients and know-how. Not any tech could walkup and run one. The Procut head, is much simpler design.

I currently have My Procut 9 for sale on CL. Which is my older model, seen in video above in post #6. It get less than .0005" runout consistently, at the touch of a button. Procut rep. told me, Its the Local Toyota Dealerships shop favorite. They've six Procut even the newest Warthog. Procut also designed the hub adapters, with radial offset. This gives a non directional cut on disk surface. I'm only now getting the hang of the finer points. Like fast set-up, minimal cut depth, block sanding and soapy water finish clean up.

I now have my Procut 9 rebuilt, tested and up for sale. At $0.10 cent on the dollar from what it sold for new. Some of the current models fully loaded are about $20K.

I'm now working to dial in my Procut 9.2. which I've mounted on my Low-Boy trolley.

The Procut takes much less training, and consistently gives a good cut. Even when tech in shop aren't consistent. Number one is they're faster and easier to set-up, with auto runout feature. 2 guys designed the Procut, in their garage knockout Ammco, Hunter and all the rest.
BTW: Snap-on has bought the company (Procut).

Here's a video on my Ammco, on the Low-Boy. In it I'm using the Procut hub adapter. You'll see the radial off sit effect, on dial gauge point of contact with the OTV. I was able to correct violet bucking in a 100 series, with it. Apparently many had tried and failed to correct the bucking. What's was interesting was runout pre OTV turn, was within spec on all 4 rotors at about .0015". It was the parallelism, that was out of spec. This bucket was so bad and must have gone on for so many years, as they tried to correct thinking rotors were in spec. Indication of this were: I found the shift gate worn out between 1, 2 on 3 of plastic of console gate. The rear calipers were on upside down (LH on RH). Also due to the typical improper flushing with non Toyota brake fluid. Master issues, compounded by brakes hard pulse (pistons, being pound outward during braking). Sending fluid shock waves, back into Brake Masters ABS unit. Today its braking, is a smooth silk, Just like it was brand new off the showroom floor. So Sweet!

 

[Jack90210]

Thanks for the quality info (again), @2001LC .

 

[vipergrhd]

It is absolute best to turn rotors with new pads. It will not only give better braking. But the pads and rotors will last longer. Provide done correctly, properly bedded-in, properly broken-in for first 500 miles City driving and proper braking through out life of pads.

$350 for fronts with OTV, seems a good deal.

The average around here for OTV rotor resurfacing, is $100 per rotor. Front OEM Pads list at $105 for the 98-05 (brown) and shims at $87 if needed. Bleeder cap, pins, fitting kit, retainer spring, caliper mounting bolts may or may not be needed and are a few dollars more each. Plus labor rate in your area. We're running $160/$220/hr rate around Denver Toyota/Lexus.

Personally I got more than 90K miles on fronts brakes in my 01 combined City, HWY, Mtn. That was after having a Toyota dealership install OEM pads and OTV turn, back in 2003. Toyota increased piston size in 03-up, of front calipers. Which do have better braking/stopping power and as such wear faster. So lets says 60k miles on fronts as and average in 03-up. That averages to ~$0.005 cent/mile. Or $70 per/yr using 12K mile per/yr.

Gives you years to save-up, for DBA rotors and Pads. Overkill for daily driver perhaps. But the off-road guys love them, for those very step passes. Off-road passes so long and steep, even in transfer case in low and transmission in Low, won't keep speed low enough. DBA drilled, are the choice. I've yet to see a DBA setup needing rotors turns, even when installing second set of pads.


Most shops today opt for Rotor replacement. They use cheap aftermarket China made rotors. Most cars today, do not have are front wheel bearing hub set-up we do. So swapping out rotors is faster & cheaper than turning. This also reduces, shop equipment expense.

In my shop. I started with the Ammco 800 deluxe OTV lathe, about 2 years ago. Which they retailed for about $14,000, 20 years ago. It was quite a learning curve. Not only rebuilding the unit, mainly the head. Which turned out to be a factory reject. But also setting it up, on a Procut Low-Boy trolley, so I could work at Jack-stand height. It also required annually (depending on average hours of use) servicing & calibrated, and set-up runout for each use/cut. But I was able to get my runout, near perfect with it. It is a sweet machine when set-up maintained and used correctly. The after cut runout rotor inspection, dial gauge would just wiggle on zero. Ammco made this same model in red, for Snap-on Tools.

I sold my Ammco, and kept my Procut. Why: Procut automatically sets runout, at the touch of a button. It's also, has less service needs and more or less self-calibrating. For one the head of the Ammco, is oiled filled using 21 O-rings to hold pressure. Which requires manually adjusting heads pressure, to get it's runout to wheel hub dialed in. This took some practice, patients and know-how. Not any tech could walkup and run one. The Procut head, is much simpler design.

I currently have My Procut 9 for sale on CL. Which is my older model, seen in video above in post #6. It get less than .0005" runout consistently, at the touch of a button. Procut rep. told me, Its the Local Toyota Dealerships shop favorite. They've six Procut even the newest Warthog. Procut also designed the hub adapters, with radial offset. This gives a non directional cut on disk surface. I'm only now getting the hang of the finer points. Like fast set-up, minimal cut depth, block sanding and soapy water finish clean up.

I now have my Procut 9 rebuilt, tested and up for sale. At $0.10 cent on the dollar from what it sold for new. Some of the current models fully loaded are about $20K.

I'm now working to dial in my Procut 9.2. which I've mounted on my Low-Boy trolley.

The Procut takes much less training, and consistently gives a good cut. Even when tech in shop aren't consistent. Number one is they're faster and easier to set-up, with auto runout feature. 2 guys designed the Procut, in their garage knockout Ammco, Hunter and all the rest.
BTW: Snap-on has bought the company (Procut).

Here's a video on my Ammco, on the Low-Boy. In it I'm using the Procut hub adapter. You'll see the radial off sit effect, on dial gauge point of contact with the OTV. I was able to correct violet bucking in a 100 series, with it. Apparently many had tried and failed to correct the bucking. What's was interesting was runout pre OTV turn, was within spec on all 4 rotors at about .0015". It was the parallelism, that was out of spec. This bucket was so bad and must have gone on for so many years, as they tried to correct thinking rotors were in spec. Indication of this were: I found the shift gate worn out between 1, 2 on 3 of plastic of console gate. The rear calipers were on upside down (LH on RH). Also due to the typical improper flushing with non Toyota brake fluid. Master issues, compounded by brakes hard pulse (pistons, being pound outward during braking). Sending fluid shock waves, back into Brake Masters ABS unit. Today its braking, is a smooth silk, Just like it was brand new off the showroom floor. So Sweet!

Great info you got there, wish I could pick up one of the Procut for cheap but the last few I found is a complete rebuild and kind of scared me into dumping money into it.

 

[Pucker5]

Yeah solid response @2001LC

 

[2001LC]

Great info you got there, wish I could pick up one of the Procut for cheap but the last few I found is a complete rebuild and kind of scared me into dumping money into it.

My Porcut 9 works perfectly. It was very well maintain, being own by a CO states county maintenance shop before me. I could make you a very deal on it, to help with shipping. But search your area FB & CL, first. Also contact your Procut rep.

Brake Lathe, Pro-Cut PFM 9 OTV w/Trolley ++ - tools - by owner - sale - craigslist

Come see and make an offer. I'm easy to work with. This is an excellent working brake OTV lathe. Trolley (stand) seen in pictures, is newer model and also in excellent condition. I've an additional...

denver.craigslist.org

My above Procut 9, is listed on CL. Currently is on standard (newer) trolley for lift height work. But I also have a Lowboy trolley, still in the factory box, if you work on jack-stands.

Yeah solid response @2001LC

Thanks for saying so.