Of course it affects your driveablility if you don't do the castor correction but I didn't want to just state the obvious. Once you do the castoring it drives fine if not better.
OME trim packers VS Mr Gasket spacer
- Thread starter mooker82
- Start date
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sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
stuck in GA said:
Little back pedalling there Stuckey
State the obvious when posting. You never know who is reading this.
sleeoffroad said:Little back pedalling there Stuckey
State the obvious when posting. You never know who is reading this.
Looks like total backpedaling to me.
He didn't know or he would have stated it.
Oh hold on I forgot suspensions are his specialty. 
C-Dan and Christo:
To great people that go great together.
Thanks for taking the time to help us all.
To great people that go great together.
Thanks for taking the time to help us all.
NorCalDoug
problems solved daily...
scoot over reffug...sleeoffroad said:
mmmffff, mfffff, mmmmmfff...
glug, glug, glug...
(sorry...too busy packing my face with popcorn and downing brews to comment
)
Let Christo/Ben repsond to the issue of the cars "levelness" now that it has been stated it is Heavy springs in the front and medium springs in the rear. It SEEMS like a 1 inch spacer would be overkill for this set up, although I have NEVER run it. With Js all the way around, 1 10mm packer in the front is satisfactory for me.
Currently I have 850/863 with a MR Gasket in the front. My bias is very close to 50/50 and I do have a bit of a rake to the front. Since completing my subtank install the rake is not as pronounced with 38 gallons of fuel on board. In this condition I am heavier on the rear axle than the front. My next "experiment" is 850J without a packer and 864 in the rear. My boat has a 295 lb tongue weight. That plus all the fuel and cargo may tax the 863's.
D-
D-
- Thread starter
- #28
I never tow anything with mine and do not mind a slight rake that is equivalent to the factory rake. I have seen some OME lifts where the rake is over 1.5" and I do not want that much. I was trying to get everyones opinions since I do not get a chance to wrench very often. If I do not have the parts I need onhand when I do the lift it will likely be another 2 months before I can install them which will also mean another realignment.
MaddBaggins
Remember the KnightRider!
I've got the 850/863 combo as well, stock rear bumper, 3rd row removed and my LC sits a little like a stink bug. I have no issues with driveability and I don't mind the look. When I load up for a camping trip or offroad trip the extra weight in the rear evens it out. I got the heavy springs to accomadate future mods and to handle my camping gear.
Alvin
Alvin
I started off with 853J in the front with heavys in the rear. I had the ARB and winch on the front of the truck and it had a pretty good rake after the lift. This was despite using the J-springs. I drove it like this for about a year before adding the Mr Gasket spacers to the front. This leveled it out some and returned it back to approximately the stock stance.
I used this setup for about 6 months before adding the Slee rear bumper and now the truck sits completely level with the added weight on the rear. As some have said the ride gets low in the back now when fully loaded. To avoid this I'm about to add some packers to the rear and return the truck to the stock stance. I could just remove the spacer now, but that would feel like I was going backwards.
I used Mr Gasket because it was an inch of height in one piece and much less expensive. Time will tell how it holds up.
I used this setup for about 6 months before adding the Slee rear bumper and now the truck sits completely level with the added weight on the rear. As some have said the ride gets low in the back now when fully loaded. To avoid this I'm about to add some packers to the rear and return the truck to the stock stance. I could just remove the spacer now, but that would feel like I was going backwards.
I used Mr Gasket because it was an inch of height in one piece and much less expensive. Time will tell how it holds up.
I've got 850/863's, with 1" spacer up front. I have almost no weight in the back, no spare, no seats.
I have some 850J's sitting in the garage I will stuff in the front, I am going to take measurements but I bet the 1" spacers will still be necessary to get it nearly level. Don't want it completely level because every once in awhile I end up with 1500 pounds of s*** in the back. (firewood and gear).
I have some 850J's sitting in the garage I will stuff in the front, I am going to take measurements but I bet the 1" spacers will still be necessary to get it nearly level. Don't want it completely level because every once in awhile I end up with 1500 pounds of s*** in the back. (firewood and gear).
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That was my experience.CruisinGA said:
On a side note, the steering is intolerable now.
I expected this and won't let my wife drive the cruiser until it is fixed. I've got to find time to install these castor plates. They aren't helping me by sitting on the living room floor for a month.
I want to throw this little question in since were are on caster correction..........does anyone replace the rear bushing on the control arms with an OME offset bushing? I was thinking if you offset the bushing forward, that would push the control arm forward resulting in a slight back tilt of the axle......thus more caster? Please someone correct me if i'm wrong here.
Trapper said:That was my experience.
On a side note, the steering is intolerable now.
I expected this and won't let my wife drive the cruiser until it is fixed. I've got to find time to install these castor plates. They aren't helping me by sitting on the living room floor for a month.
Goin the same route.. talked to Christo today and got plates on the way...
Now I'm kind of glad I never got around to getting the correction bushings in...
Concrete- there is a recent thread showing this, can't remember who did it. Or at least I recently saw a page talking about it. I think something has to be machined before they fit...
ryanjl
SILVER Star
concretejungle said:
Clownmidget did just that in this thread. As Bailey said, you'd need to machine out the hole a little as the OEM bushing is slightly smaller in the rear of the control arm than the two ones are on the axle end.
Do you have to weld on the castor plates or are they bolt on?
ryanjl
SILVER Star
stuck in GA said:
Well, Slee says on his website (you know, the one selling the caster plates?) that welding is recommended.
If I was you, however, I would niether bolt nor weld them, and instead rely on the Jedi mind force to hold everything together.
No I will probably just rely on the Urban Landcruiser force.
Trapper said:That was my experience.
On a side note, the steering is intolerable now.
I expected this and won't let my wife drive the cruiser until it is fixed. I've got to find time to install these castor plates. They aren't helping me by sitting on the living room floor for a month.
Why is your steering intolerable now ? What happened to your steering ?
Kalawang
sleeoffroad said:
Sorry to disagree with you Christo, but I knew significantly more when I was in my late teens than I do today....hell, I damn near knew everything....
good info on this, since I'm making MANY decisions now on the suspension for my 80 series....stock height just ain't cuttin it.....
