OME springs do not fit

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Joined
Feb 3, 2011
Threads
33
Messages
236
Location
Medford Oregon
Hey guys,

I'm installing my 2.5" OME lift and having problems. After searching all morning on this site i have come to realize people are having problems with the axles moving when installing OME springs.

I'm installing the springs with the shorter end toward the center of the rig, or another way of saying it is, the longer (from center pin to bushing) end of the spring attaches to the shackle.

My front axle i'm ok with it moving back 1" only because I don't have a driveline for it yet and nothing will rub or be in the way.

The rear axles is another problem. I have the passenger rear spring in now and with a ratchet strap pulling the axle forward, my tire is almost hitting the tub and it will as soon as I let the rig down and the spring compresses.

PN: CS001F (front)
PN: CS001R (Rear)

I'm not going to redo my driveline and I want my axle back to where it was (shown in the drivers side picture bellow) because the tire is to far forward. Did OME just screw up and send me the wrong springs with the correct part number on them, or like everyone is saying, OME springs move the axles in?

Passs side.webp
pass side.webp
Passs side.webp
pass side.webp
Driver side.webp
 
Axle will move back when the weight is on the springs. Your shackle is almost inverted in the picture. Not sure if it will be acceptable distance from the body or not when finished. Hoping for the best for you
 
Hi all,

I agree, lower the vehicle onto the springs and see what happens.

I have always found when installing leaf springs some wrestling of the axle assembly is required to get everything to line-up.

Good luck,

Alan
 
Axle will move back when the weight is on the springs. ..

Yep, the more arch (lift) the springs have the greater the forward/back movement with travel. The tire is likely to rub the exhaust at full compression.
 
I'm interested how this plays out because I have 2.5 OME heavies being shipped to me now, they should arrive within a few weeks. I really don't need more hassle


...via IH8MUD app
 
I have every intention of going out today to finish this, but am feeling under the weather so procrastinating. I will take more pics and let you guys know what comes of this hopefully in the next few hours (hopefully)
I will lower it down, but understand the pics above of the drivers side is also lifted, same as the passenger side, but the passenger side with the OME spring has the back tire 2" farther forward.
 
I'm interested how this plays out because I have 2.5 OME heavies being shipped to me now, they should arrive within a few weeks. I really don't need more hassle


...via IH8MUD app

Heavies are going to retain their arch longer with an unweighted truck. On all springs, the axle will travel rearward under articulation, so while it may look close at steady state, the axle and tire will likely clear the wheel arch.

I also notice your armor is intruding into the area and decreasing your clearance as well. What size tires are you running?
 
The rear fenders are cut (prior owner) so the steps are actually not entering into the fender wells (if they were not cut). I'm running 33" tires.

So I got the rig on the ground, and the tire didn't move back any, as the passenger side is still 2" closer to the front tire then the Drivers side. This pic shows how I now have 3/4" in front of the tire, and the drivers side pis shows how I have 2.75" in front of the tire.

What are the disadvantages of turning the rear springs around as far as ride and how the springs are suppose to function?? I will not be leaving this the way it is pictured even if it will clear under compression, it looks stupid. So much for buying "The Best" springs.

drivers ok.webp
too close.webp
 
That seems waaay off. Can you post pictures of both shackles weighted and unweighted? Also, you might want to measure your springs (eye-to-eye and eye- to center pin) with the truck unweighted and post the results here. I would think it would be pretty obvious if the spring pins were 2" askew.

Are you 100% that you didn't flip the PS spring front to back?
 
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Drill a new hole in the spring perch and drop the center pin into that. That will move the tires back away from the wheel well and better position the axle.

I would also measure front hub to rear hub on each side rather than to body panels. Post up those numbers too.
 
I have a 2.5" OME suspension system on order as well, and I'm interested in the outcome of this issue/thread. If these are defected springs, how is ARB's Customer Service about replacing any of their defective parts? Are they quick with replacing/fixing their errors? Maybe, like with any other company, there are defective parts that get sold, but I'm more interested in their Customer Service.

Question: Should one be worried about the current OME suspension? If their Customer Service is inadequate, should one look to another set-up, possibly Iron Man or He77 Creek?
 
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I have a 2.5" OME suspension system on order as well, and I'm interested in the outcome of this issue/thread. If these are defected springs, how is ARB's Customer Service about replacing any of their defective parts? Are they quick with replacing/fixing their errors? Maybe, like with any other company, there are defective parts that get sold, but I'm more interested in their Customer Service.

Question: Should one be worried about the current OME suspension? If their Customer Service is adequate, should one look to another set-up, possibly Iron Man or He77 Creek?

I think it is too soon to jump to the conclusion that these OME springs are defective. As far as customer service goes, you should be concerned about the vendor you purchase them from, as they are the one's who should work with you regrding deficiencies or returns.
I don't think you should be worried, yet.
 
Thanks for the info. No concerns at this time. I've never had any dealings with ARB, so I was just interested if anyone had. I ordered the OME 2.5" light, it seemed to have the best track record of the bunch.
 
OK guys, So all I have is 2 days before I leave town for 5 days, but this is the update.

I put the drivers side spring on and that side is not nearly as bad as the passenger side. A friend sent me pictures of his cruiser with these springs on them with and without the tire on. His passenger side does not sit as far forward as mine does. In fact, the front of my tire is just in front of the gas cap.
My drivers side seems to sit in the same location as my friends does. I went ahead and drilled a new hole in the axle perch that bolts to the springs to move the axle back on the drivers side (since I had that spring down), and when I mounted the spring in that hole, my tire was in the same position as it was before I put the spring on.
I did measure the distance between front and rear tires, put tape on the measured locations and marked them, and I have measured the springs before I put them on. All these measurements are at home and I just got to work so I'll have to post later.

So I don't have time to work on this tonight or tomorrow night (kids baseball and soccer) and then I'm gone for 5 days, but I'll post the measurements I have, and verify the front end is straight.
 
Maybe I missed something reading this but I just a few months ago put this kit on with 33's and thought I had a problem too. The rear drive shaft wouldn't go in. Turns out the drive shaft was so used to it's position, I just needed to pulpit out from under the truck and tap the the compression together a little past what it was used to and it all fit fine.

Have you considered, or did you before you installed the two rears look at them side by side and see if they are the same? Measure the two against each other. That will let you know if they are different. Measuring up to the front end could be off a little. If you can figure out why they seam to be different side to side and fix that, the tire will not move forward at all under compression. I know you're concerned about the look but the tire will have to be forward in the wheel well a bit to allow the up and rearward compression. I have the same lift without cut out fenders and they fit fine.

I hope you get this figured out without too much more effort.
 
I went ahead and drilled a new hole in the axle perch that bolts to the springs to move the axle back on the drivers side (since I had that spring down), and when I mounted the spring in that hole, my tire was in the same position as it was before I put the spring on.
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^
This is not a good solution. Changing the position of the springs by drilling the perch should be done to both sides to reposition the axle away from the body if that's what you want. Drilling one side and not the other is compensating for another problem that needs to be resolved. Sounds like something simple that's being overlooked. Unless you got one wrong sized spring I would say it's not the OME's. Great product and I've never heard of an oddball issue llike this.

Good luck.
 
X2 on 'not' drilling a new perch location. The OME springs should be manufactured per their specific FJ40 specs, and should bolt right up. However, I understand a bad spring could make it thru the assembly line. Thus my question about OME's customer service.

Also, when mine arrive, I'll be sure to put the front springs side by side, and rear springs, to check for left & right duplicity.
 

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