ome lift now have vibration (didnt before)

[slowandsteady BJ]

Something's weird with your springs. The shackles should not be vertical like that.

They'll flatten out with some use. Just put some weight in the truck and work the springs hard with some bumps. Flexing them out really helps the break in as well.

Good lookin truck. Who cares if it doesn't shine?..... what matters is that there isnt any rust! Great colour as well.

I know you measured pinion angles and such but in the pic of the rear driveshaft (side angle) it sure looks the rear pinion is pointed too far up. This will get even worse under acceleration. Just sayin.

 

[hward1]

i was thinking the same -- but pic 5 of the side view shows it better pointing down now -- going to order u joints and will update when installed to see if that helps the vibrations -- im not liking the way its leaning or something rear pass. wheel looks like it leaning in -- here is a video of the rear wheel movement -- not sure if this is normal or not


video of wheel movement (both rear wheels do the same thing)
http://s134.photobucket.com/user/hward1/media/hward1027/MOV06406.mp4.html

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

i was thinking the same -- but pic 5 of the side view shows it better pointing down now -- going to order u joints and will update when installed to see if that helps the vibrations -- im not liking the way its leaning or something rear pass. wheel looks like it leaning in -- here is a video of the rear wheel movement -- not sure if this is normal or not


video of wheel movement (both rear wheels do the same thing)
http://s134.photobucket.com/user/hward1/media/hward1027/MOV06406.mp4.html

If that is "end play" it can be remedied by bigger Cclips in the third to take up the slop. Keep in mind semi floating axles are supposed to have a bit. If the play is lateral look at wheel bearings.

You could jack the rear end up (by the axle to keep driveline angles true to drive hight), point the truck away from your house, make sure its in 2WD and run it up to the vibration speed. (in gear, something to hold the RPM up) get out and have a look. If the rear driveshaft is bent or a UJ is worn....everything will be obvious. (wobbling shaft)

I did this with an 80 series.... shaft was wobbling. UJ's were the cause.

As for the lean.... small spacer block to lower the high side. Don't be in too much of a hurry though. Work the springs hard for a while. She just might settle on her own. Cruiser lean is all part of the character. lol.

 

[FJ60Seth]

Is drive shaft binding against the tcase?

 

[lehiguy]

I think you will enjoy your rig much, much more if you remove that third leaf from the rear spring pack. That is unless you are planning on carrying loads of rocks/bricks/cement around all the time.

 

[hward1]

i think so also but wasnt sure if it was suppose to look like a old hot rod -- how many times can i take off the ubolts -- reading some say not to reuse them --

 

[Kief]

Your rear shackles should not be near vertical. That looks a a very tall lift unless it was a heavy but then it looks unusually high or those tiny tires make it look huge. I also believe there are right and left springs for OME's. In one picture it looks as though the springs are pressing against the shackle- make sure its not due to the pack being torqued down before its lined up with the u-bolts. The U-bolts need to be tightened uniformly so it doesn't deform the plate and is seated flat against the springs. I don't recall seeing anything in a manual about replacing the u-bolts. Use your own judgement there.
If you can't get the tweak remedied then that might be related to the crooked looking wheel- is it the rim/tire, axle or housing? If the rig took a hit to that corner it might have tweaked the frame.. Measure in an X from the same point on the rear frame or mounts.

 

[mwalls54]

I have been slowly tracking down the same thing in mine. I think I am going to go with a 3* shim over the 2 I have to see if it helps any. What part of nc are you in?

 

[jeffj40]

I had a 4" ome lift on my last 40 with a similar vibration when I was finished. Only thing that cleared it up was a new custom double cardan joint shaft. I think the angle was just too severe and the shaft too short to use a standard universal joint shaft. Cleared it right up. Then I sold it

 

[hward1]

down the road greenville

I have been slowly tracking down the same thing in mine. I think I am going to go with a 3* shim over the 2 I have to see if it helps any. What part of nc are you in?

 

[hward1]

video of wheel movement

http://s134.photobucket.com/user/hward1/media/hward1027/MOV06406.mp4.html

not sure what pic looks like the springs on the shackle -- i think the lift looks high because of the tires - i installed per side higher leaf springs went on drivers side for both front and rear --

make sure its not due to the pack being torqued down before its lined up with the u-bolts ((not sure)) about that question

U-bolts need to be tightened uniformly so it doesn't deform the plate and is seated flat against the springs-- ((uniformly - meaning cris cross or lt ubolt side then rt ubolt side))

the off centered drivers rear spring - would that have moved because i turned into the drive kinda fast - i heard a click when doing so

also jacked it up with a high lift jack - springs were hanging alot

hasnt took a hit in the corner -- i do have rear frame rust in the c channel needs replacing but im thinking the hitch and bumper are holding the rear frame together and i need to put back in the tire carrier im thinking that would help with some lean from the rear maybe

 

[Kief]

I saw the wheel movement video- does it wobble when you spin it? If so the is it the wheel, the axle or housing? If you pull the wheel off the wheel-mating surface should be plumb if the other side is plumb (true to vertical)

If you have the rear off of the ground and loosen every thing up the springs shouldn't be fighting the shackles or bushings. It should all line up and if your rear is tweaked just after turning that isn't normal and the clunk usually doesn't show up until some breaking in and it is the result of the leaves sliding side to side and hitting the clamps I believe. I wonder if its clunking because something isn't torqued down right. The centering pin should be torqued to spec as well. The bent rear bracket should be pulled off and pounded flat. Then torque incrementally and evenly, one u-bolt then the other, a little bit at a time until it reaches factory spec. It needs to sit flat and square. If crooked it is putting most of the pressure on one side- not good.
As for the lean I don't recall what they spec for what side but if that is what they said great. I know there is more metal/weight on the passenger side, the transfer case, the battery and some of the drive line weight. Then every time you accelerate the torque twists the axle up toward the body on passenger side which would seem to be more than the weight of the driver when riding alone.. Pretend you are the axle assembly and imagine grabbing the end of a driveline and trying to stop it- It also is off centered and has more leverage on the passenger side vs. pulling the driver's side of the axle away from the body.. Just watch a big-rig twisting up hitting an on-ramp.. Fun stuff- keep fiddlin' and you will learn a lot and get it eventually.

 

[hward1]

got another spring plate coming and new oem rear u joints coming -- will start over on the drivers side where the springs got misaligned

 

[hward1]

got me re - researching again and found this on arb web -- i think i might swap the rear springs -- what do yall think


SPECIFICATIONS

A/B Fitment

As a general rule, the A springs have a higher free height than the B coils. This is to allow the fitter to compensate for driver weight, aftermarket accessories, vehicle weight distribution, and chassis twist. We suggest taking measurements at each corner before fitting the new suspension components. This will allow for more accurate A/B fitment.



In vehicles with front and rear A/B springs, most of these vehicles will be happiest with an A coil fitted to the front, driver corner and the opposite rear, passenger corner. In vehicles with only rear A/B springs, most will end up with the A spring on the rear, driver corner.

It must be understood that due to the A/B variation, the first spring selection may result in the vehicle to be unlevel. If this is the case, swapping spring locations is necessary before trying other trimming methods.

 

[Elbert]

if you want to know stuff about OME...talk with Kurt at Cruister Outfitters...his web site is easy to find.

I have A spring on both sides at the rear with no lean... heavy/heavy with no issues.

Kurt is the guy to see / discuss OME stuff.

 

[hward1]

A on both would be = i got this one used and its A and B for both front and rear -- i called - thats who i got my new bushings from -- very friendly people


getting ready to remove the u joints will be trying this method (except remove the clips another way) -- seems easy enough (advance auto had some of the long gear pullers on clearance here)

(not a slow video like some - very cool)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJLuzkJ4X20
update: didnt work for me this way because of the angle of the yokes

using this way to put them on:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOEdul7nscY

 

[hward1]

linking these together since its how i removed the u joints

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/787127-how-remove-u-joints.html

 

[hward1]

all u joints installed -- hammer and a c clamp/ball joint press from autozone rental tools i was able to press them in using a impact gun - also one end i was able to just tap them in with a rubber hammer like this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rOEdul7nscY

i ended up with one of the joints rear flange side yoke isnt turning as freely as the others -- i have tapped the end and centers with no luck like the other ones i was able to do -- im pretty sure i havent messed up the needle bearings inside - im thinking now this one was tight before -- was thinking it could be the flange side yoke but i cant tell -- the joint moves but with more effort because all of the other joints will fall over on there on -- so not sure - ive read maybe bearings sitting wrong or bent yoke distorting the holes or something -- anyway the joint maybe turned a little or something

 

[Botag]

Need some help

So It seems add if I'm suffering from the same problem… I installed a 3" Lift Kit and like everyone else the vibration started…. I read up on the need for shims… Which my lift kit DID come with… However, I think the shop installed the shims incorrectly. They installed the fat end facing in on both axels… Shouldn't it be the other way around..?? Both front and rear differential are pointing up creating almost a straight line from each differential through each shaft…. To my minds eye that did nothing but INCREASE the angle difference at each joint…. The point is to get the difference to DECREASE… correct..?? I'm confused…..

 

[driveshafterw]

vibration

i agree with the shims i buiild alot of driveshafts i mean 6 or 7 a day and for 20 yrs most likly pinion angel 602 997 0906