hward1
87 fj60 / 95 fjz80
How do you get these u joints out of a fj60 driveshaft -- any ideas - 
How remove u joints
- Thread starter hward1
- Start date
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Bench press and sockets, ujoint removal tool, or local shop. If you want to do it with a bench press just search, it's been done about a billion times. Make sure you take the clips off.
Still chasing vibes huh?
U joints can be a b!tch but once you've done a few they get easier. Get a manual, a good one. Like Toyota FSM. There are links on mud so you can download one.
I saw in your other thread you were just replacing one. I would do both. If one is bad the other will be right behind it.
Another pro tip is: If its not going together easily something is wrong and dont force it. The UJ, once together must move freely, If its tight and notchy it will vibrate in the truck and will fail prematurely. Also make sure the shaft is all lined up right with U joints indexed as per the factory set up. (all in line)
At the very least youll need a good vise, some sockets, pliers and a manual.
It appears to me that you are a bit "green" with wrenching..... Dont worry though. Cruisers are a great truck to learn to wrench on and Mud is a great resource from which to gain knowledge and tips.
U joints can be a b!tch but once you've done a few they get easier. Get a manual, a good one. Like Toyota FSM. There are links on mud so you can download one.
I saw in your other thread you were just replacing one. I would do both. If one is bad the other will be right behind it.
Another pro tip is: If its not going together easily something is wrong and dont force it. The UJ, once together must move freely, If its tight and notchy it will vibrate in the truck and will fail prematurely. Also make sure the shaft is all lined up right with U joints indexed as per the factory set up. (all in line)
At the very least youll need a good vise, some sockets, pliers and a manual.
It appears to me that you are a bit "green" with wrenching..... Dont worry though. Cruisers are a great truck to learn to wrench on and Mud is a great resource from which to gain knowledge and tips.
This guy does a good job for having limited tools and no press. Only difference youll have is that your UJ Clips are on the inside of the cup.... not the outside like in the video.
Part one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tJWEVGqP6s
Part two
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Udm39WHuiHw
Part one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tJWEVGqP6s
Part two
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Udm39WHuiHw
I have R & R'd a few u-joints in my time and it can be done at home with a hammer and sockets. Having said that, the $$ I gave the local driveshaft guy to replace mine (I provided the OEM joints) is the best money I've spent in along time (don't remember what I paid, but I'm cheap, so I know it couldn't have been that much). I do almost all my own work on my truck, but sometimes it's nice to just drop something off and pick it up an hour later done, specially something like this that has the potential to be a nightmare.
Ya, pull the clips, you may have to clean some gunk out to find them, then you can hammer them out, using an old socket to punch them out with a big hammer, and a bigger socket or something on the bottom side so there is a pocket to push it into instead of hammering it against something.
When you put the new ones in, be very careful in how you align them so the needle bearings stay put, and if you find it is stiff you work your way around the outside of the cap with a hammer until it is smooth, sometimes the caps are at just a bit of an angle and will be quite stiff.
Of course if you have a press then it makes things easier.
Also, I find that when you put the new caps on, it's easiest if you put one in, then keep the joint inside the cap as you tap it, this will keep the needle bearings from moving or getting knocked out as you beat on it, you can even go past it's location a bit, this allows you to start on the opposite side and push it back, but also keeps the joint inside both caps at the same time to prevent the needle bearings from falling out from either side. Knocking the needle bearings loose or having them fall out when your half into it can be a real pain, especially when one falls into a bucket of old dirty bolts or parts, or goes flying under stuff in the dirt.
When you put the new ones in, be very careful in how you align them so the needle bearings stay put, and if you find it is stiff you work your way around the outside of the cap with a hammer until it is smooth, sometimes the caps are at just a bit of an angle and will be quite stiff.
Of course if you have a press then it makes things easier.
Also, I find that when you put the new caps on, it's easiest if you put one in, then keep the joint inside the cap as you tap it, this will keep the needle bearings from moving or getting knocked out as you beat on it, you can even go past it's location a bit, this allows you to start on the opposite side and push it back, but also keeps the joint inside both caps at the same time to prevent the needle bearings from falling out from either side. Knocking the needle bearings loose or having them fall out when your half into it can be a real pain, especially when one falls into a bucket of old dirty bolts or parts, or goes flying under stuff in the dirt.
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take both driveshafts along with all the new universals to a place that has a press...and they can install all of them in 30min or less. Yes you can use a hammer and some old sockets. and even a large vise to help install and remove. Many universtals have a "key" (i've forgotten the proper word)..but anyway some have a little key that has to be removed before its removed and its the last part to go in when installing.
hward1
87 fj60 / 95 fjz80
- Thread starter
- #8
got them off - not easy -- tried a u joint clamp and a press with no luck because of the angle of the yokes -- when i placed a larger socket on the end of the yoke that the caps would press out threw it would angle the socket and not let the press stay even and would slide off -- so i just did the hammer way and sockets on the pavement layed down on a piece of cardboard paper so i wouldnt skin up the driveshaft -- after i beat and pushed two of the caps out i had to cut off part of the other caps so it would slide out of the yoke -
An important part of the installation is getting the UJ grease nipple to face the correct way so you can grease it later. If installed backwards, you can not get a grease gun on the zerk without dropping thew driveshaft.
Just note the way the old zerks faced and do the same.
Doug
Just note the way the old zerks faced and do the same.
Doug
cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
big vise + big hammer
ujoints
big hammer socket and vice the caps are gona want to come out crooked i use a nut inside cap to knock out all the way 20yrs drtiveline tech THERE A BITCH!!!
big hammer socket and vice the caps are gona want to come out crooked i use a nut inside cap to knock out all the way 20yrs drtiveline tech THERE A BITCH!!!
you dont need no stinking press
Your right. I meant to say "bench vise".
How do you get these u joints out of a fj60 driveshaft -- any ideas -
My ASE certified car mechanic neighbor stopped me from beating on my U joint and drive shaft one afternoon, and showed me that pressed in caps will eventually pop right out after heating with a propane torch.
I have never beat on a drive shaft again.
hward1
87 fj60 / 95 fjz80
- Thread starter
- #17
i need to remove a new u joint or part of it - one side of the u joint is stiff and all of the other ones turn very easy - not sure if the cap went in crooked but doesnt look like it did - thought i was being careful not to get the needles messed up - im thinking the flange yoke ears are bent in some because i had to push the caps in more to get the clamps back in
(i noticed this after completing the other side)
-- i wonder if i heat the ears it would pop out the new caps but then i would think it would mess up the new rubber seals some how --
(i noticed this after completing the other side)
-- i wonder if i heat the ears it would pop out the new caps but then i would think it would mess up the new rubber seals some how --
the problem i have withe the torch thing is it bends the drivelione ive had to fix more drivesjhafts because a mecanic used heat drive shafts are a soecaltie feild mecanics come to us and until resently there wasent even a school you culd go to to learn the trade tell the ase mecanic(if youve noticed there thousands of mecanics but very few d line techs im in phoenix and thers only about 15 total at all the shops here that have more than ten yrs exp iv got 20)
Did you use Google translator?
LMAO.... Thought the same thing. He does raise a good point or two (I think).
However, I think a bit of heat is fine but keep it below 500 degrees. If it starts to glow orange stop. A little thermal imbalance is all you want between the yoke and cup to help free things up during disassembly.
I wouldn't heat anything up for installation though. If the yoke is hot or even warm it is more likely to compress as the cups are pressed in. Which isn't good. Small taps with a hammer can coax the yoke back up the cup while in a press or vice.
They key with U joints is to be as gentle as possible using the correct techniques rather than the brute force approach.
