ome lift now have vibration (didnt before)

[hward1]

These guys are in South Carolina, but they do a great job. My buddy used them for a Bronco driveshaft.

http://www.carolinadriveline.com/

added pics on page 4
im from very close to there but now live across the state 6.5 hrs

 

[hward1]

actually now im really thinking i didnt need shims at all --- i thought added 2 degrees would bring it back to 90 but it didnt it took it way over to negative and when the pinion changes under load or driving it will bring it back up which when i angle the tool pictured it puts the angle even more negative -- confused because looks like the shims with the large part in the rear did the opposite or did that spacer stop the angle and the spring bent up in the front or something --- Help me Help me



edit -- crap i havent put the angle finder on the same direction for the pics ((meaning the shims should be ok - or probably should have used a 1 degree shim)

without shims

with shims

 

[driveshafterw]

pinion angle

dude a stock diff is set at NEGITIVE 1 TO 3 DEGREES you have a 4x4 take NEGITUIVE 1 TO 3 DEGREES from driveline (parilell from shaft) and youll gegt your angle right as far as vibration issues take shaft to qualified tech or send to me

 

[OGBeno]

dude a stock diff is set at NEGITIVE 1 TO 3 DEGREES you have a 4x4 take NEGITUIVE 1 TO 3 DEGREES from driveline (parilell from shaft) and youll gegt your angle right as far as vibration issues take shaft to qualified tech or send to me

If there is any way you can utilize spell check before you post, the rest of the reading public can probably benefit more from your one hundred years of drive shaft experience.

 

[driveshafterw]

spelling

sorry i dont know how to use spell check im new to the odffice gig usede to being the grunt in the baqck managment sucks sumtimesw i appoligise

 

[Elbert]

after all this bouncing around with different paths to a solution....did you ever change all the universal joints?
I believe that was suggested a long time ago?

Also did you let the suspension cycle / settle before you tightened everything down when you swapped the springs and other parts?

Apparently others are having issues....but it would appear that many with the same lift have had no issue. Assume the former owner of the suspension parts had no issues? I think the OP stated he bought the parts used..as I recall.

 

[OGBeno]

He bought a ujoint yesterday. I think he might need a flange as well.

 

[cruiserbrandon]

The pics are hard to understand which direction the shims are, if the thicker part is facing towards the rear you need thicker shims, if they are thicker facing forward turn them around and see what happens.

From the pics your pinion angle is too high. Or put shorter shackles on and drive it, any way you can get the pinion down.

 

[cruiserbrandon]

The pics are hard to understand which direction the shims are, if the thicker part is facing towards the rear you need thicker shims, if they are thicker facing forward turn them around and see what happens.

From the pics your pinion angle is too high. Or put shorter shackles on and drive it, any way you can get the pinion down.

actually even easier loosen the u bolts and grab a piece of metal, shove it in the back of both perches between the perch and the shim (basically make a temporary thicker shim) then loosely tighten the ubolts back down and take it for a short drive, you should know right away. Something like an 11 gauge would effectively make a 6 degree shim (educated guess).

Yes its perfectly safe for a short period of time on some backroads.

 

[hward1]

since we deal with pages on top of pages i think i put i installed new toyota u joints and one is still stiff in one direction - on maybe page 3 - i ordered another one incase i mess this one up getting it out - i do think i need another rear flange or im going to try and bend it out some to give the joint more space --- oh i posted info for pics with most pics - page 4 shows the difference better

 

[hward1]

bump to next page

no shims in rear with ome lift installed
[URL="http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/hward1/hward1022/DSC06348.jpg"]
2nd pic after 2 degree shims fat end towards rear ome lift installed
[/URL][URL="http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/hward1/hward1025/DSC06365.jpg"][/URL]


would that ome lift spacer cause a problem with it against the axle or would it just role with the angle and stay pressed or is the spring bending up with the angle - but with the shims it did change the angles so i guess not hurting anything
[URL="http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/hward1/hward1027/DSC06402.jpg"][/URL]

 

[hward1]

I just read your thread. You found the source of the vibes. You want the rear a degree or two lower than the front to compensate for torque induced rise. Right now you are a few degrees too high without the added rise from driveline torque. The shims will help a lot. The higher you lift the vehicle the harder it is to get the drivelines to work smoothly. It may never be quite as smooth as it was before, but certainly tolerable. Every few years I would take my driveline in to be balanced (it had a rough life) that always seemed to help as it always required something welded to it, or a slight straightening. It was always smoother after that.

(i still agree with this plan) ill post after i fix the stiff u joint and see what that does because the second pic is showing a 2.5 downward angle -- the vib is at around 25-30

 

[BC40]

no shims in rear with ome lift installed
[URL="http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/hward1/hward1022/DSC06348.jpg"]
after 2 degree shims fat end towards rear ome lift installed
[/URL][URL="http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/hward1/hward1025/DSC06365.jpg"][/URL]

now thinking i didnt need them since you have upward movement with load -- im spring under if that makes a difference or maybe the fat part of the shim should go toward front

would that ome lift spacer cause a problem with it against the axle or would it just role with the angle and stay pressed or is the spring bending up with the angle - but with the shims it did change the angles so i guess not hurting anything
[URL="http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q82/hward1/hward1027/DSC06402.jpg"][/URL]

So to get this straight, in the first two pics, you took the first photo from the right side and the second pic from the left side, correct? If so, with the 2* shim the angle is unchanged/exactly the same (i.e. tilted up 2.5*). The spring pin interferance against the axle may be keeping the spring pad from seating. When the u-bolts were loose, did the axle sit properly on the springs or not?

 

[hward1]

CRAPPP --- so i went back and removed the drive shaft seeing what you said -- i had that thought for a second -- the angle is the same with the shims in place ---- the axle did rotate over with the shim before i tightened them up or maybe it didnt i guess just knew i had to lean on the wheel to hold it down from rotating back do i could hold the ubolts to tighten them up -- i dont understand why didnt it change -- i guess the spring did bend up or something and why would the OME spacer be so tall for the space if that is what is causing this problem -- HELP

with shims (angle tool same placement as the first time i measured the angle)

seated against pad (front of spring must have moved up instead of the axle)

 

[dbleon]

Imprecise tool... period.

 

[hward1]

the angle tool is against the surface giving the same angle as before -- i didnt measure the correct way but thought after seeing this done it would work out -- so maybe not but not sure yet and i hope i havent bent my springs any (i bet after all of this trouble its probably going to just to be that tight ujoint after getting the driveshaft back off that one direction is really tight still) but still want to angle that axle down some



so is the ome spacer effecting anything ??? (OME CBS01 goes over pin head)



What are the CBS01 (Center Bolt Spacers) for in your 60 Series Suspension Kits?

Late model FJ60's and all FJ62's came from the factory with a rubber/steel spring isolator assembly that cupped the rear leaf spring between the spring pack and the axle housing. This was done to remove slight road vibrations with the stock springs. This setup is not used when installing an Old Man Emu suspension setup and thus is removed all together. If equipped, the spring center pin holes on the axle's spring perch will have an inside dimension of approximately 1", however the new springs (and old springs too) have a pin outside diameter of approximately 1/2". This gap was taken up by the old spring isolator. By using the center bolt spacers (1/2" tall piece of tube with a 1/2" ID and a 1" OD), that gap is eliminated and you can accurately position your axle.




1st pic is now with shims and second pic is old pic without shims

upclose shots
without shims

now with shims

 

[lehiguy]

You might have an problem with the spring pin hitting the axle housing before everything is torqued down. It looks pretty tight.

 

[hward1]

its against it i just double checked to see if a piece of paper would slide under it no it sitting on it -


should i grind down the pin heads some or maybe just the spacer???


a

 

[jeffj40]

Your driveline angle looks too steep with those shackles. If your shaft is near 15 degrees you need a DC driveshaft. Point your pinion at the transfer case, box up your shaft and send it to TomWoods. He'll cut in a DC joint, balance it and send it back to you for like 250 bucks.

Good reading on driveline geometry on his site. Like I said earlier I had the same problem and played around with shims and joints until I figured it out.

Good luck.

 

[hward1]

i wonder if i put the spacer upside down on the spring