Old Truck for Old Guy (1 Viewer)

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Well, got with Dave (and Sean) yesterday and found out a lot more about the truck, and what it is supposed to look like. Two bigguns, steering and front drive shaft. The shaft is the easier one, remove and take to Driveline in Monroe and say "fix it please". The steering is another story. I spent some time looking today at various setups, and looks like they did a TPI power steering style "upgrade". I say that because it kind of looks like this FJ40 TPI POWER STEERING KIT - https://tpi4x4.com/product/fj40-tpi-power-steering-kit/ but the tubes are bent like bananas.
I measured both tubes and found the stock length on line, and they are both stock, so thats good news. Lifted one wheel up this afternoon and yup, cachunk chanchunk, side to side its loose. The curve on both tubes is easy to see here:

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The relay rod to the pitman arm (center arm) has a End Link type instead of a tie rod link. Will need to check that out to see if it is worn or loose to. Found rebuilt kits at Cruiserparts just in case. This will be a first one for me. Then looking to move the steering dampener away from pitman would the be next "thing". Need to noodle on these, before buying stuff, but at least the bars need to be straight!

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Does anyone now JTOutfitters (aka JoeTLC on Ebay) in Winston-Salem? found a bunch of stuff there on Ebay too.
 
But first, fuel gauge! I was wondering if it even worked as there is no wire anywhere near sending unit. I have been using multi meter to measure resistance and checking the CSM scale. So, long wire and alligator clips and terminal C on the dash is what I needed to connect to to see fuel level. Then installed a more permanent solution.
I still have no lights on the left side of the dash, changed bulbs and check grounds. But, the left turn indicator does light up!
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Front brakes are good now, replaced 3 hoses and 2 brake lines. Tricky making the double flares, but finally got the groove and powered on. Pads are die for change soon, not sure what they are, will be another research..
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Steering! Checked the end links no they are shot, rattle, worse is passenger side. This really shows how bent they are. The end link below is on the pitman and relay, and the slotted part had room to get tightened and no longer moves. But need to order the tubes...and tierod ends...

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Wet day...but got things done.
Thanks to Wonder Dave, got the front drive shaft out, wrapped in plastic no ready for delivery to Driveline in Monroe.

Figured put why the left side of the dash wasn’t lighting up and found a couple of LEDs that fit, bam we got light. Then wire brushed all of the rear, by hand then by drill, cleaned up well and coated with rust restore. Will get paint tomorrow and seal the puppy up.

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Speedo...As Dave suggested, the gear is long gone, pretty torn. Needing to replace it and get new seals. This one has 15 teeth, counted them a few times and even took my shoes off to count. 15. Can't find those anywhere, so 17 is the next lowest number. Not sure if the gear comes with all seals, will find out when one of the cruiser shops opens on Monday.

This is all I removed from it today:

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Wet day...but got things done.
Thanks to Wonder Dave, got the front drive shaft out, wrapped in plastic no ready for delivery to Driveline in Monroe.

Figured put why the left side of the dash wasn’t lighting up and found a couple of LEDs that fit, bam we got light. Then wire brushed all of the rear, by hand then by drill, cleaned up well and coated with rust restore. Will get paint tomorrow and seal the puppy up.

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You getting driveshaft rebuilt? How much they charging? I need both front and rear rebuilt
 
You getting driveshaft rebuilt? How much they charging? I need both front and rear rebuilt
Dont know yet, dropped it off this morning, should know in a couple days. But it is in pretty bad shape.
 
Steering and wheels....got both rods (tubes) ordered from Cruiserparts, with the ends too. Still will need to find one left tie rod end. Also got new rear brake hoses coming today, and front pads. Longer drive to Driveline and brakes are very good, can lock them up.

Wheels...When I was looking at the steering and front brakes, noticed they had wheel spacers up front. So I rather have no spacers and correct offset, simple steel wheels. Bart Wheels 7015806 Bart Wheels D Trucker Black Wheels | Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLM-7015806?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAiAudD_BRBXEiwAudakX3gb0SiTZFOaRfkGcOfGa2W-5mhtwzIyobBBhea1rDEkzb-NN02tphoCUdYQAvD_BwE these seem to fit fine, they are 15" and now I got 16, so would need new tires which I rather not have to buy, but....

Looking for recommendations....
 

several options for 100/wheel or under at 16x8, 6x5.5, 4" backspacing
 
I have some 15" hub cap wheels I've had tucked away a while.... They need media blast and paint. PM me if you are interested
 
You getting driveshaft rebuilt? How much they charging? I need both front and rear rebuilt
Well, $416 with tax. New driveshaft, old one was too far gone. Sealed U-joints. I was expecting it be less, or could just bought a front one from SOR for a little less.
 
Well, $416 with tax. New driveshaft, old one was too far gone. Sealed U-joints. I was expecting it be less, or could just bought a front one from SOR for a little less.
Ouch! I guess that may be a reasonable price for a full shaft but it seems a bit pricey. They did some u joint work for me a while back (80 front shaft..I supplied the u joints) and it was so damn cheap that I felt bad for the guy doing all the work for such a low price. I believe it cost me $20 - $30. I tipped them $20 extra and they sent me home with an assortment of stickers, coozies, etc. I'm sorry you did not have the same experience.

Bad thing is that I'm about to take a double cardan shaft over to them to cut down / re-tube. I guess they'll get big money from me too then...
 
Ouch! I guess that may be a reasonable price for a full shaft but it seems a bit pricey. They did some u joint work for me a while back (80 front shaft..I supplied the u joints) and it was so damn cheap that I felt bad for the guy doing all the work for such a low price. I believe it cost me $20 - $30. I tipped them $20 extra and they sent me home with an assortment of stickers, coozies, etc. I'm sorry you did not have the same experience.

Bad thing is that I'm about to take a double cardan shaft over to them to cut down / re-tube. I guess they'll get big money from me too then...
Not sure it is all out of line....my old shaft was sitting there, busted open, so this is a brand new one, balanced, and the flanges had to be sourced and added too. I brought the truck there as they wanted to double check the flanges would fit. A new one is probably about the same, I think, if you can even find it. A refurbished one is about $350, but this was built and checked to ensure it fit this truck.

What I would have done differently is maybe give them a budget, say $200 or whatever, and have them call me if it is not doable. But regardless, very likely would have gone ahead in the end and to what they did, needed a new shaft. Now good for another 40 years!
 
Jungle mechanics....These might have been real working vehicles, not suburban grocery getters like it is now. I have seen broken frames fixed overnight by jungle mechanics, jeep is ready the next day after we broke it racing down a mountain with 6 guys on full gear.
 
Ouch! I guess that may be a reasonable price for a full shaft but it seems a bit pricey. They did some u joint work for me a while back (80 front shaft..I supplied the u joints) and it was so damn cheap that I felt bad for the guy doing all the work for such a low price. I believe it cost me $20 - $30. I tipped them $20 extra and they sent me home with an assortment of stickers, coozies, etc. I'm sorry you did not have the same experience.

Bad thing is that I'm about to take a double cardan shaft over to them to cut down / re-tube. I guess they'll get big money from me too then...
Factory U Joints still available or you use a high quality aftermarket?
 
Well, $416 with tax. New driveshaft, old one was too far gone. Sealed U-joints. I was expecting it be less, or could just bought a front one from SOR for a little less.
😬
 
Factory U Joints still available or you use a high quality aftermarket?
Not sure what they used, he claimed they are the best. He did say the name, cant remember
 

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