Old Truck for Old Guy (1 Viewer)

[izzyandsue]

So, onto brakes...
Brake hoses are a little worn, not much, but just a tad. A little worry, but hey, it stops. Ordered orginal hoses (one per side plus the one up the middle) from Partsouq as I needed a few things there I couldn't find in country, like the spring for the side vents. Then I noticed the hard line is smacked, and tried to find one of those was hard, finally found some at SOR. They probably hit the line to prevent the hose from "sploding"? I know its a field repair if you loose a hose, crimp the line.

Is it easier to make your own lines? I haven't done it in 25 years, but as I recall it was not hard. The only thing I worry is if the fittings that I can find for the lines will not match Toyota hoses. Anyone knows that part?

 

[NCFJ]

The hard lines are easy Izzy, tube nuts are 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare.

 

[izzyandsue]

The hard lines are easy Izzy, tube nuts are 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare.

Thats what I thought, thanks Stan! I did tubing making the day when building high purity systems at Xerox Labs, pipe fitters taught me how to use the flaring tools. Man, that was 1990 or so, feels like yesterday....

 

[NCFJ]

I have a very nice flare tool you are welcome to use here if you like. They are about $180.00 if you want ,to have one of your very own.

 

[izzyandsue]

Thanks bud, I got a homeowner special. Only has to work twice!

 

[izzyandsue]

just installed a new light switch, and that fixed all the light issues. Simple things......

 

[roadstr6]

I have had success with opening up smashed hard lines by using vice grips. Set the jaws to press just a little in the opposite direction of the smash. Clamp it. Set it a little tighter, clamp again. Eventually you’ll get it to flow again, but in the long run you’d be better off with a new hard line. Tow truck hooks and chains destroy more hard lines than anything.

 

[izzyandsue]

I have had success with opening up smashed hard lines by using vice grips. Set the jaws to press just a little in the opposite direction of the smash. Clamp it. Set it a little tighter, clamp again. Eventually you’ll get it to flow again, but in the long run you’d be better off with a new hard line. Tow truck hooks and chains destroy more hard lines than anything.

That makes a lot of sense, the lines are crushed in symmetry, where the transport idiot use straps!

 

[izzyandsue]

Okay, what the heck is this yankie crap? This is the steering column, its held together with a pipe clamp. Not sure what it is supposed to look like....I would at least expect a collar lock there, right?

 

[izzyandsue]

Fixed it! Seriously, need a muffler clamp or collar clamp. Ordered both for now until I figure it out.

 

[izzyandsue]

Lights! Used the LED string, and added switch to an always hot wire I found dangling in dash when I surveyed the dash.

 

[Roxx]

You wanted a rare truck. You have a rare truck.

Fixed it! Seriously, need a muffler clamp or collar clamp. Ordered both for now until I figure it out.
View attachment 2532029

 

[izzyandsue]

You wanted a rare truck. You have a rare truck.

I think "bespoke" is a better term

 

[izzyandsue]

Today was a good day, no workee so got some time to tinker, cleaned the switches and painted, installed the speedo cable, took dash apart to see why only lights up on one side, added turning stop bolt, battery tie downs, secured cabin lights, took wiper motor part to reset back to FSM and clean, solder loose contacts.

Unfortunately, the wipers do move a lot faster but still do not run on high. I did check that on high the right wires are sending power to the motor. So may need a new motor....

 

[izzyandsue]

Replaced tail lights, took a while as the electrical connections are random, lots of twisted wires covered in tape. But, meter to the rescue. Old ones are plastic housings with lots of rtv and extra wires. Got it back to FSM standard and they work. But along the way, the Hazard stopped working....

Also got to add the hoses for the defroster, with the help of Lowe’s plumbing Dept

 

[izzyandsue]

Continuing with the baseline process yesterday and some time today, and driving around as I do this. This is the Walgreens by the Harris Teeter, Dave, my wife came out on an adventure drive, it was awesome!.
Anyway, transmission and transfer case oil done, I took out half about what I put in, and it was nasty. Rear differential was done too, but front... The drain plug on the front is smashed into the differential, someone took this truck off road. Will need help getting that out, not sure yet what I will to. But at least I added about 1/4 quart. Will drive it and can extract the fluid later after it gets mixed in with new fluid.

While doing the rear diff, I saw this, shock missing bolt. Not sure of the bolt size, but the nut on the other side will not fit, then I realize this bolt needs retreading. But the largest die I have is 12 x 1.5. I may need a bigger one or find a machine shop who can do this.

Back in the engine bay, looking for the wire that powers the windshield washer motor, I saw this bad boy. I know I need to fix it, but what is?

And leaking a little from this one, is this the oil pump? Its right up front of the engine.

Steering, both the relay bar and drag link are bent like bananas, and the steering shakes a bit at speed. Transmission feels smooth and have been up to 50mph so far. But will need to replace those bars and end links soon.

Finally a couple of questions if anyone here knows....
1. Installed a speedo cable (old one was cut off), tested it by spinning it with a drill and it registered on the speedometer. But driving around I get nothing. Likely the internal gear is missing or broken? Any other suggestions?
2. Gas gage, I can test the sending unit and from the FSM can tell how much gas I got (3/4 tank or so). Can I run a wire directly to the back of the fuel in cluster gage from the sending unit? and ground the other prong on the cluster gage?

 

[roadstr6]

Continuing with the baseline process yesterday and some time today, and driving around as I do this. This is the Walgreens by the Harris Teeter, Dave, my wife came out on an adventure drive, it was awesome!.
Anyway, transmission and transfer case oil done, I took out half about what I put in, and it was nasty. Rear differential was done too, but front... The drain plug on the front is smashed into the differential, someone took this truck off road. Will need help getting that out, not sure yet what I will to. But at least I added about 1/4 quart. Will drive it and can extract the fluid later after it gets mixed in with new fluid.

View attachment 2537584

While doing the rear diff, I saw this, shock missing bolt. Not sure of the bolt size, but the nut on the other side will not fit, then I realize this bolt needs retreading. But the largest die I have is 12 x 1.5. I may need a bigger one or find a machine shop who can do this.

View attachment 2537583

Back in the engine bay, looking for the wire that powers the windshield washer motor, I saw this bad boy. I know I need to fix it, but what is?

View attachment 2537585

And leaking a little from this one, is this the oil pump? Its right up front of the engine.

View attachment 2537588

Steering, both the relay bar and drag link are bent like bananas, and the steering shakes a bit at speed. Transmission feels smooth and have been up to 50mph so far. But will need to replace those bars and end links soon.

Finally a couple of questions if anyone here knows....
1. Installed a speedo cable (old one was cut off), tested it by spinning it with a drill and it registered on the speedometer. But driving around I get nothing. Likely the internal gear is missing or broken? Any other suggestions?
2. Gas gage, I can test the sending unit and from the FSM can tell how much gas I got (3/4 tank or so). Can I run a wire directly to the back of the fuel in cluster gage from the sending unit? and ground the other prong on the cluster gage?

View attachment 2537586

It's good to see the truck out and about. Here's short answers to your questions. Bring that bad boy by the house when you have a minute and we can go over it together.

-Diff plug is a bitch. Grind the smashed protection ring away enough that you can hammer on a 6pt. socket. Remove and replace all plugs with recessed allen head plugs. You may have to weld a nut on that old plug to get it out. Good thing is that front diff doesn't spin unless hubs are locked. Fluid usually stays nice in front. You can probably wait on this.
-Spring plate stud is stripped. A new plate is not expensive and not hard to replace. Somebody on here will have a good used one, or just buy new. Cheapo fix is to break off stud and drill hole. Place new bolt in hole from behind and tack weld. Good as new.
-The bad wiring at the plug goes to your voltage regulator. You'll want to fix that.
-Your front leak is at the timing cover. The cover itself looks to have been re-sealed recently. The leak is most likely at the plate behind the cover. This is common and it's a PITA to fix. Learn to live with it. To remove the plate to replace the gasket, cam must be removed. A lot of stuff has to come off to pull the cam. Don't bother.
-Your speedo gear is probably stripped. It's nylon and easy to replace. Georg at Cruiser Brothers can get you one.
- Wire from gauge to sending unit. Sending unit is supposed to ground to the metal tank. I usually remove one of the ring screws and run a ground wire to the frame for extra grounding.

 

[pkniland]

It's good to see the truck out and about. Here's short answers to your questions. Bring that bad boy by the house when you have a minute and we can go over it together.

-Diff plug is a bitch. Grind the smashed protection ring away enough that you can hammer on a 6pt. socket. Remove and replace all plugs with recessed allen head plugs. You may have to weld a nut on that old plug to get it out. Good thing is that front diff doesn't spin unless hubs are locked. Fluid usually stays nice in front. You can probably wait on this.
-Spring plate stud is stripped. A new plate is not expensive and not hard to replace. Somebody on here will have a good used one, or just buy new. Cheapo fix is to break off stud and drill hole. Place new bolt in hole from behind and tack weld. Good as new.
-The bad wiring at the plug goes to your voltage regulator. You'll want to fix that.
-Your front leak is at the timing cover. The cover itself looks to have been re-sealed recently. The leak is most likely at the plate behind the cover. This is common and it's a PITA to fix. Learn to live with it. To remove the plate to replace the gasket, cam must be removed. A lot of stuff has to come off to pull the cam. Don't bother.
-Your speedo gear is probably stripped. It's nylon and easy to replace. Georg at Cruiser Brothers can get you one.
- Wire from gauge to sending unit. Sending unit is supposed to ground to the metal tank. I usually remove one of the ring screws and run a ground wire to the frame for extra grounding.

I can be of no assistance but I’d like to be there and drink beer and be happy I’m not looking over one of my projects !

 

[rlynch356]

Great Project Izzy - looks awesome I'll keep an eye out for a S3 for you (I know where a few are..)
can't wait to see out.
Funny my upcoming project will be a Toyota as well

 

[izzyandsue]

Great Project Izzy - looks awesome I'll keep an eye out for a S3 for you (I know where a few are..)
can't wait to see out.
Funny my upcoming project will be a Toyota as well

Thanks Rob! Has been a long journey, but a s***load of fun