need clutch parts or filter thingy? Colin and I are working in the garage today.. he's burning metal.. I am installing driveshafts etc..
Ol' Blue, my 68' fj40 project
- Thread starter 2fpower
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2fpower
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Just got back in town and was able to play yesterday in the shop. My Buddy Rob and Kyle pitched in because Kyle's flight got cancelled (thank you american Airlines) on sunday night.
Here is progress:
The clutch slave was fixed and appears to be correct now. Rob got that one done! Thanks!
Steering wheel crack filler is sanded down and fixed is ready for paint.
Brake master adapter is made and powdercoated this AM.
Wheels are on.
Seat mount is completed.
Alighnment is close, and all steering is locked down now.
radiator in, need to run heater hose
driveshafts in
Got her turning over and sputtering, so we have fire. I do not see gas coming up from new pump, so I need to look at that. Do you have to prime the old pumps?
Short list is:
install brake master and hook up, bleed out
heater hose/coolant
Front seats cover and install (at least drivers side)
Rollbar install and mount rear seat belts for kids
get the old gauges tucked into dash... I could not get the cluster to fit the other day. Did they change from 68 to 71? They have the same wiring????
Hook up temp. exhaust. Will have Duane do a new one later.
install intake cleaner.
WOW, that is a lot of stuff for 2 days, when I have to work, kids baseball games...... Oh well, without goals nothing gets done.....
Here is progress:
The clutch slave was fixed and appears to be correct now. Rob got that one done! Thanks!
Steering wheel crack filler is sanded down and fixed is ready for paint.
Brake master adapter is made and powdercoated this AM.
Wheels are on.
Seat mount is completed.
Alighnment is close, and all steering is locked down now.
radiator in, need to run heater hose
driveshafts in
Got her turning over and sputtering, so we have fire. I do not see gas coming up from new pump, so I need to look at that. Do you have to prime the old pumps?
Short list is:
install brake master and hook up, bleed out
heater hose/coolant
Front seats cover and install (at least drivers side)
Rollbar install and mount rear seat belts for kids
get the old gauges tucked into dash... I could not get the cluster to fit the other day. Did they change from 68 to 71? They have the same wiring????
Hook up temp. exhaust. Will have Duane do a new one later.
install intake cleaner.
WOW, that is a lot of stuff for 2 days, when I have to work, kids baseball games...... Oh well, without goals nothing gets done.....
gauge cluster will fit, bent the little tabs on the bottom out a touch, makes them much easier to put back in place.
Pour some gas down the carb and see if it'll fire that way. you should be able to see gas in the bowl quickly while cranking. Did you have gas to the pump?
Then can check past the pump to the carb..
What's nice is the HUGE aquarium on the old carbs.. you can easily see the gas in it.
Pour some gas down the carb and see if it'll fire that way. you should be able to see gas in the bowl quickly while cranking. Did you have gas to the pump?
Then can check past the pump to the carb..
What's nice is the HUGE aquarium on the old carbs.. you can easily see the gas in it.
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For a quick check to see if your pump is working pull the line loose going from pump to carb and crank the motor. If you make a mess of fuel your pump is working (hold a rag over the end so you don't spray fuel everywhere). Shouldn't need to prime, but you can pour some fuel on the upstream side of the pump if you want to try if you' have nothing at the pump.
If you have fuel coming out of pump, take the line going to carb loose at both ends and shoot some compressed air through the tube to make sure it's clear (don't ask me how I know to try this. If I would have thought of that sooner it would have gotten me running days earlier and saved lots of head scratching).
Edit: I'm assuming you are running a stock fuel pump, correct?
If you have fuel coming out of pump, take the line going to carb loose at both ends and shoot some compressed air through the tube to make sure it's clear (don't ask me how I know to try this. If I would have thought of that sooner it would have gotten me running days earlier and saved lots of head scratching).
Edit: I'm assuming you are running a stock fuel pump, correct?
before you blow backwards insure there is not a fuel filter in the way or it wont' be there much longer.
you sure your using the correct line from the tank?
A quick way to check all of this out is to us a secondary tank.
By secondary tank I want to explain that I have taken MANY trial runs in Land Cruisers with "secondary tanks".. Most of the time they involve milk crates as seats and a secondary tank that looks VERY Similar to a red 2 gallon gas can.. When I say similar I mean the same.. One guy or gal is sitting on the milk crate in the passenger area holding the secondary tank and a line into it.. Other guy or gal is Trying like heck to see if this thing really will move under it's own power and stop..
Takes a bit of trust on both parts.. one to make sure you don't blow up. other to make sure you don't go flying off the crate..
Good Job Kelly! you get an Atta boy today.
you sure your using the correct line from the tank?
A quick way to check all of this out is to us a secondary tank.
By secondary tank I want to explain that I have taken MANY trial runs in Land Cruisers with "secondary tanks".. Most of the time they involve milk crates as seats and a secondary tank that looks VERY Similar to a red 2 gallon gas can.. When I say similar I mean the same.. One guy or gal is sitting on the milk crate in the passenger area holding the secondary tank and a line into it.. Other guy or gal is Trying like heck to see if this thing really will move under it's own power and stop..
Takes a bit of trust on both parts.. one to make sure you don't blow up. other to make sure you don't go flying off the crate..
Good Job Kelly! you get an Atta boy today.
2fpower
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- Thread starter
- #490
I spent enough time rebuilding the tank to be comfortable that it is hooked up right. I bent the solid fuel line that goes from the filter all the way back to inside the cab next to the fuel tank, so it is good. I only have about two gallons of fuel in it, but I have not tried to clean out the steel line from the new pump to the carb, so that is on the list tonight.
I do have a boat style fuel tank that I can use if I have issues with fuel coming from the tank. I did use the por 15 tank sealer so, it may have plugged that line up.....
Before I forget, I have all the parts you gave me for the brakes all cleaned up and ready to get back to you for the next mud member worthy of such a prize. On another note, did you say that you have extra remotes for the matrix that you are not using? I want to see if I can get the keyless working on the 80.
I do have a boat style fuel tank that I can use if I have issues with fuel coming from the tank. I did use the por 15 tank sealer so, it may have plugged that line up.....
Before I forget, I have all the parts you gave me for the brakes all cleaned up and ready to get back to you for the next mud member worthy of such a prize. On another note, did you say that you have extra remotes for the matrix that you are not using? I want to see if I can get the keyless working on the 80.
2fpower
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My great friend Rob came by tonight to give this the old college try.... to get it moving for the last day of school. We got a lot done, but came up short.
The exhaust is installed (temporary, Duane to make final exhaust)
The brakes are all in and bled. HUGE thanks to DMaddox for his assistance and his creation of the Geo Metro conversion. Fits awesome, and made my huge issue go away!!
The clutch is bled and working.
That is when we started working on the fuel issue. We quickly traced it back to the tank as the suction tube was definately blocked. We beat on it for two hours and finally got it cleared. After using a suction pump to prime the pump, we finally got fuel to the carb. And she was alive.
So, the new addition to the list is to fix the carb leak at the bowl. I need to read up on how to set the idle, as the bottom butterfly is totally closed now which must not be right. It needs to get some gas and air, so the only thing I can think of is that I set the idle partially with the throttle cable.
Well, we got a lot done, and I am so much closer to driving than I was last week, so all in all, I am happy with the progress.
The exhaust is installed (temporary, Duane to make final exhaust)
The brakes are all in and bled. HUGE thanks to DMaddox for his assistance and his creation of the Geo Metro conversion. Fits awesome, and made my huge issue go away!!
The clutch is bled and working.
That is when we started working on the fuel issue. We quickly traced it back to the tank as the suction tube was definately blocked. We beat on it for two hours and finally got it cleared. After using a suction pump to prime the pump, we finally got fuel to the carb. And she was alive.
So, the new addition to the list is to fix the carb leak at the bowl. I need to read up on how to set the idle, as the bottom butterfly is totally closed now which must not be right. It needs to get some gas and air, so the only thing I can think of is that I set the idle partially with the throttle cable.
Well, we got a lot done, and I am so much closer to driving than I was last week, so all in all, I am happy with the progress.
dang and I just took 2 days to get my headlights to work.. your spanking me.. good job! does it move yet?
2fpower
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She's alive, alive!!!
Yep, loaded up the kids and the wife and took it out for a spin on Memorial day. Pics are on another camera, so they will come.
I want to take this time to thank everyone that was part of this huge transformation. In no order, thanks to Rob, Erik, Sage, Colin, Jason, David, Andy, Poser, Mark, Steve, Kyle, Josh, Anna, Lael, and of course Duane for pushing me this way. I also need to thank everyone in the Mud community for answering questions, and helping me get to this point.
With that said, it is back to reality.... I found a leak in the clutch master (some paint got crinkly) so I need to find a rebuild kit or replace the master. The only thing is that I don't know what year this one came out of. Likely the 75' or 74' parts rig, but Toyota shows different rebuild kits for these. If I find a picture, does anyone know how to identify these?
Next is seatbelts and rollbar, as the rollbar did not seem to fit quite right. This car originally did not come with a rollbar, so I am thinking they were different back in 68' as the 75' rollbar is listing. I may just cut the welds and put it where I want it, then add the tabs for the seatbelts.
Yep, loaded up the kids and the wife and took it out for a spin on Memorial day. Pics are on another camera, so they will come.
I want to take this time to thank everyone that was part of this huge transformation. In no order, thanks to Rob, Erik, Sage, Colin, Jason, David, Andy, Poser, Mark, Steve, Kyle, Josh, Anna, Lael, and of course Duane for pushing me this way. I also need to thank everyone in the Mud community for answering questions, and helping me get to this point.
With that said, it is back to reality.... I found a leak in the clutch master (some paint got crinkly) so I need to find a rebuild kit or replace the master. The only thing is that I don't know what year this one came out of. Likely the 75' or 74' parts rig, but Toyota shows different rebuild kits for these. If I find a picture, does anyone know how to identify these?
Next is seatbelts and rollbar, as the rollbar did not seem to fit quite right. This car originally did not come with a rollbar, so I am thinking they were different back in 68' as the 75' rollbar is listing. I may just cut the welds and put it where I want it, then add the tabs for the seatbelts.
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I"ve got a new 76ish clutch master in the garage, requires a different hard line
yours has the weird fittings most of us upgrade out of. Personally i'd look at like rockauto and see if they have 70-75ish clutch master and slave and new flex line and upgrade out of what you have with the weird fittings. if you get those 3 parts you can use an off the shelf hard line and will save you headaches later. problem is more it leaks the more it might damage your paint.
yours has the weird fittings most of us upgrade out of. Personally i'd look at like rockauto and see if they have 70-75ish clutch master and slave and new flex line and upgrade out of what you have with the weird fittings. if you get those 3 parts you can use an off the shelf hard line and will save you headaches later. problem is more it leaks the more it might damage your paint.
Grats, Kelly! You guys are amazing with these things - 
2fpower
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- #500
Yep, I know about the paint, I pulled it off at first sign of the leak.
Now, this is not the 68' clutch master, with the wierd fittings, it is one from a 74ish. I either pulled it from my 75, that was made in November 74, or the parts car that I can't recall the year on it. I just can't recall what I pulled it from, but i know that I swapped the slave and the master including lines. It does have a 10mm fitting between the hard line and the flex line. Post 492 has a picture of it.... Post 1 has a picture of the old master.
Now, this is not the 68' clutch master, with the wierd fittings, it is one from a 74ish. I either pulled it from my 75, that was made in November 74, or the parts car that I can't recall the year on it. I just can't recall what I pulled it from, but i know that I swapped the slave and the master including lines. It does have a 10mm fitting between the hard line and the flex line. Post 492 has a picture of it.... Post 1 has a picture of the old master.
