difference between the masters is the residual pressure valve. YOu can add an external to hold drums if you want.
Ol' Blue, my 68' fj40 project (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter 2fpower
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YOu get the tub mounted yet? Just curious..
Nice work. on the first couple of pics were you are sandblasting the frame. you got that from harbor freight? I'm looking for one to do my frame restoration. does it works good?
2fpower
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- #206
Good yes. But typical Harbor freight quality. I would get the extended warranty.
Here are the weaknesses. At the bottom of the pot, where the sand comes out, the rubber hose starts very quickly, instead of having a steel leader where the sand is arching down. The result is that the hose gets sandblasted inside at that point and eventually wears through. Easy enough fix to shorten the hose and move the clamp back, however, after three or four times, you don't have much length left.
The nozzle has a nice hand lever to turn it off and on. Problem is that the spring is so tight, you can't keep it open. Result... you abrade off the closed position while it is half open. Solution take some electrical tape and tape the lever wide open. You can't turn it off, but it does not ruin this. Most of the time, I don't need to shut it down. When I do my final touch up, then I take the tape off
The hood for you to wear is not large enough to really be effective. I bought a couple yards of material at the fabric store and sewed them on to make a larger hood that is kind of like a shirt.
The visiable plexiglass abrades fast. I used some old clear plastic used for overhead projectors and taped them on top of that piece of material, then replace it every so often. I also found that the harbor freight safety visor (like a welding mask, but clear) can fit under the hood, so I use it, and it's plastic front covered with my plastic. This allows me to use my resperator under the hood comfortably.
Good luck.
Here are the weaknesses. At the bottom of the pot, where the sand comes out, the rubber hose starts very quickly, instead of having a steel leader where the sand is arching down. The result is that the hose gets sandblasted inside at that point and eventually wears through. Easy enough fix to shorten the hose and move the clamp back, however, after three or four times, you don't have much length left.
The nozzle has a nice hand lever to turn it off and on. Problem is that the spring is so tight, you can't keep it open. Result... you abrade off the closed position while it is half open. Solution take some electrical tape and tape the lever wide open. You can't turn it off, but it does not ruin this. Most of the time, I don't need to shut it down. When I do my final touch up, then I take the tape off
The hood for you to wear is not large enough to really be effective. I bought a couple yards of material at the fabric store and sewed them on to make a larger hood that is kind of like a shirt.
The visiable plexiglass abrades fast. I used some old clear plastic used for overhead projectors and taped them on top of that piece of material, then replace it every so often. I also found that the harbor freight safety visor (like a welding mask, but clear) can fit under the hood, so I use it, and it's plastic front covered with my plastic. This allows me to use my resperator under the hood comfortably.
Good luck.
2fpower
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- Thread starter
- #207
finally some friends came to the shop
I had a visitor to the shop yesterday. A hummingbird floated around the shop for a couple hours. The garage doors were wide open, but he liked my air line as a perch.
ANyway, got pieces blasted and painted, ready to put back together.
Take a look
I had a visitor to the shop yesterday. A hummingbird floated around the shop for a couple hours. The garage doors were wide open, but he liked my air line as a perch.
ANyway, got pieces blasted and painted, ready to put back together.
Take a look
POst # 208, pick #2. Part hanging on the left. Is that the old school oil fill tube from an F engine? Having a hard time recognizing.
Where are we at. It's been a whole day.. You have no excuses.. This thing should be together..
Since you are clearly not going to have this thing together for the TAC event.. I think you need to do what I'm doing.. Sign up for the event, bring a chair and a cooler.. We can talk tech and heckle Chris and Rob into breaking their trucks..
ON a side note.. Took a tech call from a fellow club member last night.. No names to protect the innocent. But this member had just stabbed the tranny together, drove it about 100-150 miles and is now having possible leak of 90 weight coming out the nose of the trans.. Thus requiring extraction of the transmission for replacement of the input seal. So real life situation to the reason you are doing extra work. I believe the above mentioned club member might be coming by this evening for a transmission jack. His pennance will probably be that he will have to hang out for one beer and admire an FJ45 tub sitting in the garage..
Since you are clearly not going to have this thing together for the TAC event.. I think you need to do what I'm doing.. Sign up for the event, bring a chair and a cooler.. We can talk tech and heckle Chris and Rob into breaking their trucks..
ON a side note.. Took a tech call from a fellow club member last night.. No names to protect the innocent. But this member had just stabbed the tranny together, drove it about 100-150 miles and is now having possible leak of 90 weight coming out the nose of the trans.. Thus requiring extraction of the transmission for replacement of the input seal. So real life situation to the reason you are doing extra work. I believe the above mentioned club member might be coming by this evening for a transmission jack. His pennance will probably be that he will have to hang out for one beer and admire an FJ45 tub sitting in the garage..
2fpower
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- #212
Work is sooooo overrated!
I am burning the mignight oil to get all these last minute tax returns done for the 15th of Sept.
I got about 5 min of time in the shop all weekend -- I used weatherstrip adhesive to mount the side cover cork gasket in place.
Yeah....
Bad news is that I only have an October 15 deadline to look forward to next. BUT from Oct 15 to December my schedule is really light... so stay tuned.
Likely will not make the TAC event. If I could figure out a way to go, I would be wanting to be in the garage making progress.
I am burning the mignight oil to get all these last minute tax returns done for the 15th of Sept.
I got about 5 min of time in the shop all weekend -- I used weatherstrip adhesive to mount the side cover cork gasket in place.
Yeah....
Bad news is that I only have an October 15 deadline to look forward to next. BUT from Oct 15 to December my schedule is really light... so stay tuned.
Likely will not make the TAC event. If I could figure out a way to go, I would be wanting to be in the garage making progress.
thanks for the info!!
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FYI Erik,
That "innocent"
club member believes it to be 30 weight after further inspection. Cross fingers that the pan leak was all and not the rear main. Now to just get the clutch working right. That club member is going to pull the clutch hose tonight and see if there is a close match at parts house before coming by your house tonight.
I'll try and dig out the piston your going to be looking for. Hijack over.
hi 2fpower got the blaster today it works great I did my for wheel to get used to it. do you recycle the sand?out quick
2fpower
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- #217
Yep, definately recycle the sand. I blast on a concrete pad, and put up some 4x 8 sheets of osb board leaning against some trash cans or ladders on one side and blast that direction. Sweep it up, run it through a kitchen strainer that I got from walmart to get rid of big pieces. (Metal screen colander) This colander fits right over a 5 gallon bucket so makes it real easy to do.
Remember that using sand is not the best for your lungs with the silica, so use a respirator (not a dust mask).
I reuse the sand a lot. After a while, it does not cut as nice... probably 5 to 8 uses. I still pick it up, and then I use it later in my handheld gravity feed blaster for small pieces. See pic below. Great thing is that for this last use, I just walk to the middle of my yard, blast away on the part on a milk crate. The small part gets blasted fast, my yard gets some needed sand (too much clay around my parts) and there is no clean up.
I found in my area, lowes course masonary sand is best. I have heard time and time again that people like play sand. I find that here in KC, it is full of big pieces of sand that plug up the blaster. So I have to strain out a good 1/5 of the bag. PITA.
Hope that helps. If I find some pics of my "blast area" I will post them up.
Oh, if it helps, I keep a scratch awl nearby as most of the plug ups on the tip can be cleared by just pushing the awl up the blast nozzle.
Remember that using sand is not the best for your lungs with the silica, so use a respirator (not a dust mask).
I reuse the sand a lot. After a while, it does not cut as nice... probably 5 to 8 uses. I still pick it up, and then I use it later in my handheld gravity feed blaster for small pieces. See pic below. Great thing is that for this last use, I just walk to the middle of my yard, blast away on the part on a milk crate. The small part gets blasted fast, my yard gets some needed sand (too much clay around my parts) and there is no clean up.
I found in my area, lowes course masonary sand is best. I have heard time and time again that people like play sand. I find that here in KC, it is full of big pieces of sand that plug up the blaster. So I have to strain out a good 1/5 of the bag. PITA.
Hope that helps. If I find some pics of my "blast area" I will post them up.
Oh, if it helps, I keep a scratch awl nearby as most of the plug ups on the tip can be cleared by just pushing the awl up the blast nozzle.
thanks for the tips. I was buying the bag of sand from norton tool for 7$. it's black diamond. how much is the bag course masonary sand at lowes? and to collect the sand I was using a big box but it was not working well 
if you get pics of the of your "blast area" that will be cool to see
I will be goin to wallmart looking for that kitchen strainer
. were can I find a respirator?
if you get pics of the of your "blast area" that will be cool to seeI will be goin to wallmart looking for that kitchen strainer
. were can I find a respirator?
Respirators are avail at most larger home improvement stores or via MSC account. I do recommend full ear protection and a bunny suit while blasting. it sucks to get the sand out of your ears. Bunny suit is what I call the white suits we were here in surgery but most autobody shops wear them while painting.
2fpower
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- #220
Good advice Erik on ear protection. I actually found that my worst enemy was my hair. I would blast for hours not get any sand in my eyes, then take a shower afterwards and sand would come out of my hair and into my eyes. So, my solution is to wear a welding "skull cap" while blasting. Saved a couple trips to the eye doc.
Sand: about 3 bucks for 50 lbs of sand at Lowes -- I have tried to buy bulk at the quarry, course masonry sand (cracked) but once again, there were lots of big chunks to sift out.
Also - hint if your sand is wet, just wait for a sunny day and spread it out on the concrete. Dry's pretty fast.
I use 5 gallon buckets to hold my dry sand... I use a big dustpan to pick it up.
I will try to get pics of the blast area, and of my colander.
For what it is worth, I will keep doing small panels myself, but next full tub or frame is going to the blaster. This takes lots of time... something that has become a commodity
commodity
Sand: about 3 bucks for 50 lbs of sand at Lowes -- I have tried to buy bulk at the quarry, course masonry sand (cracked) but once again, there were lots of big chunks to sift out.
Also - hint if your sand is wet, just wait for a sunny day and spread it out on the concrete. Dry's pretty fast.
I use 5 gallon buckets to hold my dry sand... I use a big dustpan to pick it up.
I will try to get pics of the blast area, and of my colander.
For what it is worth, I will keep doing small panels myself, but next full tub or frame is going to the blaster. This takes lots of time... something that has become a commodity
commodity
