Ol' Blue, my 68' fj40 project (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

start with a question

Shotgun ordered the tapered adapters to use fj40 tie rods to the mini steering arms.... question: should they be sitting out this far below? When I cranked down on them, they did not go any further, and I really could not get to the point the cotter pin would go in the crown nut..... Also pics of the front brakes on.
Picture 5516.webp
Picture 5512.webp
Picture 5520.webp
 
undercoat

Drum role please.......

Undercoating day has come. Can't say enough good things about the raptor liner. Looks great. Exactly what I wanted. Only issue today was that I went to clean up afterward, and was basically out of laquer. So, I decided that a $12 schutz gun would have to be sacrificed.
Picture 5487.webp
Picture 5495.webp
Picture 5497.webp
 
more pics

You may have noticed on the first pic that there was some white paint in stripes... well we sanded too much to prep for undercoat, so I just mixed up some epoxy and brushed it on the places that needed it. This also gave me a chance to get paint in spots that the sprayer had difficulty, like under the edges.
Picture 5488.webp
Picture 5499.webp
Picture 5506.webp
 
pics

more pics of the new main seal in and the side cover off. I have it soaking in marine clean now, for a quick sandblast in the morning. Then off to paint for all these loose parts when my MSC order comes in.
Picture 5501.webp
Picture 5509.webp
Picture 5510.webp
 
Thank you! It really was easy.....

Beer 30 now.
Picture.webp
 
POst # 181 Pic 1.. They should sit flush. Test fit them in your spare knucke arms or mic the top and bottom of the hole in your other arms to compare that nobody has filled and or reamed the arms you have. I can't remember where the last set of those shims i picked up were from but I believe they fit flush. Are they flush at the top of the arm? If so then they might need to be trimmed. Compare the 2 sets of arms, the spare set definately hasn't been messed with as I popped the steering arm out of those myself.
More information is needed..
Undercoating looks awesome.. How's it for UV? Did you use wire tape or just normal tape?
 
interesting.. Top tub is the older one, bottom tub is the 75.. exhaust runs different in the different years. Toyota put a skid plate above the muffler in the 75 to keep heat off the floorboards in the back.

How did you plug the threaded holes? tape or sacrificial bolts?

YOur making some serious headway! GOod job.. Dry time on undercoating? I know you've mentioned this stuff before but not everyone knows the details.
 
Undercoating, I used regular tape, but pulled it off about 30 min after last spray. VERY IMPORTANT, otherwise you need wire tape.

I did not plug the bolt holes. I will just run a tap through them. I already have primer, por 15 on them so figured what was one more thing.

FWIW Another trick I learned was to use expanding foam earplugs.

Flash in 1 hour, it was dry to touch in about 20 min in the sunlight.

Here is stuff from Raptor:

U-POL'S RAPTOR Truck Bed Liner is a 2K paint designed for applying to the rear bed of pick up trucks. The urethane formulation dries rapidly and provides excellent UV protection. Users can control the pot life and drying times by choosing different speeds of U-POL hardeners.
Easy to use: SIMPLY FILL - SHAKE - SHOOT (see instructions below)
• Enough material to re-spray the largest truck beds
• No need to wax after application
• Abrasion and Stain Resistant
• Protects against rust, corrosion salt, damp & extreme temperatures
• Waterproof, flexible, helps deaden sound & vibrations
• Apply with shutz gun, roller or brush to obtain different textures
• Provides excellent adhesion

Mixing Ratio: 3:1 Truck Bed Liner Base: System 20 Standard Hardener

Specification:
Pot life at 68 degrees F / 20 degrees C : 60 minutes
Touch Dry at 68 degrees F / 20 degrees C : <1 hour subject to film build.
Light duty: 2-3 days at 68 degrees F / 20 degrees C.
Regular duty: 5-7 days at 68 degrees F / 20 degrees C.
Coverage: 125 square foot per US Gallon (mixed).

Preparation: U-POLs Truck Bed Liner can be applied to most original manufacturers finishes. The surface should be lightly scuffed, and free from dirt and rust. For best results bare metal should be treated with a suitable etch primer e.g. U-POL ACID#8 (UP0776/ UP0741)
 
ok

POst # 181 Pic 1.. They should sit flush. Test fit them in your spare knucke arms or mic the top and bottom of the hole in your other arms to compare that nobody has filled and or reamed the arms you have. I can't remember where the last set of those shims i picked up were from but I believe they fit flush. Are they flush at the top of the arm? If so then they might need to be trimmed. Compare the 2 sets of arms, the spare set definately hasn't been messed with as I popped the steering arm out of those myself.
More information is needed..
Undercoating looks awesome.. How's it for UV? Did you use wire tape or just normal tape?

They do not hit the top of the taper, so I will pop them out and take a look. Also, I will check part number to make sure I have the right ones. If you remember the arm with the banana part came from Marlin, so I know that the arms are ok. I have a feeling that I have the wrong part. The angles look correct though, so was not sure if I could just trim off the bottom part.
 
Well, went to SOR, and the part looks to be correct, so I sent them an email to see what to do.

k
 
Thanks Erik-

I got this from SOR

I would be more inclined to cut a narrow slot in the insert so it can be installed deeper into the taper on the arm. This will allow the rod end to sit deeper in the taper and you should then be able to install the cotter pin.
Regards,
Paul

BS in my opinion. I think I am off to Oreilly's to get a set of the borg warner "sbo" parts.

Another question oh god of the 40's. I need flex brake lines for the new front axle. I saw napa part number 38878 listed. I picked one up yesterday, they look very short, and appears that they go from the short solid line to a spitter block that you would mount on the frame, thus eliminating the original short hard line that would go to the splitter block. Anyway, with the 4" lift now, I am thinking I need a longer hose. Anyone have a part number for a hose to use?

Looks like the 38878 is to eliminate the hard line that goes from caliper to top middle of backing plate. So, sounds like I should just get a stock style, just longer hose (as I am using the hard line from caliper to backer plate) due to my lift.

I see lots of people routing the brake line to the axle from the backer plate, vs going up to the frame. Is this just to get the line over to the driver side (master side) without having to route the brake line around the frame?

Hmmm. What to do?????
 
Last edited:
I can take pics of what I did. I eliminated the backing plate and went from the hardline on the axle to braided line that goes to the caliper. from the mc I have a hard line going down to a braided line that goes to a T on the axle that splits it to each side.
 
here are those pis. About 6 years ago I got the braided line kit from either SOR or MAF dont rem.
driver side brake line.webp
frame to axle.webp
passenger side brakes.webp
 
Thanks for the pics. That makes sense to me now.

On the line that starts from the T on your axle, does the other end mount somewhere on the body, or just hang up in the air to tie into the hard line?
 
Right now it just hangs there. I need to weld a tombstone on the frame so I can put a clip on the flexline. I ran it for years like that
 
shopping

So, shopping for a master cylinder.... Erik you said...... "otherwise I recommend fj80 or T100 master"

I did end up using the fj60 front calipers, with one small and one large piston on each side. I have rear drums, so what I read said don't go with the fj80 as they had 4 wheel disk. So, in my reseach it says that I should use a 7/8 master cyliner.... so, 87-89 mini trucks & 4runners, and Fj60's used a 7/8" Master,

So question, would the fj60 master, work given your adapter to make it fit with booster?

I think I read that Ed was running disks without a booster. You out there Ed?
 
yes, masters all fit on the boosters. WIll work with adapter.. FJ60, FJ80, FJ40 whatever they'll all work.
You can put GM non-boosted but why?
SO Run 60 series. I might have a core if you need it.. they're worth about $19 according to sage who came and grabbed one.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom