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Shea
I personally wouldn't power wash it. I cover my fuse block, soak the engine in simple green, let set for 15mins and then rise off with warm/hot water at normal/low pressure. There are some good threads on here about it.
Don't power wash it. Get a pair of rubber gloves, rags, toothbrush, brass toothbrush.
Green Simple green etches aluminium. Use Simple Green Extreme Aircraft & Precision Cleaner.
Green Simple green etches aluminium. Use Simple Green Extreme Aircraft & Precision Cleaner.
Last edited:
2001LC
SILVER Star
Engine wash
I also pull undercarriage shielding and go to town.
The very first think I do is pull all shield (engine cover and #1 & #2 undercarriage), then take lots of picture.
Use baking soda on battery before washing it or area around battery.
Watch out for drive belt. Also idler and tension pulley bearings, if the are marginal now, they be bad if high pressure water get in.
Aluminum foil and plastic bags work well to protect sensitive area. A must if you pull air intake tube to cover holes (Air box, T-body & vacuum lines) to get at PS head cover.
Don't get to much water under intake into engine valley, as starter sit in there. Older starters the seals are shot and waters not great for it. There are drain holes at back of valley so water will slowly drain out, so park with front slightly high.
Engine should not be hot.
I also pull undercarriage shielding and go to town.
The very first think I do is pull all shield (engine cover and #1 & #2 undercarriage), then take lots of picture.
Use baking soda on battery before washing it or area around battery.
Watch out for drive belt. Also idler and tension pulley bearings, if the are marginal now, they be bad if high pressure water get in.
Aluminum foil and plastic bags work well to protect sensitive area. A must if you pull air intake tube to cover holes (Air box, T-body & vacuum lines) to get at PS head cover.
Don't get to much water under intake into engine valley, as starter sit in there. Older starters the seals are shot and waters not great for it. There are drain holes at back of valley so water will slowly drain out, so park with front slightly high.
Engine should not be hot.
Coming from the top of the engine compartment on a new rig I might be inclined to use the lowest pressure washer setting at a safe distance, but I would not use pressure on a 10yr+ old truck.
The connectors get brittle, and rubber inserts on the back of connectors may not be as watertight as they were when new- allowing moisture to get in. Just have to be super careful.
As for chemicals, I've been using MrClean Non-diluted for years to clean engines, plastics, and as a general degreaser. Different than simple green as it doesn't cloud anodized or aluminum surfaces. Use a spray bottle to apply, and use the gentle spray-fan setting on your garden hose gun. Stay away from belts, alternator, fuse box. Leaves clean shiny surface on plastics and rubber (disinfected and smells nice too
).
The connectors get brittle, and rubber inserts on the back of connectors may not be as watertight as they were when new- allowing moisture to get in. Just have to be super careful.
As for chemicals, I've been using MrClean Non-diluted for years to clean engines, plastics, and as a general degreaser. Different than simple green as it doesn't cloud anodized or aluminum surfaces. Use a spray bottle to apply, and use the gentle spray-fan setting on your garden hose gun. Stay away from belts, alternator, fuse box. Leaves clean shiny surface on plastics and rubber (disinfected and smells nice too
).
