oil pan man (1 Viewer)

[cruiser_guy]

what size do you go with Wayne?

AXT uses 1/2" and I also used 1/2" on my daughters FJ55/3B turbo which is a Volvo turbo. The supply on the other hand is only 1/4" or so on both.

 

[crushers]

agreed, i run 1/2" ID return line... this was recommended to me by the turbo shop...

 

[brownbear]

So Brownbear, we are mounting a turbo to each our 3B on the same weekend. That is kind of cool. I am some hours ahead of you due to my timezone

Good luck!

oh I've been at it for a while.......so I most likely have had 3b turbo installing weekends with many by now..


I got two things left. a intake pipe. made, just have to put on a flange and weld it up, as well I got to weld the scully on.....

I should have the turbo done this weekend, then I can get back to the body panels. there is never enuf time in the day. And when you work as a mechanic during the day its hard to jump into it at night. But these are excuses eh?

ya the law of scavenge lines should be double the pressure line. To make up for expansion. as well as pressure drop across the bearing......

 

[uebercruiser]

where'd you get your turbo brownbear?

 

[brownbear]

at the autowrecker in town.

 

[brownbear]

started by drilling a 1 inch hole. then placed the already tightened scully with jic .5 inch elbow.

tacked into place and finished welding. ignore the welds. I am new to the world of welding. But it is fun......

 

[brownbear]

heres the inside of the pan, welded inside as well,

then whole pan cleaned with marine clean/metal ready and POR-15'd.
gotta love that stuff.

 

[brownbear]

then I started making the turbo to intake pipe. I used 1.5 inch pipe, stretched to bigger size, then an intermediate size, ending at 2.25 inch, that same size as the intake.

as well I made a steel flange to weld the pipe too. the one that mounts to the turbo. Not easy when its this style of turbo.

next I will weld a fitting to the pipe for the boost gauge. Also the pipe will get ground smooth and painted with POR...

That was as much as I wanted to do this sunday......

 

[crushers]

looks like it should work just fine.
i find it amazing with the amount of turbo's being installed this month...

 

[Vegard]

Looks good! What kind of turbo are you using? What car did it come off?

 

[bigbrowndog]

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/3B-LANDCRUISER-TURBO_W0QQitemZ4579498488QQcategoryZ10428QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[silvercrusher]

I think your welds look pretty good for a newbie. I'm no pro , mine always look like bubble gum and hold quite well. I am quite envious of all you turbo going buggers. Keep the pics coming, so many great ideas are formed here!
Above all keep it fun

Cheers
Challis

 

[brownbear]

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/3B-LANDCRUISER-TURBO_W0QQitemZ4579498488QQcategoryZ10428QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

thats a rough looking turbo? from an unkown kit......suspicious indeed.

 

[brownbear]

I think your welds look pretty good for a newbie. I'm no pro , mine always look like bubble gum and hold quite well. I am quite envious of all you turbo going buggers. Keep the pics coming, so many great ideas are formed here!
Above all keep it fun

Cheers
Challis

thanks, I just bought the mig welder, got a bottle, and started practicing. lots of sheetmetal practice. I solder a lot on wires, I try to think it is similar, which it is not, but it feels the same, flowing the puddle. I am intimate when I solder wires........

When I get all wrapped up I will do a turbo write up. Its not as hard as it may seem. But definately not quick. A kit is quick. doing it yourself is many trips to the store. and time consuming trying to figure out the best way,

Also picking a turbo takes some time. Especially when you only have one wreaker and they are set on their price.

hope like hell it spools nicely, lol! if not I will still drive it, some is better than none.

 

[animas]

I would check the condition of the oil pan. Many of the '60 series oil pans are getting thin due to rust etc. I replaced mine about 2 years ago since it was weeping THROUGH the pan. Same thing is happening with my daughters truck right now.
If you've cleaned the pan prior to working on it (probably), you might have cleaned off the last layer that seals it!

 

[animas]

yup PRC is the bomb. I buy the sim kits for my plane. Mix up the tube and spread. PRC took man to the moon. #1 aerospace sealent out there.

But I DO NOT have a leaky pan, thanks for tip though. Cruiser guy is saying IF.

I think after using POR-15 it would make a tank non porous and very strong. That stuff is awesome. I am going to paint the outside of my pan with it before re-install.

I had too many oil leaks to have rust, LOL! some of the bolts were finger tight. wonder if the vibration loosened them over time??

didn't have any leaks in my oil pan but when I got it off I noticed there are some bare spots up near the gasket(smallish, maybe 1/2 in. square) Where the paint has been worn off probably by scraping gaskets. Don't know how critical it is to recoat them and with what? I'm concerned about more of the existing coating peeling off and getting down into the oil. Any-one have any insight in this matter, I'd sure appreciate it.

 

[RufusTheDufus]

One thing I haven't seen mentioned in this thread is the issue that some turbos require a oil restriction orifice inline with the oil inlet. I think it's mostly the older Garrett journal bearing turbos but I'm not sure. I'm putting a T3 on my 3B now (.42 compressor and turbine) and it requires a .065" restrictor so oil pressure doesn't blow out the turbo seals.

edited to add: sorry to bump up this old thread. It showed up in my alerts here as new/updated for some reason

 

[gerg]

I've ran several old Garrett T3 turbos without an additional restrictor over the years and I've never pushed oil. Journal bearings handle extra oil pressure much better than a BB turbo. It's always confused me a bit as I don't think it's the pressure that's the issue but it's a way manufacturers can limit the actual oil volume being delivered. I'm guessing on that. Different turbos give a specific volume of oil return at certain pessures to indicate it's recieving adequate oil flow, too much flow and it will back up on the center section and begin to pressurize it. You can't measure the oil flow easily from your feed line but you can measure it's pressure and volume of oil return out of the turbo itself. I always keep in mind our engines are old and don't usually suffer high oil pressure. It's usually on the low side. My 2c.
g

 

[animas]

wow, that would be thin.

I don't have rust issues on my pan, and the coating inside is perfect. won't be after I weld. But I do no how to control my heat(damp rag, slow welding) also it will be only a seal weld, not a huge penetration weld.


I will see what a gasket goes for.......

but I got lots of sealent. just don't think it will come off easy with sealent in the future.

 

[animas]

yup PRC is the bomb. I buy the sim kits for my plane. Mix up the tube and spread. PRC took man to the moon. #1 aerospace sealent out there.

But I DO NOT have a leaky pan, thanks for tip though. Cruiser guy is saying IF.

I think after using POR-15 it would make a tank non porous and very strong. That stuff is awesome. I am going to paint the outside of my pan with it before re-install.

I had too many oil leaks to have rust, LOL! some of the bolts were finger tight. wonder if the vibration loosened them over time??

can anyone tell me how important the coating on the inside of the oil pan is. my oilpan got a dent in it resulting from smack by the tie rod.
I can braze the crack but the coating on the inside has flaked off. Is there a repair material for this.