oil pan man (1 Viewer)

brownbear

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Ok, gotta q for the "perts" amongst us.

I have my oil pan off right now, getting ready to weld my NPT fitting to the pan for my turbo return.

My first Q, is there anything STRONGLY recommened that should be looked at while in there? So far everything looks great with my first boo.

Second Q, what is everyone using for a gasket for re-install. My old gasket is in pieces and is very hardened. Should I buy a yota one? or go the sealent way. I have lots of red RTV high temp.

My turbo install is near complete, but it will take some time to fab a nice looking intake to turbo pipe.

pics upon install will follow........
 

crushers

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from 85 on Toyota used only sealent, no gasket...
i have always been a gasket type of guy but i am slowly changing over.
i would go with a gasket if you can find one and silicone the block side. makes pulling the pan much easier in the future as the gasket stays in place while the pan is off...
cheers
 
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I'm at about the same stage in my turbo-mounting process. I will also use sealant, allthough I think a gasket would have made it a lot easier to remove the pan.

As for the oil dump into the pan, I will use a little pipe thing which I do not know the english name for... I will post a picture this evening (Norwegian time). It does not require welding, and is intended for taking fluids through e.g a oil pan wall. For a gasket I will use the same sealant as I use for the oil pan towards the engine.
 
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I would check the condition of the oil pan. Many of the '60 series oil pans are getting thin due to rust etc. I replaced mine about 2 years ago since it was weeping THROUGH the pan. Same thing is happening with my daughters truck right now.
If you've cleaned the pan prior to working on it (probably), you might have cleaned off the last layer that seals it!
 

brownbear

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cruiser_guy said:
I would check the condition of the oil pan. Many of the '60 series oil pans are getting thin due to rust etc. I replaced mine about 2 years ago since it was weeping THROUGH the pan. Same thing is happening with my daughters truck right now.
If you've cleaned the pan prior to working on it (probably), you might have cleaned off the last layer that seals it!

wow, that would be thin.

I don't have rust issues on my pan, and the coating inside is perfect. won't be after I weld. But I do no how to control my heat(damp rag, slow welding) also it will be only a seal weld, not a huge penetration weld.


I will see what a gasket goes for.......

but I got lots of sealent. just don't think it will come off easy with sealent in the future.
 
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brownbear said:
wow, that would be thin.

I don't have rust issues on my pan, and the coating inside is perfect. won't be after I weld. But I do no how to control my heat(damp rag, slow welding) also it will be only a seal weld, not a huge penetration weld.


I will see what a gasket goes for.......

but I got lots of sealent. just don't think it will come off easy with sealent in the future.
I've seen 3B pans where you can see daylight through!! There were no rust issues with my daughters oil pan when the engine was redone last year either and the coating looked good too. It kind of sneaks up on you!
 
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I used the gasket, they are like 50 bucks, Sealant is just as good though, get the permatex ultra black, that is what the shops use, it is great stuff.
Cruiser guy is right about those pans leaking, my pan has already been fixed once before due to the rust.
 
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Here is what I will use to dump oil to the oil pan. I posted it in the wrong thread at first... getting tired.
 
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You can get a similar fitting to that from toyota for the toyota celica oil return.
The year of celica is 90-92 I think. It is nice and large, about an inch in diameter.
 
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hey Brownbear , my oil pan had a few small holes in it so I put it in the blast cabinet and cleaned it up real good . Cleaned it with MEK and then put the PRC 1440 b to it on the inside where the holes were and then coated the whole outside with it . 3 years later and not a weep . WAY cheaper than a new one from Toyota and the best rust protection available !

PRC....you got to love that s*** man...when I rebuild the 40 this winter every seam is going to be sealed with it !

Daryl
 
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I got this one from a shop selling gear for boats. It is 26 mm in outer diameter, price was around 6$
 

brownbear

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fjbj40 said:
hey Brownbear , my oil pan had a few small holes in it so I put it in the blast cabinet and cleaned it up real good . Cleaned it with MEK and then put the PRC 1440 b to it on the inside where the holes were and then coated the whole outside with it . 3 years later and not a weep . WAY cheaper than a new one from Toyota and the best rust protection available !

PRC....you got to love that s*** man...when I rebuild the 40 this winter every seam is going to be sealed with it !

Daryl
yup PRC is the bomb. I buy the sim kits for my plane. Mix up the tube and spread. PRC took man to the moon. #1 aerospace sealent out there.

But I DO NOT have a leaky pan, thanks for tip though. Cruiser guy is saying IF.

I think after using POR-15 it would make a tank non porous and very strong. That stuff is awesome. I am going to paint the outside of my pan with it before re-install.

I had too many oil leaks to have rust, LOL! some of the bolts were finger tight. wonder if the vibration loosened them over time??
 

brownbear

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Vegard said:
Here is what I will use to dump oil to the oil pan. I posted it in the wrong thread at first... getting tired.

Thanks for the pic. I will post the drain I have once I stick it on.

Mine is a .500 hole, but to weld the scully to the pan requires a 1 inch hole.

I have a .250 px line and .5 return line. I used a JIC fitting with a 45 elbow going into a NPT scully. You shall see hopefully tomorrow. Lets see how productive I am tomorrow. Better not get into any vino tinto........
 
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So Brownbear, we are mounting a turbo to each our 3B on the same weekend. That is kind of cool. I am some hours ahead of you due to my timezone :)

Good luck!
 
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make sure you guys take tons of digital photo's I am not overly knowledgable about turbos, and I would like to do my own junkyard turbo setup sometime in the next year.

Any help would be greatly appricated
 
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Easy return line tip.
Get a sharp tapered punch.
Punch a hole on the side of the sump.
Tap for 1/4NPT (or 3/8 if you prefer) with grease (to control swarf).
Screw in NPT fitting.
No drilling, no mess, no nees to remove sump.
Trick is punching hole to correct depth.
 

crushers

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andrewfarmer said:
Easy return line tip.
Get a sharp tapered punch.
Punch a hole on the side of the sump.
Tap for 1/4NPT (or 3/8 if you prefer) with grease (to control swarf).
Screw in NPT fitting.
No drilling, no mess, no nees to remove sump.
Trick is punching hole to correct depth.
trick is that your oil is returning with NO pressure so a 1/4" hole is no where big enough...
cheers
 

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