Dropped it off at the dealer and quoted $2700. For gasket and spark plug tube gaskets for both sides. Picking it up and will be ordering parts to wrench it up! Looking at videos it looks a lot easier than the valley plate leak I did a few years ago. Thought it would be $1500 job.
Oil on spark plug threads? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter AZBoatHauler
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bloc
SILVER Star
Is that to replace the gaskets at the top or pull the tubes and re-seal them at the bottom?
Gaskets at the top. Then see if that fixes the oil issue if they have to go to the tube seals they estimated $10k. Sounds ridiculous.
bloc
SILVER Star
Per @Taco2Cruiser its usually the base, but it is logical to replace the cheap parts first.
They quoted so high because their entire understanding is the heads need to be replaced. In that context it makes sense.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
To help anyone with the decision if they want to go through the process of resealing the spark plug tubes where the tube is pressed into the head:
To date I‘ve resealed 39x 3URs, and non of them, not one, ever had any drivability issues from oil in the spark plug tube. Now, I will say that I’m not a happy person when a motor leaks, so I get it… Ohhhhh, how I get it. I’m also not a happy person when an electrical connection is submerged in fluid, like where the direct ignition coil connects to the spark plug terminal. On four of them, there was quite a lot of oil in the tube, yet still no drivability issues. So take that for what you will, and hopefully it can help you make the best decision for what you want to do with your 5.7. If you really want to reseal the tubes, I charge significantly less than Toyota (because as @bloc said, to Toyota they only consider replacing the head. I had to make a special tool to do this with the motor still relatively together). Just know that I’m booked out a bit with either expedition guiding or building for the next group I’m taking somewhere.
One thing I would always recommend, especially if you are not going to reseal and are just replacing spark plugs. Please try and suck out any oil that falls into the cylinder. I have a very thin vinyl hose connected to a vacuum source I use (mostly when I work on diesels, yeah know, glow plugs and injectors) and need to reach down into cylinders to suck out any oil/fuel/whatever junk go in there from a failure that bothers me being there. That way when you fire the motor, you’re being easy on the motor. I’m sure some could argue that a few CCs won‘t hurt anything, but I just like to do things the best way possible, and like to share those practices so you can get a lot of life out of your motor. Money is best used to go on an adventure, not repairing things that should have never been broken.
To date I‘ve resealed 39x 3URs, and non of them, not one, ever had any drivability issues from oil in the spark plug tube. Now, I will say that I’m not a happy person when a motor leaks, so I get it… Ohhhhh, how I get it. I’m also not a happy person when an electrical connection is submerged in fluid, like where the direct ignition coil connects to the spark plug terminal. On four of them, there was quite a lot of oil in the tube, yet still no drivability issues. So take that for what you will, and hopefully it can help you make the best decision for what you want to do with your 5.7. If you really want to reseal the tubes, I charge significantly less than Toyota (because as @bloc said, to Toyota they only consider replacing the head. I had to make a special tool to do this with the motor still relatively together). Just know that I’m booked out a bit with either expedition guiding or building for the next group I’m taking somewhere.
One thing I would always recommend, especially if you are not going to reseal and are just replacing spark plugs. Please try and suck out any oil that falls into the cylinder. I have a very thin vinyl hose connected to a vacuum source I use (mostly when I work on diesels, yeah know, glow plugs and injectors) and need to reach down into cylinders to suck out any oil/fuel/whatever junk go in there from a failure that bothers me being there. That way when you fire the motor, you’re being easy on the motor. I’m sure some could argue that a few CCs won‘t hurt anything, but I just like to do things the best way possible, and like to share those practices so you can get a lot of life out of your motor. Money is best used to go on an adventure, not repairing things that should have never been broken.
bloc
SILVER Star
If you haven’t already seen them these work really well for jobs like that. Also pulling old fluid out of the brake master cylinder reservoir past all the baffles.
Amazon product ASIN B098NSB1KT
Not sure how long I've been driving with oil in the spark plug tubes. Last time plugs were changed it was at 100k miles around 2017. Cleaned them out inspected them after a couple hundred miles and there wasn't too much oil in them. No misfire, no codes, and no white smoke. Change the oil and measure how much comes out, and it's not burning oil. Not a mechanic but can diy a lot of issues. What would be some other signs to watch out for? I can pull the coils in 5 mins check the wells to see if there's any oil pooling. Hopefully the gaskets do the job. Wondering if anyone has done engine rebuilds and at how many miles?
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- Thread starter
- #28
Really appreciate you weighing in. Thank you!
- Thread starter
- #29
Did the plugs on the Tundra today - It didn’t want the 200 to be alone. Found oil coating the threads on plug 8. No sign of oil above the threads or on the socket.
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Finally got all the parts together and going to give it a go! Knocked the valley plate leak out a couple of years ago and no issues. This one seems like a much easier job. Dealer wanted $2700, which is a crock of s***! 2011 with 200k miles 5k oil changes and everything looks really good and clean! About 1.5 hours in will wrap it up tomorrow have an ocd issue about making sure things are clean lol!
bloc
SILVER Star
200k with that little varnish means your or the PO's oil choice and change strategy is working great.
Have you owned it from new? Any idea what oil brand & viscosity was used?
Bought it back in 2013 with 30k miles. I've been using Mobil 0w-20 up until recently went to 5w-30 due to age and miles. Will be using Schaeffers 5w-30.
Finished up the driver side. In all about 3.5 hours including cleaning the valve cover and parts. I would expect an experienced shop to knock out the job in 2 hours. How do they come up with est $1350 per a side. It's insane stealing!
Anyone know if the driver side is easier or tougher? I know the air box has to be removed, but other than that anyone know? Thanks in advance.
Anyone know if the driver side is easier or tougher? I know the air box has to be removed, but other than that anyone know? Thanks in advance.
Thought I would add. Found oil in plugs 1 and 2 driver side. I cleaned them out and did not find any oil in plug 1 and no new oil in plug 2. Gaskets were all hard as a rock. Probably could have waited buy glad to have got it done with new gaskets. Will do passenger side this weekend. Went to 5-30 due to age and miles about 500 miles ago. Overall happy with the outcome so far.
or he lives somewhere without cold temps
