Oil in the Intake Manifold

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orikawa

orikawa
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Mar 24, 2007
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www.orikawa.net
You guessed it, i have oil in my intake manifold. Exhaust looks clean as per pictures below. I've pulled plugs since I got it, and they've always looked oily, and now the intake just looks miserable. Where is that coming from??

Valve stem seals? Had the valve cover off today and the seals should come next week, they're getting replaced one way or another, couldnt see if they were cracked. I cant think of another single possibility... there was residual oil at spark plug seats from valve cover coming on and off and doing valve adjustment recently, but the oil cant travel across cylinder into manifold...

Plus I need help on doing the valve stem seals, will do search unless anyones got upfront useful info for that job.
Mud InEx.webp
Mud Intake.webp
Mud Disassembled.webp
 
I'll 3rd the PCV idea. Did you happen to get some compression #'s, or do a leakdown test b4 pulling the head? (think excessive blowby=oil in the intake)
 
How many miles on it? Run a compression check- you may be getting blow-by, in which case it's the rings in one or more cylinders. Ned
 
I got to gather some necessary equipment for the compression tests, and am not pulling the head. Will do compression tests though (havent since i got the truck), and will pick up a vacuum gauge for other tests.

I have NO oil in the air cleaner whatsoever, it's mint condition and recently replaced. Literally there is oil ONLY in the intake manifold, and in the cylinders (all). NOT carb, not air cleaner, not even exhaust (although it always smells rich).


200,000 miles. that's like brand new right? :) I hear this is the mileage things start ?stopping? lol...
 
also, the reason i have these off is because im going to have them milled flat (if necessary, havent measured) and i have two of the same gaskets that go between the intake and exhaust manifolds

Do i double gasket that since theres the diverter plate in there? do i remove the diverter plate for the egr? half of the gasket broke during disassemble...
 
I had the same condition (assuming that it is oil via the PCV which is likely) in my 3FE with a bad #3 cylinder. I ran it for a couple of years with an inline oil/air separater in the PVC line. It collected about a tablespoon or so every oil change.
 
i can definitely see that, and i completely understand pcv (know mechanics very well). I have oil in every cylinder, every intake runner... this truck sat for 3 years without starting... im almost positive my valve stem seals are trashed.

Whats the easiest way to do the valve stem seals with the head on?
 
Do-able, just a PITA. Do you have an air compressor?
 
yea i have an air compressor, fill the cylinders when i do the valves to keep them up? I'll have the intake and exhaust manifolds off of the truck while i do this so i should be able to keep them from falling in via my in-ex runners. lmk what the best way to do these are... thanks
 
I sent the exhaust and intake manifolds off to the machine shop on monday, they called today saying they couldnt do any work on them because the exhaust manifold "swivels" on the #1 cyl and #6 cyl runners... it's true, they do swivel, but is this manifold different or "special". He's done a number of 2F manifolds, but says hes only seen one other like this one.

WTF should i do? they're warped badly aka no double gasket possible, weld that exhaust together,lol? anyone had that problem trying to get them milled flat?
 
He's done a number of 2F manifolds, but says hes only seen one other like this one.

I'm thinking the number is small. I believe all 60's have the independent pieces for #1 and #6.

I'm interested in the answers you get on this. I'm chasing a possible intake leak and am pulling my manifolds today to inspect the intake for cracks and possibly have the intake/exhaust milled. Never thought how problematic the independent ends on the exhaust might be.... hopefully it's a non-issue.

Good luck!
Butt
 
talked to the machine shop today:

no dice on welding them stationary... it's an iron manifold and their welding guy would be hard pressed to do that sort of cast iron welding and guarantee it

clamping, holding, JB welding was a no go for them. milling the ends like that would be too traumatic on those type of things, could cause slip and shart everything up.

I'm in the market for a used exhaust manifold now if anyones got one... my only option.
 
Dropped mine at the machine shop today and the machinist didn't flinch. Quoted me $25 to $40 "depending on how much trouble the end pieces are". He didn't think he'd have any problems though. I'll let you know how it goes.
Butt
 
I sent the exhaust and intake manifolds off to the machine shop on monday, they called today saying they couldnt do any work on them because the exhaust manifold "swivels" on the #1 cyl and #6 cyl runners... it's true, they do swivel, but is this manifold different or "special". He's done a number of 2F manifolds, but says hes only seen one other like this one.
All 78-later 2F have the 3pc exh manifold. Not uncommon. Also found on some other inline 5 & 6 cylinder engines.

WTF should i do? they're warped badly aka no double gasket possible, weld that exhaust together,lol?
Get a competent machine shop to do the work.
 
i'll make some calls, thanks. they probably just dont have the fittings for the ends? we'll see...

NEED a machine shop that does these in Phoenix. S & S Machine in Mesa cant do it (recommended from another thread). I'm starting my calls but if anyone already knows a good shop, I'm all ears. thanks
 
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