Oil Filters
- Thread starter Jonathan_Ferguson
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I've read that page before, the problem with it is that it's now 10 years old, and to me that means it's obsolete and of little value. Every one of those filters could have changed design & construction since then.
All I can add to this.................stay away from filters made in Korea:whoops:
I apologize in advance for this.......but I can't believe this is really a serious discussion that belongs in this forum.
really??! oil filters???
To tell you the truth, I've never even heard anyone debate this. I think if you're seriously worried about this discussion, you have way too much time on your hands. I'm with Jukelemon here, everyone around me just uses frams or STP's and it seems like everyone has over 200,000 these days as all the good toyota's are getting old.
you probably have a better chance of a leaking head gasket or a timing chain breaking ruining your engine before a "bad" oil filter kills it...........sheesh...........
really??! oil filters???
To tell you the truth, I've never even heard anyone debate this. I think if you're seriously worried about this discussion, you have way too much time on your hands. I'm with Jukelemon here, everyone around me just uses frams or STP's and it seems like everyone has over 200,000 these days as all the good toyota's are getting old.
you probably have a better chance of a leaking head gasket or a timing chain breaking ruining your engine before a "bad" oil filter kills it...........sheesh...........
Actually, I *do* think this is an important topic, certainly enough to have a thread about it. How else are people gonna learn that A) FRAM filters SUCK, and B) they cost more than OEM filters.
Its not up to you what is a topic in tech or not.
I have had filters almost blow my motor in other engines...................so it is quite relevant
I have had filters almost blow my motor in other engines...................so it is quite relevant
This is a topic that has been discussed in probably every group here at MUD, and on other forums as well. I remember a very heavy thread many years ago at off-road.com. This is not the first time it's come up here in mini-truck. Maybe you think it's trivial, but from some of the posts here others don't agree.
lol........ha about that wolfs head
wow.........put the guns down, it's just my opinion.................... I'd hate to even ask about motor oil.............
wow.........
Actually, it's engine oil. Geez, how about we talk about oil additives? That should get folks going.
hea.....................how big is that heater hose again?
For the record, I didnt say or want to imply that this thread was trivial. Just that I, perosnally, have yet to see a real world example, in mass, of it actually making a difference.
As I have mentioned before, I dont care what people do with their trucks as long as it is safe and does not affect any other motorist. I was giving the board sh-t about putting a header on the 22re ( : But I would never criticize anyone for doing it.
Point being, all topics, unless personal or WAY off base, can live here. It is, after all, a "public" forum.
As I have mentioned before, I dont care what people do with their trucks as long as it is safe and does not affect any other motorist. I was giving the board sh-t about putting a header on the 22re ( : But I would never criticize anyone for doing it.
Point being, all topics, unless personal or WAY off base, can live here. It is, after all, a "public" forum.
Maybe they do make a difference. My brother's '79 2WD pickup, which I now own, has over 220k miles and has always had Fram oil filters. We just changed the oil and filter every 3k or so miles. Sofar the only engine service was to replace the front oil seal.
She still runs smooth and quiet. No valve chatter or timing chain slap.
Frams may look like junk inside, but it's how they work in the environment they are used in that counts. Anybody have good data on actual filtering abilities?
The filter hacking guy lost my respect when he dissed the rubber for not being flexible at cold temps. What's the operating temperature of the filter in a car? How hot is it? When a car runs the oil gets hot. Even when it is very cold out. The valve will mold it's self properly to the seat due to that high temperature. When it cools it is still properly molded to the seat. Who cares if it loses flexibility when the finally gets down to 0.
The filter hacking guy lost my respect when he dissed the rubber for not being flexible at cold temps. What's the operating temperature of the filter in a car? How hot is it? When a car runs the oil gets hot. Even when it is very cold out. The valve will mold it's self properly to the seat due to that high temperature. When it cools it is still properly molded to the seat. Who cares if it loses flexibility when the finally gets down to 0.
PL10241
...and a can of restore every 3,000...If it's cool-aid, sorry. YRMV
...and a can of restore every 3,000...If it's cool-aid, sorry. YRMV
OEM or Wix only on my junk
I get the V8 filter for my 5vz runner, they are made in Thailand.
IIRC the R series filter is made in the US.
I get the V8 filter for my 5vz runner, they are made in Thailand.
IIRC the R series filter is made in the US.
Well... here's the flaw in your thinking.
The "valve" you're talking about is the Anti-Drainback valve. It's a rubber ring that sits just below the threaded flange at the base of the filter, it has a "lip" on it that covers the holes where the oil enters the filter, so that when the engine shuts off, the filter stays full of oil. When the engine is started later, if the filter is empty, there may be some time before fresh oil gets to the upper end of the engine because the oil pump has to re-fill the filter first. This oil-starved time (although short-lived) is when most engine wear occurs. On a 22RE for instance, it is very noticeable when this is happening, the timing chain tensioner can't take up the chain slack and the valve train makes a nasty clatter. Some people have even gone so far as installing electric pre-oiling pumps on their engines to get the pressure built up before starting the engine.
Now, true when the oil is hot, the rubber valve is very pliable and can seal well as soon as the engine shuts off. BUT, what about a few hours later when the engine has cooled back down? The rubber valve will go back to it's original shape and stiffness, and if it's a poorly made valve, it can't seal the holes, and the filter drains.
When I cut that Fram filter open a few years ago, I found that the anti-drainback valve was actually slightly too small, it didn't totally cover all the holes in the filter, there is NO WAY it could function properly.
I also found that, of all the other filters we cut open at the time, about 12 of them, that the Fram was the only one that had flimsy paper endcaps glued to the edges of the pleated/folder filter material. Further, they didn't apply enough adhesive to fully cover all the edges of the pleats, allowing unfiltered oil to go right thru the filter.
Others may say "well I've been using them for X years and XXX thousands of miles without any problems", and they're probably correct. But is it worth the risk? Especially on a filter that now costs MORE than a good Toyota OEM filter? I don't think so.