Anyone done this? Curious about doing this to relocate to the engine bay, not have to take off belly panels for oil changes and be able to use a standard thread on type oil filter. If I'm missing the existing thread please whistle me on to that bird.
Oil filter relocation/bypass?
- Thread starter kdubbya
- Start date
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IMO, not even worth a consideration. a) with a 20v gun the panel is off in less than 30 seconds and b) what you're describing is adding failure points and very likely flow restriction to a very well proven system. I takes me maybe 20 minutes to do an oil change and that happens 3x per year.
There has been an IH8MUD member who has done filter relocation with some dual filter setup, also planning to extend oil changed intervals to like 15 or 20 k miles... Not sure he actually did the later, however the seller of that aftermarket filter setup makes claims around that...
My view based on being a Mechanical Engineer trying to apply some logic, while not claiming to be all knowledgeable either (in this case a Toyota 3UR-FE engine designer is who we really need...):
- Changing the oil filter setup has the inherent potential of changing the initial engine start up lubrication and speed at which the engine builds oil pressure
- It may change the pressure while running
- While it may filter out more fine particles (I would say the Toyota 3UR-FE engine does not need this...), oil change interval is primarily required around maintaining oil viscosity properties and additives keeping the engine clean and friction/wear down - a dual filter system obviously does not fix that so the extended change interval makes little sense
- It adds leak/failure points although properly installed maybe fine, however what after 10 or 15y of owner ship and degradation of the hoses...
All in all a lot of unknowns and a big thumbs down if you ask me.
Just get some good yet not to expensive ramps (e.g. pittsburgh at Harbor Feight) and some electrical tool if you wish to remove the skid plate (to be honest the few bolts is not a big deal with a wrench and prevents cross threading) and the right oil filter adaptor. Also get Toyota OEM oil filters at the dealer direct (they are cheap and at the dealer OEM) and bob's your uncle...
Project Farm tested these to distruction and they are pretty good for the money
This is topnotch and works great so on longer term ownership the way to go IMO
My view based on being a Mechanical Engineer trying to apply some logic, while not claiming to be all knowledgeable either (in this case a Toyota 3UR-FE engine designer is who we really need...):
- Changing the oil filter setup has the inherent potential of changing the initial engine start up lubrication and speed at which the engine builds oil pressure
- It may change the pressure while running
- While it may filter out more fine particles (I would say the Toyota 3UR-FE engine does not need this...), oil change interval is primarily required around maintaining oil viscosity properties and additives keeping the engine clean and friction/wear down - a dual filter system obviously does not fix that so the extended change interval makes little sense
- It adds leak/failure points although properly installed maybe fine, however what after 10 or 15y of owner ship and degradation of the hoses...
All in all a lot of unknowns and a big thumbs down if you ask me.
Just get some good yet not to expensive ramps (e.g. pittsburgh at Harbor Feight) and some electrical tool if you wish to remove the skid plate (to be honest the few bolts is not a big deal with a wrench and prevents cross threading) and the right oil filter adaptor. Also get Toyota OEM oil filters at the dealer direct (they are cheap and at the dealer OEM) and bob's your uncle...
Project Farm tested these to distruction and they are pretty good for the money
This is topnotch and works great so on longer term ownership the way to go IMO
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Very well said.
I also bet removing a canister filter from up inside the engine compartment would make a huge mess that would be a PITA to clean up.
After a couple of decades of going to the Toyota Quick Lube for oil changes I started doing my own again. Yeah getting the panel off initially was a PITA (i.e. there is an initial learning curve) but once that was learned along with installing a Jowet housing with a Stahlbus plug, oil changes are not a big deal. I did not even need a ramp. My only regret is not buying a Stahlbus plug for the shop to install on my Tacoma when it went in for the 60k service.
Dropping the OEM front skid is annoying. I’ll give you that. My aftermarket front skid has a service hole, which makes that more convenient. Otherwise yeah, the portable impact is your friend.
I got the screw on valve drainer thing $30. Put one of those ez drain lever valves on the oil pan. Pretty low friction now.
With the 35s and AHC hi no need to use ramps.
I got the screw on valve drainer thing $30. Put one of those ez drain lever valves on the oil pan. Pretty low friction now.
With the 35s and AHC hi no need to use ramps.
@kdubbya I appreciate your wanting to get an oil filter setup with (I’m assuming) bypass filter setup to get the ultra fine particulate contaminants screened out of the oil. I saw a video recently on YT with a guy running a custom oil filter setup that had a ONE micron bypass filter! His diesel engine had around 800k and the bearings looked amazing.
In our use case, I don’t know that the juice is worth the squeeze for all the reasons mentioned above.
In our use case, I don’t know that the juice is worth the squeeze for all the reasons mentioned above.
Seems soot in diesel engines are a consideration in the filter setup. While they cannot filter out all soot particle sizes, part of the particle size distribution will (the bigger particles…). Why you see more extensive filter setups on industrial diesel driven vehicles. However I understand this is irrelevant in a gasoline engine as there is no soot by product nor any meaningful quantities of wear particles. Even initial break in with factory filter and an oil change takes care of that.
By all means hobby away on a different filter setup, however for me on second hand vehicle fitted with one would be a no purchase flag.
Better put your money into tools to facilitate oil changes or put it in wheels, tires, suspension, roof rack, skids etc.
By all means hobby away on a different filter setup, however for me on second hand vehicle fitted with one would be a no purchase flag.
Better put your money into tools to facilitate oil changes or put it in wheels, tires, suspension, roof rack, skids etc.
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Hell All,
I am an absolute newbie to this Forum - just purchased my first Cruiser - 2001 model. I pulled the trigger on this one after a year of looking because of its condition, service history and mileage. It has 130,000 miles on it with oil changes every 2 - 3,000 miles logged on carfax.
First thing - I have zero experience with Land cruisers.
But I have been restoring American classics for 40 years and building motors for about the same length of time. I'm super fortunate to be one of the owners of a manufacturing business which affords me access to CNC machines, and just about every tool and piece of equipment imaginable.
On almost all of my builds I install a dual remote filter setup. Here is why: Bearing clearances range from .0025 to .0035 on most builds. this is a good rule of thumb for crank mains and rods, cam bearings, and Piston to cylinder tolerances tend to be in that same range. The OEM oil filter is a "full flow' type, meaning that when the demand from the oiling system exceeds what the filter can pass (Volume, but measured as pressure differential) a check valve opens and unfiltered oil is circulated through the engine. Most commercially available oil filters are about 85% efficient @ 30 microns. (That's while the check valve is closed). a 30 micron particle is about .0012. Particles of this size that clump together can become embedded in engine bearings and around piston ring lands. Particles like this are also hard on engine oil pumps, and will gradually degrade the pump's performance.
The setup I use relocates the filters to a remote location. On our diesel pickups we put them on the outside of the frame rail. On my hot rod builds, I usually mount them on the inner fender - I have attached a photo of the setup on my GTO. The small filter is a high quality full flow filter with a check valve and the larger filter is a dense media type that has a rating of 99% efficient @ 2 microns. The output of the oil pump is restricted by an orifice at the inlet of that filter, such that 10% of the oil stream is continuously filtered at all times. This setup ensures that my engines are circulating the cleanest oil possible. As a bonus, this setup adds about 2 - 2 1/2 quarts of oil to the system.
We change the small filter every 10,000 miles, and add makeup oil. We also take an oil sample at that time. We monitor wear metals, contaminants, and oil additive elements. We also watch viscosity, fuel dilution, and in the diesels soot.
The hoses we use are air brake hoses designed for commercial and industrial trucks. We have never had one fail.
I am an absolute newbie to this Forum - just purchased my first Cruiser - 2001 model. I pulled the trigger on this one after a year of looking because of its condition, service history and mileage. It has 130,000 miles on it with oil changes every 2 - 3,000 miles logged on carfax.
First thing - I have zero experience with Land cruisers.
But I have been restoring American classics for 40 years and building motors for about the same length of time. I'm super fortunate to be one of the owners of a manufacturing business which affords me access to CNC machines, and just about every tool and piece of equipment imaginable.
On almost all of my builds I install a dual remote filter setup. Here is why: Bearing clearances range from .0025 to .0035 on most builds. this is a good rule of thumb for crank mains and rods, cam bearings, and Piston to cylinder tolerances tend to be in that same range. The OEM oil filter is a "full flow' type, meaning that when the demand from the oiling system exceeds what the filter can pass (Volume, but measured as pressure differential) a check valve opens and unfiltered oil is circulated through the engine. Most commercially available oil filters are about 85% efficient @ 30 microns. (That's while the check valve is closed). a 30 micron particle is about .0012. Particles of this size that clump together can become embedded in engine bearings and around piston ring lands. Particles like this are also hard on engine oil pumps, and will gradually degrade the pump's performance.
The setup I use relocates the filters to a remote location. On our diesel pickups we put them on the outside of the frame rail. On my hot rod builds, I usually mount them on the inner fender - I have attached a photo of the setup on my GTO. The small filter is a high quality full flow filter with a check valve and the larger filter is a dense media type that has a rating of 99% efficient @ 2 microns. The output of the oil pump is restricted by an orifice at the inlet of that filter, such that 10% of the oil stream is continuously filtered at all times. This setup ensures that my engines are circulating the cleanest oil possible. As a bonus, this setup adds about 2 - 2 1/2 quarts of oil to the system.
We change the small filter every 10,000 miles, and add makeup oil. We also take an oil sample at that time. We monitor wear metals, contaminants, and oil additive elements. We also watch viscosity, fuel dilution, and in the diesels soot.
The hoses we use are air brake hoses designed for commercial and industrial trucks. We have never had one fail.
Try going for a longer cycle option like AMSOIL
